billymac814

My Boss never needed adjustment. The only thing I did was upgraded the shuttle to a newer one with the locking mechanism and it was fine, they make nearly no marks on the leather either. If your doing holsters, ecspecially one with a welt you'd be running that Techsew at nearly full capacity. Every machine I own can sew at full capacity but they sew much better sewing less than full capacity. The techsew would be a good choice though if your not going to need to stitch beyond the 7/16" capacity and preferably less and certainly better than the Boss if you'd be doing long runs on straps and belts. Most holsters though have between 30-100 stitches which is no big deal on the Boss and the Boss will stitch 3/4" of an inch with no problem. If you're strictly making holsters and the occasional belt I would still go with the Boss, is use it until you can afford a 441. Its definitely not a waste of money ecspecially when you can post it for sale and it'll sell within a week and you can ship it anywhere in the country with UPS which makes it easier to sell. It will be more difficult to sell the Techsew with stand and all to anyone who's not local to you. If I could only keep one of my machines personally it certainly wouldn't be the Boss, however if this guy is handsewing holsters now and that's all he's making a Boss is a very viable option and probably the best option in that price range but that depends on what and how much he needs it, I don't know that we have enough information to recommend what he really needs. If he's trying to run a holster business then he should bite the bullet and spend the money on a 441. If he's doing it as a hobby or small part time business the Boss will fill the bill fine. Mine got me through from hobbyist to part time business to full time before I got a 441.

I agree that a used 441 would be better than a Boss, they are a little more versitile ecspecially if you want to do a lot of belts or other items with smaller thread that has a lot of stitches but they are more expensive and if you're strictly doing holsters the Boss is a very capable and suitable machine for the task at hand and used ones can be found for around 1000 bucks give or take a little depending on what's included. I don't think you'd regret spending the extra for a 441 but on the same hand I don't think you'd regret buying a used boss either. And buying a used Boss is like putting money in the bank, you can use it for 2-3 years and sell it for what you paid for it.

Thanks for all the suggestions, I do like the keychain idea that could be reused by customers. I have enough I may try out a few of the suggestions here.

For 1300 bucks and a first machine to stitch holsters I would second the Boss. It is a great little machine, it will far outperform just about anything else in that price range unless you get really lucky and get a good deal on something. A lot of people end up getting something that isn't suitable for stitching heavy leather like holsters and it leads to headaches and shotty looking work. The Boss will pull down a nice stitch and have no problems with thick leather. They also really aren't much slower than a powered machine for holsters as even with a powered machine they are running very slow. Don't worry about needing both hands on a holster, one is pretty much plenty. I stitched up thousands of holsters on my Boss before I got a Cb 4500, I sometimes wish I would have not waited so long as its much nicer and quieter to use but they both make a nice stitch. If the power goes out they can be hand wheeled too. I would find a used Boss or at least get one when they are on sale though. New ones for 1500 are a bit much I think. Add a stand some extra bobbins a light and an extra foot and you're pushing 1800 or more, at that point I'd save a little more and get a 441 clone, they start at around 2k or so depending on arm length and what you get with it.

Black would probably look fine as it goes with everything. I personally feel a light interior would look classy though and it would be easier to see in the bag to get something. If you want it natural order some natural from somewhere else, if you use black because its all they had you may regret it later on, especially if the bag is for you, if its a customers bag they may not care and may prefer the black. I can't help you much with pictures but a lot of purse manufactures use black lining, you could search some of those out.

I spent my Saturday doing a small production of cases to hold a welding lens for a manufacturing business. The case is a very simple design of the customers, they provided a cad drawing, I had a die made and finished them up yesterday. The bye product of this is 200 1.5" English Bridle leather circles. I'm trying to figure out a way to use them for something. I thought about using them as tags for some of my items, I could stamp them with my makers mark and punch a hole in them or even have a new stamp made with more of my info on it, similar to a wooden nickel. I could also stamp a letter in them and sell them for a buck or two as small key chains, it might take a while to sell but I'd get 200 bucks back over time. I figured I'd throw it out there see if there's anything else cool that could be done with them. I hate to just throw them away for some reason.

I just got a die from Texas custom Dies and I was pleased with the results. It wasn't an especially difficult one but it was one for a cover that was the same on both sides so that I cut out two pieces and stitched them together, it was very important that it was perfect otherwise when I reversed the one piece of leather to stitch it onto the other it wouldn't have matched up. (Hopefully that makes sense). It matched up perfectly so I couldn't really ask for much more. The turn around time was good as was the price. I can't say for sure if they ship to Australia but I'd imagine they would. The die also came with some ejection rubber in it but I found it easier to just pop the leather out with my finger. Here's a picture of the die with the finished cases.

If it creates a natural spot on the groove I would take a little dye and dye that first, just use a small brush and some cordovan dye. You can also try pushing a groove into the leather with a pair of dividers instead of removing the material, or just remove a little bit, you don't have to cut it super deep. I wouldn't strip down the 5 cord personally but I guess you could try it. It seems like more of an hassle than its worth. I'd try to either save it for something else or post it for sale if you don't think you'll need it. I did a test piece, I stripped 2 cords off of a 6 cord Bourbors that I have and it just doesn't seem to look the same, it might be ok in a pinch but I wouldn't want to do it often. It may look better once waxed, I didn't go that far in my test. I don't often use linen thread, I machine stitch almost everything though and the stuff that I make is mostly modern stuff so nylon suits me. I never like sinew but if I was making something that was more traditional and sinew fit the bill I would use it then, the same goes for linen thread really.

I don't think anyone said that knockoffs are better than genuine. Most knockoffs are junk and you can tell from 15' away they are fake. The genuine LV ones are perfect in every way, if they are not they don't leave the factory and they don't EVER sell "Seconds". A lot of knockoff LV bags use vinyl instead of leather on the handles which always rip and they never get darker like a real one. Most fake ones don't last more than a few months of daily use. I despise them and I always charge more to fix a fake one, usually hoping they will pass on the repair. The junk materials are harder to work with. That being said though some knockoff manufactures are making ones that are of pretty high quality and very difficult to tell whether they are real or not. I would be very cautious buying any LV product on the used market unless I really knew where it came from no matter how good it looks. Some of the manufactures go to great lengths to try to fool people, they copy the tags, the dust covers and even receipts.

It definitely is because the cases are far too cheap and they don't even mention LV, probably because they don't want to draw attention to it. I see they also have "Gucci" ones and a few others. If they were made from used (or new)genuine ones and sold as such it would be different. They are also made in china where you can probably buy rolls of fake LV monogram canvas and all the fake hardware you desire. Used and damaged LV bags sell for a minimum of 100.00- 300.00 depending on how bad they are. You'd only get a few cases out of each so they would have to be more expensive. Those cases are cool looking though and if they were made from a genuine LV bag I'd probably have a pending order right now even if they were more expensive.

Very nice looking machine. Bob and bobby are both great to deal with, I bought two machines and a table/motor combo from them, I too make the trip. They are further away from me but right off of I80 so I plan my trips there around trips to my inlaws in Chicago. I just ordered a pull through skiver from them as well. I didn't even know they sold them until I asked. About how much was that machine? I would someday like to get one. I almost picked up a used one at an auction but I didn't know enough about them and I figured it may end up being a headache because I had no idea of the condition or type, a lot of times its just easier to buy new, especially when you don't know much about them.

I think you'd have better results with a thinner thread for wallets. 5 cord is fairly heavy stuff for a wallet. I'd probably use size 138 at most depending on style, maybe 207 for a real heavy duty look. A 5 cord linen thread is equivalent to size 346 which is very heavy, most of us holster makers use 277 on holsters, some duty gear or more heavy ones will use 346. Just like a needle you'll need to find an awl that is sized appropriate for the thread you're using. If your awl holes are too big then you'll have to get a smaller one, I think Tandy only sells like one maybe two sizes and they are too big, you can rework it yourself if that's all you have. I'm not sure about grooving the Shell cordovan, I probably would personally if I were handsewing it, unless it is too thin to groove but I doubt that. If you get thinner thread you should be able to pull it down in a little tighter and even without grooving it it shouldn't look like its just laying on top like it does now.

I'm glad I don't live in Australia!! Everything is expensive over there. The Claes machines are not cheap here either, they run between 5k and 7k depending if and what stand you get. I think that I'd just go with the head as the stands are way over priced and I have a brand new stand with servo and reducer for my Adler 30 that would work. I use a patcher quite a bit for repair work as that's half of my business so I wouldn't mind making the investment, (you have to have it to make the investment though) I have probably another 35 yrs before Ill be able to retire, I see no reason a Claes wouldn't see me through that and it would make my life easier during that time. Its just not quite high enough on my priority list right now, maybe in the next couple years. Rayban, I have a 29-4 sitting in my window as a display. I got it for a whole 45 bucks, it needed cleaned and lubed up but it will sew. If you don't need one often it will certainly fill a void.

I'd say its not ok, for one that is made with fake LV material and their vague description is probably meant to mislead buyers into thinking that is an LV product. That's far different than a customer commissioning a single item to be made with a real used LV purse which is what I'm saying I would do. Its cool looking though. Again my only problem with the OP is that the customer wants to use fake material and that already means their intentions are wrong. I recently repurposed a suitcase that was my customers grandfather and turned it into a planner. The suitcase was no good and she wanted to be able to continue using it in another form. No matter the brand I would have gladly taken the job. Wouldn't be any different if it was an Lv bag or not. She rightfully obtained it and is doing what she wants with it.

To update my earlier post. I received my die from Texas and used it last night. It does not suffer from the occasional over penetration like the steel rule dies do since the bevel is quite severe. Its not a big deal to over come though as I've got it down to a science for the most part. I'm able to make the steel rule dies much cheaper so ill continue to use them.

Yea mine are pretty huge, I take them with my iphone and upload them to photobucket using the app and share them that way. I know they end up being big but if I had to get them on a computer to resize them I'm afraid I probably wouldn't bother. Unless you're talking the kind that are so huge that you can't even see what it is??

Yea right, that's what we all said at one point. They have a tendency to start multiplying like rabbits. You may have all you "need" but that doesn't mean you won't find yourself wanting for another:-). The problem with less aggressive feet is that you'll run into feeding issues. It requires those feet to feed. The last one I bought I think it was slightly polished up a bit to not be quite as sharp, it still feeds good. They really don't mark up every type of leather that bad and its usually not a problem unless you're trying to make something out of veg tan which in most cases you'd want to use another machine anyway. I've also heard of people dipping them in that rubber stuff that's used to coat tool handles. I don't know how well it works but in theory it might but those things are usually for those that are trying to use the machine in place of your flatbed or cylinder machine which you shouldn't need to do. It won't mark up a patch or a bikers jacket much at all, same goes for most chrome tanned leathers. Also when threading your machine its sometimes easier to just tie your new thread to the old thread and pull it right down through. You should be able to thread it in seconds really. I also buy pre wound bobbins in black white and brown, if a job has a covered bsckside like a boot I just let black or whatever is in it there. If its a visible backside then ill change the bobbin and if its any other color than white brown or black I wind my own.

I think we are very lucky to have Internet and a forum like this, it is plenty to learn from. Without it I certainly don't think I would have been able to learn the trade. I pretty much read the whole forum when I started. I often say that I'm "self taught" but really that isn't the case at all, I had no hands on training but I learned and still learn from those who shared their knowledge on the forum. I went a while without reading or posting but I never felt good about just taking information so now I try to help when I can.

Did you edit out your picture? I didn't get to see it.

These are machines that if you buy them for some other purpose than their intended purpose you will probably absolutely hate it. This seems to happen quite often actually. These machines are the "when no other machine will do it" machines. I use mine to stitch shoes and boots and other hard to reach repairs and patches on biker gear . Ill also tend to use it alot even on flat type repairs that could be done on another machine only because I can thread a patcher quicker than all of my others. If its a lot of stitches ill go for something else but for a few the patcher does fine. I mainly use 69 thread, sometimes 92 and on occasion 138 but not often. I can sew pretty much anything I can jam under the foot although it will not feed correctly when used like that. This is normally "in a pinch" type situation. Usually thick boots around the counter where its thicker. You can use a manual of a Singer 29k, that should be nearly identical, probably one after 29k-58 although I don't know which sub class the Consew is cloned from but they are all similar enough.

A bigger shop probably isn't happening anytime soon, it is still a work in progress but I think that I can maximize the space a little better. It was strictly a shoe repair shop up until a little over a year ago and when I bought the place I also got about 35 years worth of clutter and then I moved in about 6 more machines plus the cutting table and workbench, the press and a bunch of smaller stuff. Once I get that big old finisher out and replace it with a smaller modern one that'll spare me a little room and I'm going to switch my benches around. No matter how much room I have its never enough. It wasn't enough when I was working in my kitchen, then it wasn't enough when I had a dedicated room and its not enough now with 800 sq ft. I have about another 800 sq ft in the front where the counter and store front is. It is a good location in a shopping center now although most people plan to come to my shop so I don't know if it would be that big of a deal if I moved somewhere else but I'd definitely want to spend as much as I can on advertising to let people know I moved and didn't close up although I do get the occasional customer that I wouldn't mind them not knowing where I went:-)

I sill don't believe there to be any risk or wrong doing in doing it. I would really like to find out from a lawyer or someone else who could provide facts as to whether or not this would be a trademark infringement. I highly doubt it. You are not copying anyone's design or copying their trademark. So if you had a customer who brought you a belt buckle with the Harley Davidson Logo would you not make a belt for it? I myself would, I would not however tool a Harley Davidson logo onto a belt. I made a belt with a S&W buckle on it as well, a buckle I purchased directly from S&W. is that a problem too?

Good point. I have 2 of them, I don't think I particularly want to hand crank as much as I just want one of those Junker & Ruhs. I've never had the chance to use one but I will have one some day.

Thanks to this thread I was able to use up 2 large backs of English bridle leather that I've had for quite a while. It was 13oz and too heavy for most things, I was making belts out of it but I started getting belts pre cut and pre edged from weavers to sell in my shop because I didn't have the time to keep enough in stock. Anyway I got an order for 50 simple lens cases that hold a piece of welding glass and I was able to run this all through my splitter and use it up. It was a little extra work of course but it seemed worth it. I'm ordering a pull through type too to make lap skiving easier for when I make belts and straps. I do still make custom belts and my gun belts, the pre cut blanks are more my standard belts that I sell in my store for those that don't want to wait which is most of my local customers it seems. Thanks

I have a Landis too. If its out of adjustment it should split it consistently wrong I would think. Make sure that the split part is not wrapping around the roller and forcing the leather you're spitting up further which would make it thinner. I've had that happen on mine on occasion.