sniper

Very good questions...I'll be watching to see what answers you receive.

Until now, my projects have been rather simple, and Tandy products have been O.K. Now, I started looking at my latest project...a belt for Christmas for my son, and I noticed the blanks and keeper were adequate for the project, but still rather thin and flimsy. Are there other suppliers of leather products that offer more substantial choices?

I glued two pieces of wood to a thick paint stirrer stick, and the slot is just right for my belts. I got the center piece a bit crooked, but not enough to matter. I also bought a burnisher that I can use with my drill press, but haven't had a lot of success using it ...any hints?

Thanks, all, especially Dwight! Your video answered most of my questions! Wish everyone on YouTube were as clear and concise as you!

I have two Tandy belt blanks, which I want to make into a sturdy holster belt. I want to stitch it all around the edges. I presume I should glue it first, but when I glue it, should it be curved somehow, so when it is worn, the glue between the layers will not be stressed. Or is Barge Cement or Weldwood Contact Cement flexible enough that it can withstand that sort of stress?

WOW!

Hello; I have a kind of a newbie problem...I recently bought (shame on me!) a couple of belts, because my last three efforts have been..shall we say...less that outstanding! I now have 2 belts, two self-made holsters, and a pair of G.I intermediate cold weather boots for Winter, which appear to be "rough out" finished, appearing sort of like suede, and a knife sheath that am wanting to protect, without changing the color. When I bought one of the belts, I asked the maker how I would take care of it, and was answered; "Use any clear leather dressing." What's that? I researched Amazon, and still have no idea of a product that I can use on all of them. Recommendations, please! I have attached some pixes to give a better idea. You can't see much of the holster behind the revolver, but it is basically the same construction as the middle picture, and the belt shows up pretty good. The toughie is the knife sheath that is Stingray hide laminated to~ 5 oz. leather. Thanx for any help you can give!

After a bit of a hiatus, due to wife's ill health causing a slump in everything, shooting, photography, reloading, and leatherwork, during which I made only one item...a sheath for my new axe, She is better, and I am getting the urge to do something leathery. I have all the materials to make a gunbelt...two layers, edge stitched, and carved...well, actually basetweave stamped. This is a bit more complicated than anything I have attempted so far, and I figure, if anyone can help me, it will be the folks here. Now, my questions... 1. I have some contact cement purchased at my last Tandy store visit. Is this good enough glue to fasten two layers of leather permanently? 2. Gluing the two layers together, is it necessary to put a curve it it, to prevent stretching the glue when I wear it, and possibly having the bond fail sometime during the life of the belt? 3. the belt is 1 1/2 inches wide, and I will put a stitching crease 1/8 in. from each edge. How many rows of the Tandy medium size basketweave stamping can I fit in the left over 1 1/4 inches, if I use the diagonal stamping process? 2?...3? 4. is there something better than blue painter's tape to put on the back of the stamped layer, to keep it from stretching? 5. I will hand stitch the belt, using my set of ChiCom pricking tools for marks to drill the holes with my drill press. I have used 1/16 in. bits, but is there a larger size I should consider using for ease in stitching? Any recommendations will be carefully considered. Thank you!

Like, WOW! man!

Well, guys, I have to agree...but, my empahsis has always been on working knives and utilitarian sheaths...especially for a 12 year old. He weas this one out, and I'll make him a prettier one. Even my personal knife...a Helle #99 blade.( I love the Scandinavian form factor,even modded for contemporary tastes. Desert Ironwood handle with Cocobolo end cap, reconstituted Turquoise and Bone Corian. I didn't have Bloodwood thin enough for the spacers, soooo...vulcanized fiber!. Anyway, the sheath is also somewhat utilitarian: I got a really good deal on a black Stingray hide, and laminated it to 6oz. tooling shoulder. It didn't water form as well as I had hoped, and the perimeter hand stitching! Hoo boy! My fingers were sore for a week! But, I am happy with it for my first (and likely last) attempt with $tingray! Hey, if it was easy everybody could do it!

Not ornate, just utilitarian. A knife and sheath I just completed for my grandson's 12th birthday. He is an avid hunter.

Bob; Thanks much for your clear and understandable explanation! That is one area I have been having a fit with...casing. Seems like it's wet... wait...tap tap tap...spray...wait..., and the burnishing is not what I would like. Soooo.. I'm going to try your method...it couldn't hurt!

Welcome from another Utahn! That is a fine -looking Schmidt-Rubin you have there!

I had a problem with my spring clamps marking the leather when I glued up a project. First, I used pieces of paint stirring sticks between the clamp and the leather. Now, I have a couple of pieces of scrap cut to generally fit knife sheaths or holsters,and I use them. Seems to work just fine so far.

Thanks; If I remember correctly, I modified the .45 pattern from Stohlman's "How to Make Holsters" book to make this one, because I didn't like the other choices.