marine mp

Steven, Although I'm not a real fan of IWB holsters, those are quite nice, indeed. If these are your first tries at the art of holstery, you have a stellar start. The black dye takes a LOT of rubbing to get the excess powdered particles out of the surface. When I was dying black, I would do a coat, then rub, rub, rub till my hands were like putty. Then I would do a second coat, even if it didn't need it. Then rub, rub, rub....you get the picture. If you don't get the excess surface particles off the leather, it runs with the finish. Anymore, I use vinegar black for the black colors and don't worry about the black dye rubbing or leaching off into clothing. Pretty much my holsters are finished in Natural (olive oil 2) Feibings Oxblood red 3) Vinegaroon. I've made my own top-coat or sealer in 3 equal weight parts of beeswax, parrafin and neatsfoot oil rubbed into the leather. Again, great work. Semper-fi Mike

Clay, I did a test for myself a few months ago. I took 3 pieces of leather and was looking for the best way to mold a piece and for it to retain its shape and hardness. !) Plain water 2) Water with 1 tablespoon of elmers glue mixed in 3) Rubbing alcohol. I did not apply any artificial heat. Naturally dried. The water/elmers dried and kept the mold the best. Next-plain water, third place-alcohol. Semper-fi Mike

NC Holster Maker, Go to the "Supplier" section of this website, 4th page, 5th post and look for Cowboy Thunder's post. He has some 9 cord waxed thread for sale. $10.00. There is a whole bunch of it and it is a good size, in my opinion, for hand sewing. I bought some and he is excellent to deal with. Had it in 4 days. A little difficult to put thru the eye of a "00" needle, but sure looks good on the finished product. JMHO Semper-fi MIke

Mortarman, As with several other replies, I have made several, (making one as we type) that is specifically a "sap" I fill it with BB's and has a 5/16 expansion spring from top to bottom. Mine has bb's in the handle with the spring. It is like others have stated, filled from the handle and sewn up and the leather strap wraps over the top of the hand and is sewn again to form a loop. Don't know how to post pictures or I would show. As Lobo has stated....be weary as to how it is maketed if they are to be sold. My state allow one to be bought and carried, but it is illegal to use it on a person. But....that being said......if my life is in danger I don't believe I will be asking myself if it is legal or illegal. It is better for me to be "tried by twelve, than carried by six" Semper-fi MIke

Lil'ray, Your original question was "is there any way to speed up the rusting" on 'roon. There is "nothing" fast about vinegaroon other than the actual way it turns leather black. It does this in 2 minutes flat. (at least thats how long I keep it in the mix. It could take a shorter time than that). A 'roon concoction takes time, like a good wine does. About 2 weeks minumim to a month for the steel shavings. Maybe less for the the steel wool. I've only used the shavings. Now, it will turn leather black in a couple days. Both of your 'roon cococtions look like their on their way to being good stuff. If your a military man, remember KISS?? "KEEP IT SIMPLE".. Don't over-think this stuff. Its to easy. Let the vinegar do it's work. If you need to "black" a piece, do it. Just dip it for a minute or two. Let it set...dip it in a mix of water an baking soda for a couple of minutes to stop the process and help with the smell. (Some say this is unnecessary???? I do it...it's cheap) Then hang it in front of a fan for several hours. But-a-bing. It's done. Read the posts from Chuck Burrows...he's the man. Now grab a cold ice tea and let the mix brew!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Semper-fi MIke

Chuck, Not meaning a hijacking of this post, but seeing we're on the vinegar black.....I make mine out of steel mill shavings and have successfully done several pieces that have turned out great. Question....is it common for the concoction to form a thin film on the top if not shaken from time to time. I usually let it set from one use to the next and there is a brown film on it when that breaks up when I shake it up. Thanks. Semper-fi MIke (PS...I still have several cups of shavings put aside for anyone who cares to try their hand at the vinegar black. )

Andy Arratoonian from Horseshoe Leather Products has been making leather product for 35 years. He has a good article on cow vs. horse for leather holsters on his horseshoe leather site. The holsters look great. I agree with Dan to some extent on the trigger-guard area. Not so much about the coverage, as it looks o.k., but that the trigger itself is molded into the leather. For me, thats a bad concept. As you are holstering the weapon, it could accidently go "boom". Also, the belt slots look to be at different angles, I myself like to keep them at the same angle, although that just my preference. All in all, Great job. Semper-fi Mike

Very nice indeed. Semper-fi Mike

Ben, I've never used any exotics but I would imagine they or it would need a finish for protection as well. I recently made up my own finish which seems to be working out quite well. I used what most others have used to cook up their own concoction of Neatsfoot, beeswax and parrafin wax all melted in equal weight measurement. I just added a tablespoon of mink oil to the mix...melted it and let it solidify in a cup. I then rubbed it in the last holster that I made and it has worked real well. That was my final finish. Semper-fi Mike

I'm thinking (dangerous) that I may want to try some of this Skidmores Leather finish that seems to be so popular here on the holster channel!!! What type of it do you use (there are several) and which of the Leatherworker supporters sell it? Thanks. Semper-fi Mike

What MADMAX22 said, or you can use regular buck niny-eight rubbing alcohol. The rubbing alcohol actually helps the dry to dry faster and leaves leather harder....if a hard piece of leather is what your after. Semper-fi Mike

Mack, I'd use neatsfoot oil or Fiebings 4-way care. Also might try Mink Oil. But.........I would do it AFTER I did the re-dye. Lets see......1) Repair torn places on saddlebags 2) Re-dye and after drying, rub off excess powdered residue 3) Oil up the bags. 4) Seal with product of your choice. (Mink oil, Resolene, etc.) Semper-fi MIke

Pman, I really don't know how long it will stay tacky, but........I've always rubbed in Kiwi Nuetral shoe polish to break the shine, and it looses it's tackiness.. Sorry for the "around the goalpost" answer, but thats the best I can do. Maybe someone else can put in some better intel. Semper-fi Mike

Cattle Hide,Welcome to the LW forum. The wealth of knowledge here is unbelieveable. I will try to answer a few of the questions that you are asking about. 1) I use a 3/16" border....that leaves a little wiggle-room for error and also for sanding off some rough edges. 2) I use a 9 ply waxed thread that is quite heavy but really makes for a nice looking piece of stitched leather. It is little difficult to get into the needle-eyelet, but the results are worth it ....for me. The "Supplier" part of the forum, on page 3, has a LW partner named "Cowboy Thunder" who has some of this thread for sale. 525 feet for 10.00. Look for the header of "Waxed Hand Stitching Polyester Thread for sale". 3) I usually use 5-6 stitches per inch set up with the overstitching wheel. I drill the holes with a .060 drill bit (Dremel) and finish off with the awl. Needles are #000. 4) I use the 2-needle" saddle stitch. I hope this is of some help. Semper-fi Mike

Sounds like a elastic waistband belly holster is the ticket. Semper-fi Mike

Pitman, Either thats a real small pistol or very large coinage!!!!!!!!!! Never was any good with the metric system......1.95cm. Anyways, nice looking rig and some really serious sewing on those belt loops. Lotta people looking at it and I'm sure more comments will be coming. Semper-fi Mike

Gunman1876, This shoulder holster looks like a well built piece. Rugged and looks like it has plenty of adjustment and the cut-out by the trigger guard is something I've not seen before. My only critacism would be that if you had to jack that smokepole in a hurry, you might have some difficulty getting a good purchase on the stocks. Otherwise, GREAT job. Keep up the good work. Semper-fi Mike

A very nice piede of leatherwork. The coloring is beautiful and the IWB loops look just right. I do have to agree with usmc0341 though...that radical cant would probably end up with pulling the entire holster off the trousers if it had to be accessed in a hurry. But. that JMHO. I put a 7-10 degree cant on mine and find that even that sometimes is to much. Anyways, a beautiful piece. Semper-fi

Josh, I soak (8 seconds isn't soaking) my leather for a couple minutes and then shove the weapon in the holster. Leave it set a while and then when the leather drys out some, I mold it. (That being....if I'm gonna mold it, a lot of times I just simply outline it as I basketweave the front of a lot of the time). Then I let the leather restr with the weapon in it for a few hours, pull the weapon out and then let it dry naturally. The holster doesn't lose its shape or hardness. In the winter I put it over a hot-air duct on the floor, but not an oven. Leather is skin. I don't put mine in an oven, but some others do. I let it dry on its own. Who is right and who isn't. Don't matter. What-eva works for you is right. Oh.....and the "how long does it stay hard jokes.......hahahahahaha.....think about it and they are pretty good!!!!!!! Semper-fi Mike

Decoyman, If you'll go to the "suppliers" link at the first part of the forum...go to page 3 and look for "Cowboy Thunder". Dennis has some Coates/American, 9 strand (.045 thick) waxed white polyester on a spool of 525 feet for $10.00. Thats a lot of thread for the money. I bought some and it is fairly thick(.045), but it sure makes for a beautiful end product. I think the thread has as much beauty as the leather itself, if it is done right. Dennis is a pleasure to do business with and the thread was at my house in 4 days. I guess you know what I'll be using from now on!!!!!!!!! Semper-fi MIke

Recently found a site in Texas that is called www.e-cost.com that sells "red" training guns. Go to the "search" and put in "asp red guns". I've bought other stuff from them before and found them to be quite good. Never bought any red guns from them as I found them by "accident" last night. Semper-fi Mike

JRC, You can find one at ......www.e-cost.com. Go to the "search" and put in "asp red guns" and you will find it there. Semper-fi Mike

Jay, From what all I've read, the finer, the better. Meaning the more "000" the better. I use steel shavings, so I cannot speak from experience. Semper-fi Mike

Nick, C/C holstermaker here. I use Tandy's Eco-Flo Leathercraft Cement. Have for years and it will tear the leather before turning loose. I haven't used the Timebond, but if it works, don't fix it!!!!! I also used the Elmers yellow waterproof glue and it is very easy on the wallet. Take care and welcome to the forum. Don't be a stranger. Semper-fi MIke

BigO, Not just nice......beautiful!!!!! How yall do that inlay is way beyond me. You need to do a tutorial on how to do that. That is beautiful. Semper-fi. Mike