Alan Bell

Very nice work!! Vaya con Dios, Alan

Yes and no to it all being a matter of preference. Some don't bevel at all, some grain, some flesh and grain on rawhide. There are several reasons to do it either way. Rawhide is always drying and dying from the time it leaves the critter till the time it returns to dust. The strength of each strand is in the grain side. So some don't bevel at all. The problem is that as rawhide dries the edges may curl and become sharp. So some bevel the top. This also helps the strands lay flatter as they weave in and out. As one string goes over the next it has a slope to go up and down and the outer surface of the brainwork stays smoother! But each strand is a little weaker from losing the edge on the grain side. Some feel if it lays smoother with top edge beveled the better still with bottom beveled too! But again you've weakened each strand that much more. And it takes twice as long now. If you only beveled the flesh side to maintain the strength of the grain side it still may curl and become rough so we end up beveling rawhide on the grain side only. Now you know the reason for each different way of doing it so you can decide how you want to do it and explain your choice to those that come after asking you what to do! Hope I don't sound rude answering this Brandon not my intention! Vaya con Dios, Alan

Amanda, generally speaking, for rawhide you bevel the grain side ONLY, leather the flesh side ONLY. Vaya con Dios, Alan

Someone was asking me if you had responded just today! Perfect timing! Will do Clint.

Looks to me like 1) you didn't stir the hide in the lime bath often enough and the hide burned there where it was probably folded over in the barrel and lime was trapped on that spot. AND/OR 2) you didn't neutralize the lime in a vinegar bath after de-hairing and before stretching in the frame. In either one of these cases that spot is not going to be good for anything but maybe a core to a hack. MAYBE! Vaya con Dios, Alan

Will do Brent.

GO ON WIT' YO BADDD SEF!!!

Not to be crude but the problem is not the type of core but how YOU make it. A braided core, like a reata, as you stated is the same and should be braided VERY tight!!! A good reata will need to be pulled through holes to soften it up to use! Fresh off the bench it should be too stiff and need to be broken in! Bill Dorrance wore leather gloves AND a "skirt" of a damp hemp sack and would pull each strand behind his hip and lean back! I'm going to make a "reata" braider" setup I saw Granny Martin use that is basically a 2x4 with a narrow v in the end. Below the v a hole is drilled angled down say 5/8 dia. And a 3/4 dowel about 16" long with 4" cut Dow to fit into tha hole in the 2x4. Each strand is wrapped around the dowel and pulled into the v which blocks the other strands and tightens the braid. I'll post pics when I build it. Also consider this, folks now are riding in rope halters how stiff do you need a hack to be?? It isn't the stiffness that makes a hack a good tool it is the weight of the heelknot and length of the nosebutton. IMHO the stiffer they are, the less responsive. The soft ones require the rider to be MORE communicative and have "better hands" or else cable cores would be the standard! Twisted cores will work and don't "always" untwist. I have some twisted cores just lying around waiting for me to braid on them I made over a year ago! But you do need to have a way, hand or belt, to sand the edges of a twisted core once it dries. Also, always pull, stretch and dry every core before braiding over it. I nail mine to a board and set them in the sun several days! In doors would take weeks! Best to make several cores and set the aside to use later. Braid some hobbles or a quirt while the bosal cores cure. As always consider fit form and function when making braided gear! Hope this helps. Vaya con Dios, Alan

Done! Thank you!

Just reminding everyone (Rawhide1, Rob G., Rawhide etc.) that I'm putting together a seminar with Nate in this area this summer! I'll let you know the date soon. $100/day sat and sun. Beginner to advance just bring along a project and Nate will help you advance from where you are! 12 people max so Nate can focus and give each person attention where needed. I'm making a list and have 7 so far! Don't miss this opportunity to learn hands on from one of the worlds greatest braiders! Vaya con DIos, Alan

My advice is to go ahead and get precut lace from Tandy/Leather Factory. Learning is learning wether lace or cord except with lace you must keep the flesh side down and the grain side up (top vs bottom) If your goal is leather why waste time learning on cord? You can practice with either and you are just extending the learning process unnecessarily by starting w/cord. You'll learn the patterns the same either way nut you'll still have to learn to keep the lace right side up! IMHO. if you are near DFW Texas you might consider coming to the braiding seminar I'm hosting w/ Nate Wald! Price will be $100/day for a Saturday and Sunday! Excellent opportunity to learn from one of the worlds top braiders! I'm working on setting the dates! Have about 5 slots left open as Nate only wants 12 maximum. Vaya con Dios, Alan

While you may be able to repair gear you dont actually use you should not create any gear you don't not know how to use yourself! A person that does not drive can fix my car but I want someone that knows about driving to build it! There are things to be considered that are important to the horse and rider! The person who walks might not think about how well your brakes need to work! Same with the fit, form and function of braided horse tack! If you are hoping to build a reputation.... You will!! Make sure it is a GOOD reputation! Try and find this customer someone qualified to fill her tack needs and your reputation as a caring, helpful person WILL be GOOD! Vaya con Dios, Alan

Don't know if I'm to late to be of any help but the twist actually happens as you start the turn back no matter the method, spiraling or braiding down. You have to be careful that as you pull each strand through making pairs ( in the braiding method) or making the first pass inthe spiral method, that you don't pull a twist into your foundation. And nondisrespectmtommy friend Bryan but the easiest way to braid a noseband is the way that works FOR YOU!' Vaya con Dios, Alan

The price is $100/day for a sat. sun. Not sure when exactly. The format Nate likes is for everyone to bring a current project that way all levels get included and we work from where each of us are at improving from there. Lilpep, El Paso is my hometown! I might try to include a rawhide making and lace cutting session too. Maximum attendance for Nate is 12 so reservations are needed. I'll firm up a date and venue w/Nate in the next few days and let everybody know so we can start reserving spots. Vaya con Dios, Alan

Thanks KingsX! Hope you can make it Mike! And Leatherpownder, EVERYBODY wishes they were closer to TEXAS!

I'm trying to see who is really interested in attending a braiding seminar with Nate Wald and possibly others and what you would like to cover? The topics might help determine the location ( Dallas or Greenville ) for Nate to do it there may be a necessary minimum attendance number to make it worth his time. Serious responses please! Vaya con Dios, Alan Bell

Hey Mike, sorry for the delayed response but here is my .02: If my body is 1/4" lace then my nose is 1/8" lace or smaller. We want the nose band to be the smoothest part of a bosal. Of course we want it all smooth but the nose band should be REALLY smooth. Next, I would stick with no pattern changes till you've done quite a few and then a few more. Don't try calculus while you are still learning your times tables. I admire your adventuring spirit but I guarantee you will get there faster by going slower. Next, when we braid and it is lying straight that is one thing but once the braid is finished and we bend it things change. There should be bunching up on the inside and gaps on the outside. With a no swell nose band we must braid really tight so that there will be excessive bunching on the inside to keep from having large gaps on the outside. If I braid one 7 1/2" long laid out flat the inside will measure about 6 3/4 - 7" and the outside will be 7 3/4 - 8 when bent. Those changes must come from somewhere. With a swell nose (and somewhat with a flat) the bunching up on the inside makes a flat area. I like to take my rub stick and flatten it out some more because it is what rest on the bony part of the horses nose. Now by flattening out that area I've created a shelf sorta or at least put more rawhide in contact to spread the bosals weight over a greater area. One reason I prefer a swell nose over a flat nose. Fit, form and function, get that down first and then worry about fancy, by then fancy will be easy! Vaya con Dios, Alan

Thanks everyone! The saddle rides nice! Really comfortable seat if I do say so myself! Denise it is the tree made for me that came with Chris's tree ( moved my files and can't locate number) I'll be calling later today to order some trees! How long is the wait up to now?

Here are some pics of a saddle I made for myself, I'll try and get some close ups later but wanted to post it here. It is on a Nikkel tree, Hermann Oak leather fully tooled, 22" tapaderos, latigo wrapped 3X4 horn, 4" cantle, crossover rope strap, wrapped and set stirrups. Any comments, critiques etc. welcome and appreciated! Vaya con Dios, Alan

This is the latest saddle I made for a fellow in NM. Nikkel tree. Vaya con Dios, Alan