marine mp

On my above post I credited Chuck Barrows with the "Edging Tutorial". I apologize and stand corrected. It is Bob Parks (Hidepounder) tutorial that I was referenceing. Again, I apologize. Semper-fi Mike

Hyde, I neatsfoot after I dye or vinegaroon. The dye pulls some of the oils out of the leather, so I NF or EVOO (very lightly) after. You've not a thing to loose at this point. Semper-fi MIke

I just follow what Chuck Burrows says in his tutorial and they come out similiar to what he says it will do. Notice, I say "similiar"!!!!!! I don't believe anyone can match his technique!! I don't use GT on any edges. Dampen, trim edges, burnish to Chuckes direction, dye then finish w/ resolene. Semper-fi Mike

Hyde, If I were you, I would put a light coat of neatsfoot or EVOO on it at this point. Neatsfoot will go thru the Resolene and may help the situation. There is nothing to loose at this point. If I'm doing Black, I use vinegaroon instead of dye. Especially seeing as its a scooter that prolly sees a lot of seat time and wear and will be subjected to all kinds of environments. . Vinegaroon turns the entire piece of leather black, not just the surface and won't wear off. It'sa a chemical reaction with the tannins in the leather. Just a thot. Semper-fi Mike

Jim, Nice job. Simple, effective and nicely formed. If the customer was local, I think I would have tried to get him or her to let you borrow the weapon to use to form the holster. That isn't a real popular weapon, but I'm sure you probably know that. Again, nice job. Semper-fi Mike

Shooter M, No thing should have the destination of the "circular file"!!!!!!!! Dy e the piece black or try "vinegarooning" it. Semper-fi Mike

Killkenny, First off, "welcome" to the LWF. There are so many others on this forum much, much more schooled in the art of leatherworking, so this information I pass on is just how "I" do my holsters. Before I sew it up, I finish the inside of the holster with a 50/50 ratio mix of water and gum tragacanth. I brush it on going with the grain and let it dry. Thats all I do, unless I want to dye the inside. As far as "how much neatsfoot".....again, JMO...I put i fairly light coat on the "outside" after I dye it and the let it dry overnight. That put some oils back into the leather that the dyes take out. By the way, I use alcohol based dyes from Feibings or home-made vinegaroon (vinegar-black). Then I finish off the holster, with 2 light coats of a 50/50 ratio mix of water/Resolene to seal the thing up. When I first started out, I would try to rush things and wouldn't let the leather dry properly. Now when-ever I do a operation, (other than the final Resolene, that about 15 min. between coats) I let the leather sit overnight and the projects come out much nicer. Patience!!!!! A word of advice....don't try to make this all to difficult. Read all you can on the forum, use the search venue, ask ???????, and enjoy. Semper-fi MIke

Louro, Both Shooter McGavin and gregintenn have covered the topic pretty well. Don't try to complicate the whole process. Read the post by Lobo that he just recently did and it will tell pretty much how to do the rest of the holster-making. Just a thot from myself that I've found.....I prefer a 10 degree cant to the weapon instead of the typical 15 degree. Just my preference. GOD bless. Semper-fi Mike

RK, Nice job all around, from what I can see. I want the Kimber UC!!!!!!!!!! Maybe someday. Should ride well with the right belt platform. Semper-fi Mike

Looks like it may be natural Neats Foot or EVOO with a Kiwi Nuetral finish. Semper-fi MIke

Wow!!! I've been reading up on the art of holstermaking, and have produced several of my own. A lot of time was spent looking at a gaszillion different operations and tutorials, (all of which were excellent pieces), but this puts it all on one plate. Thanks Lobo. Being a machinist/toolmaker, I find a lot of older hands don't want to share their knowledge of "how its done". Meaning the tool and diemaking. Its like "I learned it and its mine, you can't have it". Here, you all are open about "how its done" and thats re-freshing. Again, thanks. Semper-fi MIke

RWP, In my opinion, the 6-7 doubled up would really be to much. Ending up with...say the least...12 oz. Man, thats-a-lotta-leather. The 6-7 may be fine by itself or with a liner of 2-3. JMPO Semper-fi MIke

Nooj, Nice work indeed. Stitching and forming seem to be "top shelf". Semper-fi Mike

Haystacker, I wanted to reply earlier. but was at work and had limited computer time. I don't believe you stirred up a "hornets nest". We all learn by asking questions. I looked at your Hays Holsters .com site and see that you make a variety of really nice quality holsters, that anyone would be proud to own. To put out a holster that could be "produced in-expensively", I believe, would diminish the good name in holstery, that you have achieved. I imagine you would put your "makers mark" on the inexpensive holster and perhaps lower your status in "holster-makers-community". Again, just a thought on my part, and only just that. My opinion. I sometimes think that if some of my acquaintances had better advised me of some of MY ill-fated plans, that I thought were the cats-meow, and then ended up in the dumpster, I would have been much better off if they had told me the truth, instead of telling me to "go ahead, great idea". Anyways, enough of my ramblings. Again, just my opinion, my friend. Semper-fi Mike

Yep, Shoe polish. Kiwi Neutral Paste in the round tin can. Semper-fi MIke

Haystacker, I know you were asking about the leather strap safety thing, I'll not add my 2 cents to that .....but .......If I may be so bold, with no offense intended.....Were I in the market for a holster for my 1911 and if I were at a gun show, I don't think that style would be my holster of choice for my weapon. I believe most people are willing to spend a few more dead presidents on a holster that has a little more "body" to it than a slide holster for a 1911. Most 1911's cost in the vicinity of $600-900. People will spend that kind of jingle for a weapon, but will buy a cheapo holster for it that usually ends up in the "holster drawer", along with their other 25 holsters that they thot would be the bomb. With todays market that is selling those nylon holsters for $29.95, I believe it might be an effort in futility to try to sell a leather holster on the "cheap" side. Just my personal opinion. Semper-fi Mike

Ditto....on what Dwight said, 'cept I would put a final finish of Kiwi Neutral on it as it takes away the slight "tackyness" that I find so often with Resolene. Semper-Fi Mike

You also might try something slippery on the punch to make it "glide" thru the cased leather easier......like beeswax. It also allows you to remove the punch from the leather much easier after it punches thru. Semper-fi Mike

Banjoman, I use Fiebings dyes and a Feibings Resolene finish. Resolene/Water mixture 50/50 with at least 2 coatings. Leaves a satiny finish. The difference between Eco-flo and Fiebings is the difference between a water-base and oil base paint. The oil-base dye...I believe.... will be a more durable finish. My S.O.P. is to get to the point where I am ready to finish..1) 1 light coat of Neatsfoot oil..let dry overnight 2) Dye ..I use a dauber to dye, ...one-two-or three coats..whatever it takes..let dry overnight 3) Buff and finish w/2 coats of Resolene mixture. I mostly use Feibings Oxblood Red Dye as it goes with most any color belt. Although the customer is the final authority. Semper-fi Mike

Awesome.......nice carving and looks well put together. Good Job. Semper-fi MIke

I just finished dying my motorcycle jacket as it was in dire need of some black dye!!!! Thousands of miles had weathered the coat. What would you suggest to finish it off with???? Thanks Semper-fi MIke

Thanks Fredo

I use the same 0-00 needles as Katsass and they have a large enough eyelet in them as to drive a Abrams tank thru it. As to the idea of Fredo's.....I also use the Tandy's waxed thread but haven't thought to wax linen thread myself. Fredo..could you elaborate on the weight or size of the linen thread you are talking about...name names if you would. Ex. American thread Co, Maine Thread Co. etc. Thanks...Semper-fi Mike

One of our local hardware stores is unfortunately going out of business and is selling some Preval sprayers w/bottle attached for $3.50. I've never used one and have tried to "search" as to whether you need to thin the dyes before attempting to use them. If you are supposed to thin the dyes, what is the proper way todilute oil or spirit (Feibings) and Eco-Flo (Tandy's) Thanks for any help. Semper-fi Mike