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Aven

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Posts posted by Aven

  1. Posted · Report reply

    19 hours ago, Mablung said:

    Hoping to get them done today and posted. How to do the dart @Aven described finally clicked in my head, so I tried it last night. I WAY overdid the dart, so I need to redo one upper, but I know now I got the idea basically right. I just need to tinker with the height and width of the dart to get it right. The leather I’m using is 5.5 oz., so I need to make it less dramatic than I thought I would. 

    Shoes are so deceptive, 1/4" change is huge.  Darts like the one you have in your picture work well enough to bring in the top line or to tuck the leather up around the heel. Contrasting thread color will make them a cool accent.

    If you find that they aren't quite what you need, I would suggest you go back to the Velle pattern and look at the curved heel. Use that pattern  Try it out on some scrap. No need to cut the whole side out, just the curve.  Cut it out on pieces that are at least two inches wide and sew it up. Put that up against your heel and see how it fits.  If the middle bit poofs away from your heel, make the curve a little bit flatter.  If the top/ bottom gap, make the curve a tiny bit tighter.  Putz around with scrap until you get the fit that works for your feet.  Don't forget to keep a copy of the curve so you can use it for all the other shoes you are going to make. (Insert big cheesy grin)  .  Thin box cardboard works okay.

    Check out Kamsnaps. They have a grommet setters and the dies that might sort things out for you.  Its a tad bit spendy, but worth it in the long run if all the eyelets you set are set perfectly.   And remember its important that there is

     

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Since linen is a natural product, it will dry out and/or rot.  Shoemakers (cordwainers) would use hand wax (coad) on the threads.  They had two different types, hard for summer (hard enough not to be a mess in the heat) and soft (so it would work into the threads)  for winter. There are few threads on coad. Sorrell Notions was the one place I knew of to find it, but it looks like Lisa isn't carrying it any longer.  You'll might have to make your own.

    JCUK is spot on about using the correct size hole with the correct size thread.  You want a hole that will get plugged if you will with the wax on the thread.  While sewing with the thread, once and done won't work.  With each pull through a hole, the wax is scrapped off a bit, so you will need to rewax the thread as you sew.  If your hole/thread size is correct, back stitching will hold it.  And if you waxed your thread enough, no glue will work.  It can't get to the thread because its coated with wax.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Steel bristles might be easier to start with. And you can buy a single guitar string size in bulk.  Or you can hit up your musician friends for the E string when they change their strings.

    The boar bristle has to be split just right down to a certain point.  The thread is laid in the split and then the hard part begins, doing the magical incantations and hand movements to get the tread and the bristle to be come one.  I still can't find the video on threading onto the boar bristle.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    They are still used, but not like they once were.  Now monofilament or split steel is the use for the needles.  I had a bookmark of someone going through the whole process of waxing the individual linen threads together, tapering the bundle, which is what you have there, and then winding a bundle onto a needle, but I can't find it.

    If you go to about 29:45 you can see him using the inseaming awl and then the needles with the thread attached.  Looks like monofilament to me.  At 29:50 he using the awl again and you can see the tail of the thread on the right side of the screen. That's the "needle".  Because the needle is the same thickness as the thread, it doesn't require a large hole to get the works through.

     

      Loafers Made by a traditional method

  10. Posted · Report reply

    I've made something similar for bike riders with long hair.  Their hair got wrapped in one of these after it got braided.  It needed to be a bit stretchy to grip the braid tightly.  I went with snaps because of the thought of hair getting caught up in the velcro and getting damaged.  No everyone is blessed with thick healthy hair.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    I am not an expert by any means. I have only made unlasted shoes.  But if I was making shoes for someone with high arches, I wouldn't adjust the last.  I feel its going to be easier to put inserts in the shoes and tweak them than it is to adjust the shoes and last.

    How do you like the lasts from podohub?  I just ordered a pair and I'm a bit excited to try lasted shoes.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    12 hours ago, Mablung said:

    Indeed. I love my work, but sometimes I’d rather be making shoes. 
    Appreciate the offer. I was thinking of PM’ing you anyway, as something about the issue isn’t clicking in my head. I’ll do so once I sit back down with my pieces and can start working it out. 

    Shoot me a PM when you get back into it. I'm always happy to talk about shoes.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Just now, Mablung said:

    Definitely have the spark. Just haven’t had the time. Trying to figure out how to adjust the overall dimensions and get the dart at the back right. Been busy with work, though. 

    Work,  that evil necessity that can take us way from what we want to be doing.

    If you want to chat about it, you know where I hang out.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    13 minutes ago, DieselTech said:

    Yeah I think blue & orange look good together.

    That is a good combo.

    Yeah, I defiantly have to work on my photography skills.  They are actually a darker chocolate brown and a lighter Signal Corps orange thread.  I see another rabbit hole to fall down.

     

  17. Posted · Report reply

    27 minutes ago, Mablung said:

    Fantastic. I love those. Stirring me to go finish redesigning the heel piece for my chukkas. 

    I hope you find the spark to go and do it.  The worst thing that can happen is that it didn't work out the way you wanted, but even then you will learn something and you'll be better prepared for the next attempt. 

  19. Posted · Report reply

    My son asked for a pair of moccasins so I thought I would check out Dieselpunk's moccasins pattern.  The pattern was easy to follow and put together.  It took me a day to cut out, punch the holes and sew per shoe.  Bear in mind I have old hands and a messed up shoulder..  So for others I think it is easily doable in a weekend.

    I uses Kudu Chromexcel 4/5 oz.  Its a oil tanned leather that I think will wear hard. 

    If you are thinking about/wanting to make shoes, but don't want to jump into it because of all the specialized tools/equipment that you need for traditional style shoe construction, I think this is a good way to dip your toes in the water..

    Mocassins copy.jpg

  20. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Dwight said:

    I'd like to see a bunch of pictures of it

    May God bless,

    Dwight

    Dwight, here's a link to Amazon.

     

    1 hour ago, DieselTech said:

    Isn't it a copy of a singer 29-71 or 73 or something like that. 

    I think I looked at them, cause I thought about going that route. Is it similar to this?

     

    Yes.  That's one of them.

     

    27 minutes ago, kgg said:

    As per the advert it is a 2972B which is a cloneof the Singer 29K72.

    Yes they are a major step up from the "Tinkers Delight". Up here in Canada they range from $740 CAD ($547USD) to $1600 CAD ($1189 USD) with free delivery. They appear to be the same machines supplied by different vendors. I almost bought one but came across a decent Singer 29K72 with a treadle stand for $400 CAD ($300 USD). I don't know how the quality is in comparison to the more costly 29K clones dealer machines but there is a substantial price difference, $2500 CAD plus shipping versus $740 CAD with free shipping. That is about a $2000 difference when you factor in the cost of shipping. That money could be put into other equipment / supplies. Definitely something to consider.

    kgg 

    I agree kgg.  That is enough of a difference in price to really consider getting one.  I mostly make shoes so the patcher does what I need.  I've torn up my shoulder, dominate hand of course and I think I am about as healed up as I am going to get and while it still bothers me, I'm not at the point of being willing to let a VA surgeon get in there up to his elbows and mucking around.  I hand stitched my last pair a couple of weeks ago.  The sewing was okay, but the punching was an ordeal.  Now I'm looking at ways to work smarter without a lot of investment. 

    Since it is at a relatively attractive price point I had hopes that someone had one in their shop and could give their thoughts.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    We are all familiar with the $100 Chinese Patcher.  Its pros and cons have been the topic of several threads.  But there is another patcher available on Amazon, well actually two that look to be a major step up from the $100 tinkers delights.  There is YEQIN 2973 Cylinder Long Arm Patcher and a short arm version.

    The body looks like its cast iron, but its not specified in the description.  It features Features: -18" long cylinder arm,  large bobbin,   360 degree rotating presser foot for sewing in any direction,  1/4" sewing capacity, can be manually operated manually with the handwheel but there is also setup so that it can motorized.  The handwheel can be moved to the front of the machine.  It uses needle sizes 16 to 22, needle system 135x17.  It can sew cotton, nylon and polyester, thread sizes 46 to 138.

    The prices range for the long arm from $650 to $1200 depending on the vendor.  The short arm goes from $399 to $700. 

     

    Has anyone picked up one of these?  It looks like it might be a viable option for a small shop or someone getting started.

     

  23. Posted · Report reply

    3 hours ago, jcuk said:

    Have to say i am more worried about the tea shortage that may be coming, it might mean i have to start drinking coffee.

    I have to go to a leather working forum to hear about this. Jcuk, thank you for the heads up.  Just ordered two 100 count boxes of Taylor's Scottish Breakfast. I think I will go back and order more.  I can't imagine starting the day without a proper cuppa.

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