bootsmt

Ra[ph's Sewing Center in Denver, Co. can help you.

I have moved to Chama, New Mexico. Same contact info. For all the people who have looked at the western boot class thread you can find many more makers who teach classes just go to dimlights.com and on the left listing content you will find custom makers who teach. One thing I feel is important when you do take a class do what the instructor tells you. It doesn't matter your experience is with leather or what you know or don't know You can experiment after you learn how to make the boots. Bootsmt

Rubber cement. You can use Elmer's rubber cement or order professional rubber cement from tandy or some other finders. It rubs off with your finger if the is some kind of finish on the leather. Just place it on the edges of the pocket. place it on when still wet and let dry and press. Use a little more than a light coat.

You need to sand the flaky stuff off. It doesn't look like you have good leather from the photo. You want a solid leather . After you sand off the fleshy stuff case the leather ( soak it in tepid water until completely wet) and wrap it in a paper bag then sit over night. Next day when it is just damp hammer it lightly to firm it a bit. When dry place your holes about 1/4" apart or slightly shorter come out about 1/2 way through the outside edge. I like to start about 3/8" back from the edge when I start my holes. If the leather keeps ripping then watch how you are placing the SHARP awl into the leather and if that is correct then you may need better leather. Bootsmt

Barnsley company is not closed. Tools still available, maybe not all.

It is up to you. Consult with your boot maker

Use unfinished lining leather,it should be soft and feel fluffier( for lack of a better term ) than the outer leather. Top leather should never be heavier than the vamps. 3 to 4 oz chrome tanned lining , I use what is called cream cow made to use for vamp lining, works well and absorbs moisture. Just make sure you use a good veg tan insole leather. The heavier the outside leather the warmer the boots. As far as no glue between the lining and the the outer leather I was referring to the vamps. Good luck. Frank

There is no glue between the outer leather and the lining leather. I just read more of your post and saw that a boot maker is making the boots. Why are you not letting him or her tell you how the boots are put together and recommend what leathers to use? I would not be happy having a customer come to me and tell me they will decide what leather I am suppose to use since they have no idea how to build a pair of boots. If he gave you choices and recommendations then I think it might be appropriate for some research. Do you trust this person to do a correct job? If you do then let him or her do their job. The tops should never be made with thicker leather than the bottoms. The boot maker should have the sources for the correct leather and thickness. Frank

Mike I would not use veg tan lining, I use chrome tan. If the person wearing the shoes is allergic to chrome tan then you could use the veg tan or synthetic lining. Chrome tan will wear longer. I prefer 3 to 4 ounce. bootsmt

The thread may not be picked up from the needle. Even though th thickness may be equal it is not a smooth surface. You might try a larger needle. If that works then you will know. Bootsmt

Am in El Prado,New Mexico just 2 miles north of downtown Taos. Am only having 4 week classes. For info call 406-260-1179 or email frankenglishcustomboots@yahoo.com Frank aka bootsmt

You can call Ralph's sewing machine company and ask for help or any of the other repair companies you can find. Sorry I don't have Ralph's number, am at the library. You can find them on the net. I have 2 31-15s nice machines.

Naomi you can use a heel pry and a hammer to remove the plates. Work the pry under an edge of the plate and tap with the hammer towards the center and pry the plate up as you go. shouldn't take long. Fill the holes with woood pegs and sand the last bottom as you wish. Frank English

I was unaware that Mr. Leary had posted and was told by someone about his posts, the one above and I think there is another somewhere about me. I discontinued Mr. Leary's boot class because of certain behavior problems. He also has received his tools that were ordered. If someone is going to take my class then he should conduct himself in a professional manner. I am not hiding from anyone . I removed my information because I have not made a donation to this site and also because of certain persons allowed to acuse me of things that are not true or backed up by facts. I can be found if someone wants to find me. Still in Montana at my original shop in Bozeman.

Type in bulldog pliers in your rearch. You can call Hale and Comoany or Carl Chappell.

The reason why Barnsley tools are higher priced is because the materials used to make the grade of steel they use have increased quite a bit and are not always readily available at previous prices. There are only a couple mills still producing the metal the tools require. You want quality reliable tools? No matter what product you buy today if it is well made it will cost more. If you want to buy cheap then eventially the quality items will no longer be available. As far as Hale and Company's web site : It is taking Mr. Hale a Long time to get his site complete since he had to learn code and such on his own to get his site the way he wants it to make it easy for people to go through. You want tools just call him and ask. The quality of the tools are the same as the old stock. Frank

NO I can't make out the name. It is Probably the makers company name. The tool is called a glazing Iron. It is used to put a finishing wax on just built boots on the soles between the ball and heel, also on the exposed heel edges.You can also refinish used boots. You don't use it on upper leathers. Frank

The picture you call no.1 is used for rubbing finishing wax into the leather soles, heels and edges on shoes and boots. It is heated to the point it will melt the wax and you rub it over and over until the wax is no longer a liquid and is is now in the leather. You would then buff it with you finishing wheels. If you want to know more about the tools anf their purpose there is a book you can buy that has the information. The author last name is Solomon and the book is called Leather Tools from the 1700"s to 1950 ? Can't remember the exact name right now. Glue must be catching up with me. You can find it at your finders or at Hale and Company 805-680-8002. Can't tell what the other tool is because the picture is out of focus. Frank

I have bought from them and had no problems. I have their number. 312-823-9056, this is Eric Frank's number-- he is a sales rep. Frank English c

Sorry I don't have a camera handy. If you drew a staight line on paper and at the point where you would have a corner, round or 90 degrees, etc., you would draw an arc and then you would would continue to the next point you have a corner. I will make these arcs a little longer than I want, If you make them exact as you sew the edges together you could come up short or long , and just with my fingers hold it to the edge of the bag working my way to and around the corners to adjust my arcs( length or height). Thiese arcs relieve some stress of shaping the gusset to the bag's corners. Try using some scrap to sew together and you will see what I am trying to describe. If I can get a camera I will post a picture. Frank

Has anyone ever tried contouring the edge of the gusset where it meets the curve or corner of the bag? It worked for me. It is like a curved bump out. You would still glue and perforate your holes. Frank

I am no longer offering 12 week classes, 4 week and for a very good reason 2 week classes only. Students do not have to have the tools, they will be provided except for a couple items.

You can try Hale and Co. their web page is up. Frank