kc8290

Wanted used Randall Model R-32 rotary embossing machine and embossing rolls (especially basket weave). Good working condition, preferably less than 10 years old. Thank you. Ken Akron, Ohio

I was purchasing several sides a month from W&C. All in all good quality leather. Bridle leather colors not always consistent with the color chart on their website or samples they provide (especially the lighter colors).Leather weight is consistent as advertised. Customer service room for improvement. Their stock availability has been poor lately. At least on the grades I buy. They went into their annual down out of stock on several items. Had to move business to other suppliers as a result. Big hassle.Will check back with them in a few weeks to see if their stock availability has improved. I have been purchasing more and more of Herman Oak (from Weaver Leather). I'monly an hour away from Weaver so I can visit and hand pick what I need. Although in general their HO inventory looks good (lately) and I find myself taking from the top of the stack. Some leather colors not consistent with the samples HO sends out. I also purchase from RJF Leather who has been a good supplier.

Sound good. I use 4" (instead of 3") from the last hole to the tip. Not really sure what is best. Also the length of the strap that folds over the buckle will vary depending on the keeper width, number of keepers, tongue slot length, fastening system (snaps, rivits, screws) so you have to adjust the length accordingly. Your measurement of 3 to 3-1/2" should be a good length for most situations with one keeper loop. Hope that helps. Ken

Hello Jon – The “favorite hole” becomes the center hole onthe new belt. If you have five holes itwould be the third hole. Therefore tothe belt end (tongue end) it would be 2” for the two holes (1” spacing) plusyour 3” from your last hole to the belt tip. I think you may have left out the 2” for the last two holes. Ken

Hello Art - According to Artisan the current machine has a different feed system and roller and is not compatible with the older machine. Artisan's advise is to find a machine shop that will make one for me. I thought I would try to find and one first. It still may be worth speaking to Steve. Thanks Ken

Hello - I have an old ArtisanNP-10 top and bottom feed skiver. I'm looking for the top feed roller for this machine that is concave on both ends. It was the standard roll shipped with this machine back in the 90's. Artisan discontinued this model skiver in 1999 and the part is no longer available from Artisan. Any information on where I can find one would be appreciated. This picture is the roll that I have which is concave on one end. I need the one that is concave on both ends. I apologize if I posted in the wrong area. Thanks Ken

Nice splitter (new and made in the USA).. You think if you paid $600+ that Cambell Randall would at least give you some instructions on how it works. I think the numbers on the side just provides you a reference point of paticulare settings that you may want to return too. You may want to speak with Dan at Cambell Randall. He should be able to describe in detail. Sorry not much help.

I believe they are called Ring Posts. Page 56 in the Ohio Travel Bag P210 catalog. http://www.ohiotravelbag.com/FlipBook/hardware%20catalog%20p210/index.html Ken

Sim - Ohio Travel Bag has a selection of 1-3/4" buckles --> http://www.ohiotravelbag.com/index.html Good luck.

Greatly Impressed.

I am not aware of a formula. It would be nice to have a formula that would take into consideration the number of strips (3, 5, 7, etc) , beginning and finished width, and thickness of the leather. The way I did this one was to figure out the finished braid length I wanted. Then I added to it 1" inch for every 12". For this belt I wanted to end up with 30" of finished braid. Therefore I cut the seven strip 32.5" long (actually I rounded up to 33" long). The finished braid came out extactly 30". More experience may help to calculate better given the different variables. But I lucked out on this one. The overall belt finished at 1-3/4" wide and I started with a 2-5/8" wide blank. I had to taper down the width of the buckle and tongue ends to eqaul the width of the braid. I need work doing that because it did not come out exact.

Bruce - A draw gauge sounds like a winner! I have the wood draw gauge which is closed so I was not thinking of a draw gauge as being an option.... But an open blade draw guage would work perfectly. Duhhh...I should have known that. I did not buy an open one because I'm left handed and most of the open blade draw gauges that I've seen seem to be used with the right hand. I could be wrong. I think Weaver has one that you can turn and make left handed. Thank you.

Hello - I tried to make a seven strap mystery braid belt yesterday and the hardest most time consuming part was cutting the seven strips (picture attached). So I thought I would ask the question on how others would do it. I started out with a 2-5/8” wide strap. I then cut seven 3/8” strips using a utility knife. I tried using a Jerry's Stripper but found it too difficult to pull through the 10 oz harness leather. In all, it took me over two hours to cut the belt. Any suggestions on how to more efficiently cut the strips would be appreciated. Perhaps I should use a round knife or curved edge trim knife. I don't have either but probably should buy. Boy…It also took a long time to edge all of those braids. I did not bother burnishing because I was only practicing the braid. Kind regards, Ken

I purched two on ebay for $5 each. I think it was a lucky find. Normally they run around $20. You can search under "wool felt wheel". You can also order them from http://www.buffalofelt.com/Felt_Wheels.aspx The sizes are not listed on their website, you have to call them. They come in soft, medium and hard. I think i have medium. Don't know which is best. The harder (more compact) it is the more it costs. I have a 3" diameter. I would like a smaller diameter because you can see the work results faster (if you burnishs from the bottom of the wheel). The width I have is 1-3/4". You need at least that much so you can make at least two sizes of grooves. Two inches wide perhaps would be better. I used a round file and screwdrider to form the grooves. Ken

I made one. I purchased a wool felt wheel (two actually). I mounted it on a ½” shaft arbor. It works okay. Currently I have a piece of heavy canvas wrapped around it (glued). I like the canvas a little better but really haven’t used it that much. I also made one with leather washers (instead of the wool wheel) stacked on a shaft arbor. Works well also. Picture of a wool felt wheel and wool felt wheel on the shaft arbor with canvas wrapped around it, attached.

I can't tell how big it is from the picture but ohio travel bag carries one that looks just like it. http://www.ohiotravelbag.com/ Pull up their hardware catalog and go to page 56.

Hello Art - Went to Weaver lether today (my favorite store). Their 8" Heritage skiver looks just like the Tandy skiver to me. It looked nice. Yes that Keystone looks like a very nice one. Pricey but like you said you get what you pay for. I think I will do a little more looking. I'm having second thoughts on buying a used Fortuna from a stranger. I'll take a look at the Chinese version of the Fortuna. HighLead skiver looks nice. Thank you.

Bruce – This Fortuna looks like it is in very good condition (on the outside) but I know you are very knowledgeable of skivers so if you don’t think it will fulfill my needs than I will reconsider. I will look into the #84. I was going to visit Weaver Leather today (I live about an hour away) so I will look at their selection. They have a Heritage brand that is patterned after the old Osborne #84. Not sure about the quality. Thanks.

Hello All - I'm trying to learn more about skiving machines so I can purchase the correct type that will fullfill my needs. There is a local store that sells used industrial machinery and they have a FORTUNA BRAND MODEL NO. V 50 S skiving machine for sale at a good price so I'm considering purchasing it. They have little knowledge of the machines capabilities. I need a skiving machine that will skive the end of belts at the bend. From what I can tell from reading posts on this forum I believe this is called lap skiving. I also need the ability to split a belt. For example to make a money belt where a portion of the belt is split and sewed back together to form the money pouch. The leather I use ranges from 8-12 oz. Does anyone know if the v50 s machine will fulfill my needs? I tried to look up information on this machine on the net but could not find any specs. Thank you. Ken

I tried their natural full grain single bend 10-11 oz #1 and was very happy with the quality. Used to make belts. I plan to try their bridle next.

What type of stain did you use or was it a dye (color also)? Normally after the dye dries you need to remove the residue that is left behind, especially with black. Then seal it. I don't have any experience with super shene. You may want to try two thin coats especially on the inside. I also use leather balm with atom wax between dying and sealing. Sorry I'm not much help.

Doug - I think Tony is correct. The color looks closer to Chestnut. Here is the link to Wickett & Craig's color chart http://www.wickett-craig.com/swatches.html Check out the English Bridle Chestnut. If you look at Fiebling's color chart http://www.fiebing.com/Color_Charts.aspx it looks like their light brown is closer to matching what you are looking for versus their Russet. Hard to tell. Ken

In the past few days I have tried using even less pressure. Also in the past I was passing the belt back and forth on the burnisher. It was suggested to pass the belt through going in one direction only. Also I’m letting the gum sit for about five to ten minutes. The combination of these three items seem to have improved the strength of the burnish. Although more testing is needed. I read in several previous posts that 1725 RPM motor was being used successfully by several members. So thanks for confirming Aaron that the Fantasic Edge Burnisher (FEB) uses a 1725 motor speed. When I look at the FEB video it looks like the applied pressure is more than I use plus the belt is moved back and forth. So I remain a little confused. Perhaps I just need more practice. I REALLY do appreciate all of your feedback. Thanks

Thanks Freg. Yes, perhaps that is it. The motor is 1725 RPM. The burnisher is groved 1/4". I do not put a lot of pressure on it with the leather but than again I'm not sure how much pressure I should be using. It is not burning the edge.

Hello All. I'm fairly new at leather working. Lately I've tried to make several belts and I am having problems with the burnished edges fraying shortly after I complete the belt. When I complete the burnishing the edges are round, smooth and shinny but after a little use the edges begin to fray especially around the buckle. I don't know if this is normal, or if it is the quality of the leather or my process. Or all of the above. The method I'm using is; 1) Bevel edge with #3 edger. 2) Gum Tragacanth ,3) Burnish with a burnisher I made. 4? Then Edge Kote. ). I cut the belt width about 1/8" less than the buckle width to minimize the belt rubbing again the buckle. I'm using 8-10 oz skirting leather, utility grade from Wicket and Craig. I also have tried Bob Park's great process and had the same result. Looks great after completion but does not last. I only tried this method once. The burnisher is a shaft arbor with leather washers mounted on a motor (see pic) Any suggestions as to what I'm doing wrong would be helpful. Thank you. Ken