marine mp

If I'm not bad mistaken, the Taurus M-85 Models should also do ya. Semper-fi Mike

Malabar, I'm interested as to how the vinegarooned leather will hold the molding. Is it stiff or is it semi-stiff?? (Don't sound right!!!!!!!).. All of my 'rooned holsters seem kinda limp compared to the oil-dyed holsters that retain their shape and are stiff. So much so that I no longer use the vinegaroon for holsters. What say you? Semper-fi MIke

Volpert, first off, welcome to the forum.....very nice people and lotsa great information. The holster.....incredible!!!!!!! My 1st didn't look nothing like that. Great job!!!!! Picture is waaaaay big though!!!!!!! Semper-fi MIke

Abram.....It looks to me like the holster wasn't wet enough when you molded or formed it. You might try what I do...make sure you oiled the holster at one point, (I do it before I dye them) put about 4" of warm water in the sink and throw the holster in it. I let it sit there for several minutes and then take it out and do my thing. Yes, the leather is soaked, but it works for me. Different ways of doing the same thing. JMHO. Semper-fi Mike PS. You have a beautiful piece anyways.

He who makes no mistakes, is doing nothing!!! Good-on-ya!!! Another one....If at first you don't succeed.....you know the rest!!! Semper-fi Mike

malabar, If you don't want to go w/the airbrush route, you might try what I do. I. like Mike, am a one man shop, that way my quality control is on my shoulders. I use Fiebings dye and a 10 cent dauber. Not because I'm cheap, just thats the way I learned and I'm to stubborn to change. I lightly neatsfoot the leather, and immediately dye it. It usually come out even and symetrical. Try it on a piece of scrap. One day I may go with the airbrush, but the dauber method, for me. is fine. I just can't highlight or do the fancier work that requires a airbrush. Semper-fi Mike

mr09, Welcome to the forum and good job on the holster. Maybe just a few comments to help out with future pieces and these are just my observations. The rear belt loop looks a bit to close to the trigger guard. Leave a little more leather on the rear of the holster and move the loop rearward. It looks like there is sewing around the loops which is not really necessary, in my opinion. Also, it looks like there may be a real excess forward cant to the weapon when it is on the person. Men seemingly have a slight spare tire (me especially!!!!) around the middle which exagerates the forward cant of the shooter, by tilting the holster down in the front. Thats nature taking its course. So the forward cant is even greater when it is on the belt. Lastly, I am not a fan of the retention strap on a heavily boned piece. I realize the customer is the last word in what his or her desires are, and some LE deptartments require the retention strap. For myself, its just a hinderance to the draw and something to get in the way upon re-holstering. Like I said, JMHO. It is a great start. I wish my first was as yours. Happy New Year. Semper-fi another Mike!!!!!!!!!!!

Very nice, indeed. A piece of leather art. Semper-fi Mike

Hope all had a Merry CHRISTmas and wish for all a Happy New year. Thanks for the kind words on the holster. mlapaglia...the green dye is Fiebings Oil dye. To get a even color, I brush on pure neatsfoot oil and while the piece is still damp from the oil, I dye it. Semper-fi Mike

Hello the forum...It's been a while...First off, I hope everyone has a Merry CHRISTmas and a Happy New Year!! While my son was home on leave from the US Coast Guard, I thought I would have him try to upload a picture of a recent holster I made as I am not technically savvy. A green OWB w/ostrich inlay for the origional grand daddy of the small .45's - the Detonics. Hope you like it. Semper Fi, Mike

Ray, That was excellent and maybe the moderators could "pin" this. How 'bout it?? Semper-fi Mike

Like Shooter, I make mine 1.6 or 1 5/8 and I make the width to SLIGHTLY over 1/4" and let the belt do the rest. Semper-fi Mike

Katsass (Mike) I just now got back on the forum after a day and a half with one of those danged 'ole kidney stones!! I truly enjoyed the memories of your day at the Acey-Duecey Club!!!! Damned 'ole Gunnys were the death of us all!!!! Having been the last platoon to graduate MCRD Parris Island (Sept. '74) with the National Defense ribbon as Vietnam was just winding up. Although...I did catch this last one (Iraqi Freedom 2003-2004). Thanks for your service and Semper-fi MIke

Katsass (Mike) I digress at times in my explanations and meant no thing pointed at your work, in particular. Knowing full well that you've forgotten more than I could hope to know about this leatherworking business. I've even started using a thin double layer of skin when I do a inlay, due to your toutiledge. So, I can stand and do stand corrected, as your excellent work has been viewed by myself as second to none. Overbuilt or no, you, Sir, are one of the standards by which I learn and measure my work by. Thanks for the lessons. Semper-fi MIke

Abram, One last side note on the leather weight (8/9). My thot is that a lot of holster makers use leather that is to heavy for the job at hand. We are just trying to make a pocket to carry a hand weapon, not a .105 Howitzer. That being said, the Tandy's leather will loose some of its bulk when you comprdess the fibers down on the flesh side. Also. after you wet mold the piece in the holster, it will loose a shade more and prolly end up being a true 8 oz. for a total of 16 oz. I make my holsters out 6/7 or the heavier weapons (1911 or Judges) out of 8/9. Just my thots. Semper-fi Mike

Abram, The higher the edger (beveler) number, the more leather it removes. If you have a thin piece of leather, use a #1 or 2, tThe thicker leather, use a higher # beveler. The idea is to make a rounded edge and not a squared off side. So use the # beveler that will make the radius to accomodate the rounded edge. Hope I 'splained it well enough. The other Mike may be able to add some intel to this explanation to help complete the thot. Semper-fi Mike

ABRAM, Take a small edger and cut that flap off then wet the edge or rub some solid saddle soap or parrafin wax into it and rub it with a deer antler. Anymore, I just glue the dges close enough so they don't have to be sanded and then edge 'em, slick-'em up then finish it. Works great. Good-on-ya. Semper-fi Mike

Thanks for the intel Denster and Dan. I will procede with the #24 snaps. Semper-fi MIke

Denster, I stand corrected. Thank you, Dan, for the explanation. This is for a Kahr PM9 so I would have to put the snap on top of the slide. I don't see anywhere I could put it by the trigger guard. Tell me if I am missing something here..(besides my brain, of course!!!!) Thanks again. Semper-fi MIke

A "pull-thru snap" releases when pressure from the weapon is drawn from the holster. It doesn't require input from the thumb or any other outside pressure source to unsnap it, other than the pressure induced from the draw. Denster, I may be wrong, but I believe the #24 snap wouldn't release itself upon pressure from just the draw. I think they are their own type of snap system. Maybe some others will help with some intel. I've "googled" and read till my eyeballs ache. Most all big leatherworking houses mention a holster with "pull-thru snaps" but I cannot find where to purchase them They just might be a #24. Thanks for the replies. Semper-fi Mike

Hello-the-forum, I will be making an ankle holster soon and am looking for a supplier or maybe a forum member who could supply me with 3 pull-thru snaps. I would be happy to pay for the product and shipping and whatever for the trouble. Anyone or information would be most grateful. Thanks Semper-fi Mike

Gicts, I may be wrong (am most of the time!!!) but I don't believe that the commercial holster makers use a "thick". gloss finish. Any kind of a "thick" gloss or satin or dull finish would crack and peel, as you have found. I don't know what the large outfits use, but I can tell you what I use, successfully. It isn't "shiny, as I usually don't make a shiny holster, but it does have a nice, waterproof lustre. I use 2 coats of resolene cut 50/50 w/water. Let that dry overnight and then finish off with a mixture of bees wax, parafin wax, and pure neatsfoot oil all mixed together on the stove (equal parts in weight) and the pour into a cupcake tin and let solidify. Rub this mixture into the leather and then buff out. I also sometimes use neutral shoe polish instead of the above miixture, but it doesn't waterproof as well. Some folks say that you don't need a finish over resolene, as it seals the leather. I prefer to put something over the resolene. Just my preference. All the above advise was gleaned right here on this board...it isn't my own thinking as the folks on here, make me look like a novice. All good people. Good-on-ya. Semper-fi Mike

What Husker said......Semper-fi Mike

Triage1998, Some more food for thot....go to the SUPPLIERS section of this forum and on page 8, I believe it is 11th post down...CowboyThunder, has some 9 cord waxed poly at 525 feet by Coats America for 10 bucks. It is a heavy thread but it makes for some beautiful holsters. It goes thru a Tandy's needle when spread out on the ends as Al Stohlman explains. I use it exclusively and am pleased with the results, although I do hand stitch everything. CowboyThunder is excellent to deal with...had it in 3 days from ordering. Just another avenue for thot. Semper-fi Mike

Mrfixit, Sorry about the non-responses. I have only used orstrich skins and know the stretch right along with the veggie-tan when molding. As far as the "furry" elephant flesh side, I don't believe that would be a detriment to adhesion. As a matter of fact, I believe it would help absorb the glue and help the adhesion along. Semper-fi MIke