marine mp

RDB, Very nice indeed. I did one similiar a while back all out of leather, for a Taurus PT745. I like leather, not plastic!!!!! Nice coloring and looks to cool fer' school!!!!! From another "crazy yankee" (R.I.) that ended up in the great smoky's!!!! Semper-fi MIke

JRCHolsters, Having used vinegar black for some time now, I find it is great for holsters that do not require much detail to molding. A wet-molded holster in vinegar black doesn't hold the molded shape like the dyed holsters do????? Don't understand why, but that is what I find. Also, if you are gonna do any tooling, do it before you vinegaroon it. The leather seems to get, for lack of a better word.."tougher" and is quite difficult to tool after it is dipped. My thoughts. Semper-fi Mike

Dave and King X, Thanks for the intel and the suggestions. Both sites are great and you both do fantastic work. Dave, your tutorial was excellent. Again, thanks and Semper-fi Mike

Could some of you holster makers, who do inlays explain to me how the process is done. I have always wanted to try one, but could never understand how the inlay (whatever it is....shark, elephant, lizard etc.) would be sandwiched (?) into the leather itself. Thanks for all the great wisdom here and your willingness to share. Always thot that was the greatest thing about this forum. Again thanks and Semper-fi MIke

JoeLR Very nice indeed. The stitching looks great, the re-enforcement is uniquely in the reverse of most makers and the edging is super. I like the shark piece the best but both are stellar!!!! Semper-fi Mike

Ain't no doubt about it....a piece of art in the 1st degree.

Biggundoctor....your right about Cobray...it ain't pretty but it sure do fire when I pulls the. Trigger!!! NOOJ-I formed it like any other holster. Sew it..get it wet...thenn jam the shooter in it. No boning detail on this one as I fish-scaled this one. The belt slots are cut to 1/4" and I a flat piece of stock that is contoured to my waist an I run that thru the loops and put a flat piece of plastic against the back of the loops an c-clamp them there to get them flat. Also...the fish-scale was done with a veiner-stop that I closed up a tad in the view. Thanks all for your input. Also...thanks to all you veterans out there who were willing to sacrifice your life if need be and let's remember who did give all so we could be free. Semper-Fi. Mike

I I don't often post pictures as I have to have someone else (wife or daughter) do it for me. As I believe, Lobo was talking about "Niche Markets", here's one I just completed for a Leinad Cobray .410/.45 LC...a predecessor of the Taurus Judge. I hope you can view the picture o.k. Thanks for looking and please feel free to comment for the good or not so good!!! Semper-fi Mike

Nooj, Very nice holster, indeed. The dye job, is fantastic in black (not easy). The sewing is superb and don't be consumed with the edges. Next time, glue right to the edges and let the glue squart out!!! It is easily cleaned off quickly with a damp sponge. If you can see the glue line after it is edged, it ain't no big deal....just my opinion. Were it me, I would like to see thinner belt loop slots, 1/4" at best. as they will stretch to something bigger when in use. I would also, were it me, like to see the shooter a bit lower in the pocket. It looks a bit top heavy. We strive for a high rider holster, but we still want to be safe about it, as there is no retaining strap. I personally don't like a strap, so for safetys sake, I will put the weapon slightly lower in the saddle. Just my thots. GREAT job. Semper-fi Mike (ps. your edging looks just fine to me)

Andrewsky, For my 2 non-cents....I wouldn't think that you should have to soak a piece of leather for 1/2 hour to get it molded properly. But you did it and it seemed to work. I usually run mine under water for a short time to get the leather damp and then do a minimalist forming. I only have to form it once or twice an then let it set. Pull the weapon out after about 1 hour and let it air dry. Seems to work for me. As far as the 9/10 oz. leather.....I only use that heavier oz. leather for a full size steel 1911 or a large frame revolver. I tend to go on the lighter side of the house ........for me , a concealment holster should be as thin as possible and still do the job. I mostly use 6-7 oz. as most pistols these days are fairly lightweight. Some may say stay w/the heavier weight and others may say go lighter. It really is a personal preference. Semper-fi Mike

A thing of beauty, indeed. Nice colors. Perhaps a lawman will win it and wear it as a practical showpiece/workpiece. Great job Semper-fi Mike

Gregintenn, I stand corrected and humbly apologize. I stand by my statement.............they are nice looking holsters. Semper-fi Mike

gregintenn, Nice looking holsters. The do look a lot like the "Simply-Rugged" sour-dough design. If that is the case, and I may be barking up the wrong tree, we as leather-smiths need to be giving credence to the originators of the designs we borrow ideas from. If I am wrong, I stand corrrected. Semper-fi Mike

SMG, The EVOO make the holster look professional built. My 2 non-cents. and that just it, my own opinion, is that anything over 2 colors (you have them..black and natural) tends to get to busy. It then looks like something that was in a coloring book contest. Although, it is yours, it will be a concealed holster, and you can do anything you wish!!!!!! The holster looks perfect as it stands. That my story and arm-stickin'-to-it!!!!! Semper-fi MIke

SMG, I don't know how others feel, but I wouldn't touch a thing, 'ceptin maybe EVOO it. amn, thats nice. Nice smokepole too. Would like to own one, but not in the cards at the moment. Semper-fi Mike

Snakebyte, Homemade brew that is waterproof, not shiny, wont crack blister or peel. How can it get any better!! Oh, and its cheap to make. Got the concoction from Dwight. 3 eaqua parts by weight, not volume. beeswax, parrafin wax, neatsfoot oil. Heat on stove and melt together. Pour in empty tuna can or the like. Let cool and solidify. Let dye set for 14 hours and apply. Rub into leather and create so heat. (could use a hair dryer, I guess) the let dry and buff out. Too easy. Hope this helps. Nice holster, by the way. I wouldn't do anything to the sting-ray side. The sting-ray didn't need anything when he was swimming in the salt water!!! Semper-fi MIke

Kyleather, I've never made a bracer, but I would think it should have the edge treatment. My best advice on edging is to go to the "How do I do it" section and find Bob Parks (HidePounder) Finishing Edges Tutorial and follow his advice. It is primo. A far as dying the inside, I myself, would advise against it. Sweat will make anything bleed, except, "vinegar black". My "waterproof", finishing treatment is a home-made brew gleaned from "Dwight" and it is a dandy. By weight, not volume,.....1 part beeswax, 1 part parafin wax (canning wax available at any grocery or wal-mart, 1 part neatsfoot oil. Heat mixture on stove and melt and mix together. Pour into a small container like a empty tuna can or the like. Let it solidify. After leather is dyed and set for 24 hrs, rub this well into the leather (outside smooth part) and then buff. Bod-a-bing....waterproof, don't stink, ain't sticky and isn't shiny and won't crack. Do this ever-so-often. Other leather workers may have other ideas. Pick-ur-poison and enjoy!!!!!! Hope this helps and welcome. Semper-fi Mike

Cattle Hide, I will add my 2-non-cents, although the last 3 posters have covered the bases quite well. Leather is skin...plain and simple. Skin on people, demands the same care when it gets dried out. We put lotion on our skin when it is dried out. Whats the difference. I respectfully dis-agree, with "Bear-Man", only to the extent that I don't liberally apply the neatsfoot oil. I apply a "light" coating to the exterior after casing and forming. Again, as you stated, ask 12 people and get 12 different answers. Being a new convert to "leather", don't try to re-invent the wheel, I believe when we start out in this endevor, we make it to difficult . The leather artists that are on this forum, have untold experience and have done the homework for you. Take what they have to offer. They all give it willingly and have years of talent. Don't go out and spend a lot of $$$$$$ on stuff that you'll find is un-usable to yourself as a new artist. I've done this for years and still sew by hand. I do not do this as a business, I do it as a hobby, there-fore cannot justify a big expense. Buy a single shoulder of good quality, some simple hand tools and see how it works out for you. Just my opinion and it ain't worth a whole lot, except to me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Anyways, welcome and Semper-fi MIke

Stealfdawg, Nice pieces, all. To each his own and, I, like Mike and BigO, am by no way, shape or form, claim to know very much at all, about the art of holstery. And thats what it is......an art form. You have accomplished that and your work is a extention of yourself and of those who request your talent. I agree with Mike, in that the separate added piece really isn't necessary if the right leather weight is used. I personally think it detracts from the beauty of the piece and is unnecessary, unless requested or is your trademark. If the holster is a concealment piece, it just adds to the undesireable thickness, as most CCW's need to be as streamlined as possible. Secondly, as Mike and BigO have already stated, the boneing and detail in the trigger-guard areas is a bit much. I hope these observations are just that...observations. The holsters are intense and pieces of art that are truly georgeous. Your designs in the leather are very good and your sewing is spectcular. Keep up the great work and build them as you see fit. Just remember that if some of the requests you may get from customers may sometimes go against what you believe to be safe or condusive to a unsafe outcome, it is better to try to persuade the customer to let you build a safer product or concede his offer. Anyways, enough of my ramblings. Great work. Semper-fi Mike

Kate, Bearman, BRL, Thanks for the intel. Seems like Angelus it is. Semper-fi MIke

Got a request for a green CCW. I've never used any sort of green colors on leather. Any suggestions.....brand name.......where to purchase....etc. One stipulation...no water based dyes. Thanks Semper-fi MIke

ClayB and CTS..... make up your own potient. Mix by weight, not volume and rub it in just like you were spit-shining a boot. 1/3rd part bees-wax, 1/3rd part parrafin wax (canning wax) 1/3 part neatsfoot . Waterproof, won't crack, not shiny, cheap!!!!!!! Semper-fi Mike

I cut my slots dry. My process is to punch two holes 1-1/2 inches apart and then connect-the-holes with a wood chisel. I believe the secret is 1) As Rayban mentioned-do it when the leather is damp 2) My preferred method is dry leather and rub bee's wax or glyceryn soap on the cutting tool. That lets the punch glide through the leather without it splitting or cracking. Rub the wax or soap on the outside AND inside of the oblong punch. Semper-fi Mike

manji, Same same as above. Minimum of 24 hours and then if you apply finish with dauber, rag, wool etc. and you see dye residue on the applicator, you may want to let it set longer before continueing. If you spray the finish, 24 hrs should be plenty of time. Semper-fi MIke