jasonsmith

I was looking around for Fiebing's Pro Oil Dye in black in 32 ounce and came across the 'ST Leather' website: https://stleather.com/ I see that they have veg tooling leather, A grade, cut in square feet priced at $5.50 – $7.99 depending on the weight. Website: https://stleather.com/product/tooling-cowhide-craftsman-natual-side-a-grade-sold-by-sqft/ Anyone buy from here? Is this good quality leather for tooling and dying, or is it junk leather? I was thinking of maybe buying some dye there and grab some extra square feet of tooling leather for cheap. Thanks

My question to others was which sealers that are sold at traditional leather shops have a satin sheen that is consistent to apply? Other than Eco Flo Satin as I have that. As I was placing an order for more dye and wanted to try another satin sheen. I did try Angelus Matte in the past that was too shiny and plastic looking. It's possible there isn't any other. I'm not using floor cleaner on my leather. It doesn't matter how much you want to whine about it. It's never gonna happen. Since you want to keep lobbing insults and keep trying to bully me into using Mop and Glo. I want you to stay out of any threads I start. Go cry in someone else's thread. Are we clear on that? And I've read many people who say to avoid using Mop and Glo on leather with problems of it cracking. I'm not using it, stop talking about Mop and Glo. It's like dealing with a child who doesn't know what "no" means.

Copy and paste what comments I made that you are calling "rude". I've been nice and polite. Here's my initial response. I think I was friendly: "Thanks, but I'm going to stick with traditional leather sealers like Feibing's, Angelus, or Eco-Flo, etc. I think acrylic is probably what I'm going to end up going with due to weatherproofing, though not sure what else may be out there as it's been 10 years. I'm looking at starting to sell pieces and so wanted to do some research on a more durable sealer, if there is one that stays satin. I used Eco-Flo satin sheen 10 years ago when I did this as a hobby for a while. Not sure if the Angelus matte or satin sealer maintains a satin sheen and is more durable, or if there is something by Feibing's. As I know there is stuff in the spray cans, but hoped to get some suggestions so I can buy say 3 to try out instead of 10."

I've been a member for 13 years. I've not been an "ass" to anyone. I'm the one who started this thread. I'm not using Mop and Glo, never will. I've already got a new bottle of Eco Flo Satin sheen that I'll be using unless I come across another true satin sheen sealer when I order more dye.

You came into my thread, not to add to the discussion, but just to lob insults at me because you are upset because you saw that I declined to use an alternative product that you appear to be passionate about. I see the same thing in auto forums regarding people getting upset because they see someone decide not to use their favorite motor oil. So weird. And my "ignorance" as you call it is one reason why I'd want to stick with traditional leather products instead of venturing off into using house products. You can use whatever you want to seal leather, just stop pouring it on your pancakes.

What attitude? I appreciate suggestions, but my obligation is to decide for myself. I politely declined using a floor sealer on my leather as I am going to stick with traditional sealers made for the purpose. Then a couple of other people decided to wreck my thread stopping by just to criticize me because I declined to buy Mop and Glo and pour it on an expensive piece of leather. Sounds like gatekeeping. People can use whatever they want. I don't get upset if someone decides not to use a product that I think is the correct one to use. This is like someone getting upset because I use Feibing's Pro Oil dye instead of vinegroon for my black. I just don't see the point in trying to brow beat me into buying Mop and Glo. Is it a sponsor of the forum? I know some forums like to gatekeep on what products you use to those that are sponsors of the forum.

What exactly is your issue? I asked for suggestions on satin sealers, specifically sealers sold at leather shops. Someone responded suggesting I use floor sealer. I responded politely that I wasn't interested in using floor sealer, but was going to stick with traditional sealers sold at leather shops. Why do you think I'm obligated to go to the store, buy floor sealer, and smear it on a piece of $25 leather to check out? Why is it silly that I've never used floor sealer on a piece of leather? My position is people can use whatever they want. Are you sponsored by Mop and Glo? Sounds like gatekeeping.

I looked around and see some mention that stuff cracking. But anyone is free to use what they want. But I'll stick with sealers sold at leathershops as I plan to sell pieces and so wouldn't even want to risk a complication by using floor sealer. Also, sealer goes a long way, so don't even see the reason to use a floor product. The expensive part is the dye. I looked around and see I tried Angelus Matte finisher back then also, but found it to be too glossy like plastic. I'll probably look at just sticking with Eco Flo Satin Sheen for the time being I also noticed disclaimers on websites of these acrylic sealers saying if they get frozen during shipment, then they are ruined.

I used Eco Flo Satin sheen last time I made a bunch of leather products as I did some testing at that time and went with that one. There are lots of different sealers like Angelus satin finisher, etc. for sale at leather supply shops. Looking to see what permanent satin sheens people have used that don't look like plastic and are consistent in application. i.e. easy to get a satin sheen every time as some are finicky in how glossy it looks. It's been a while since I've messed with it and had planned to buy some different sealers when I order more dye to do some testing as I didn't really want to buy like 8 different kinds just to find most of them end up being high gloss. I'm not putting floor polish on a piece of leather and never asked about floor polish but asked about leather sealer. I had assumed we'd all be talking about sealers you can buy at leather supply shop instead of at a grocery store.

Thanks, but I'm going to stick with traditional leather sealers like Feibing's, Angelus, or Eco-Flo, etc. I think acrylic is probably what I'm going to end up going with due to weatherproofing, though not sure what else may be out there as it's been 10 years. I'm looking at starting to sell pieces and so wanted to do some research on a more durable sealer, if there is one that stays satin. I used Eco-Flo satin sheen 10 years ago when I did this as a hobby for a while. Not sure if the Angelus matte or satin sealer maintains a satin sheen and is more durable, or if there is something by Feibing's. As I know there is stuff in the spray cans, but hoped to get some suggestions so I can buy say 3 to try out instead of 10.

I'm getting back into leather, and plan to try and sell pieces. When I did this years ago as a personal hobby, I bought a bunch of different sealers, i.e. Roseline, Angelus, and Eco-Flo, etc. I was interested in low sheen as I don't like leather that looks like plastic. I use Feibing's Pro Oil dye. I found there are a lot of satin sheens, etc. that come out high gloss. And some that would sometimes come out high gloss or satin. So those would be inconsistent and thus unusable. Anyways, years ago I ended up settling on Eco-Flo Satin Sheen as it was the most consistent of the ones I bought at the time. Though I read that Eco-Flo isn't considered that durable compared to other products. Can anyone recommend satin sheen sealers that are consistent, i.e. easy to get a smooth satin sheen on a 12"x12" piece of leather, and that are durable as it will never be messed with again? As I'll be putting in grommets and spots, so this will be permanent and I want it to have at least water resistant properties, so that makes me think something along the lines of acrylic. I know there are some things that people rub in every so often, but this would need to be permanent where the customer wouldn't ever mess with it. I figured I'd try to get it narrowed down some so I don't have to buy as many different brands to run tests on. Thanks

I looked it up and I may pick one up to try out as it's not too expensive. I think what I'd do is get two trays. And pour some oil in one tray to soak the roller. And then use the 2nd tray to squeeze out the oil so the roller isn't soaked in oil. Maybe I'd use some kraft paper to roll off the excess oil before rolling it on the leather. As a roller would work out I think since my leather pieces are cut from a 12" x 12" piece of leather. Just curious, when you apply Neatsfoot oil. Do you apply it to both sides, or just one side? I'm thinking of maybe just doing the grain side as I know the flesh side can be tricky messing with. As I'll be dying mine black, but it can sometimes come out uneven where I'm hoping the Neatsfoot would darken it more and even it out some. I did learn from a mistake. I cut all the slits for my spots, then dyed the flesh side. And did the Tokonole with glass on the flesh side. And I think the Tokonole got through the slits and made the black dye on the grain side to all weird looking in the areas around the slits. So that piece is ruined. Next piece I do, I'm going to dye the flesh side, do the Tokonole and smooth with glass, and then I'll dye the grain side, do the Neatsfoot, then punch my slits and punch my holes and finish it with a top coat on the grain side. And after I cut it all out, I'll have to dye the edges and maybe wipe on some Tokonole on the edges just to seal off the dye.

The Neatsfoot oil I have is the Feibing's pure. I originally got the Compound but then read of people saying not to use that version. So I took it back and exchanged it. I've been using sponge painters brush to do the dye, but I get some streaks, and so want to be able to do circular method. And so will probably switch over the pieces of wool or something similar where I think you are less likely to get streaks. Not sure if I'd use the wool for the sealer as I'd think you'd get the fibers stuck in the sealer. Last time I did leather work, I used sponge painters brush to do the sealer.

Thanks. What I'll do is run hot water in the sink and let it sit in there for several minutes. The water going to my sink can get pretty hot. Just wondering. When you do Neatsfoot, are you putting it on both sides of the leather, or do you just do one side? And what applicator do you use? i.e. a tshirt?

What I had planned to do is I have new small tupperware containers with lids. My plan was each time I make a new piece, I'd pour some of the neatsfoot into the tupperware, and then microwave that like 10 seconds or something. But I could just fill the sink up with hot water and set the container on the water with the lid on as it would float on top of the water and heat it up that way I guess. How long do you normally leave the neatsfoot in hot water before you use it?

Thanks. I'll have to do more research on if I want to put oil on both sides the flesh and the grain side. Never heard before of it making the flesh side mushy, so will have to do more research to see if I should just stick to oiling the grain side. What do the majority of people do here, both sides, or just the grain or just the flesh side, or no oil at all? I'm getting back into leather as it's been near a decade, and I never put oil into the leather, but figure I may try it on a piece and see how it goes since I had seen several people talk about it, and decided to go with pure Neatsfoot oil, just because I saw it mentioned so much. But I plan to start trying to sell pieces, which is why I'm doing more search instead of just whatever making things for myself. Pretty much I'm making arm gauntlets with spots and grommets, but went with a little thicker leather this time because of the spots prongs denting the leather on pieces I made years ago and because I needed the leather to hold a point and not get droopy.

One thing I forgot to mention is I had read of some saying to warm it up first. So I'd probably put some in a microwaveable plastic bowl and microwave it for like 10 seconds or so depending on how much is in it. Thanks.

They do have those cotton lined foam pads in the auto section that people use to apply wax to cars. But not sure how well that would work on the flesh side as it may keep getting hung up since the flesh side is kind of like sandpaper when trying to rub on it. So in that case, A t-shirt may work better since it may be able spread it better since a cotton shirt can more conform to the rough terrain compared to say one of those waxing pads. Do you oil both the grain and flesh side? I have read of some saying just to do the flesh said. Which I'm not sure if that was so you don't put too much oil into the leather, or if they didn't want their colors darkened on the grain side. I only use Pro Oil Black, so making it darker would probably help hide any splotchiness. Is there any good way to tell, after you've dyed the leather, if it needs oil added to it?

I use Feibing's Pro Oil dye. I'm going to be dying both sides of the leather. And I see many talk about rubbing in some Pure Neatsfoot oil. So I got some as that is what I see people pretty much talk about. Though I believe there may be some other things out there too that would add some oils back into the leather. I plan to dye first, let dry for a day and buff. Then add oil, I'm guessing just one thin coat, and let soak and buff and let sit for a day.. And then put Tokonole on the flesh side and burnish with a piece of glass. And then on the grain side after dying and oiling, that I'd brush on a sealer. Though I've read some say to only oil the flesh side? Would it be better if I only oiled the flesh side, or should be sides get it? But I'm wondering what applicator do people generally use to apply Pure Neatsfoot on the grain and the flesh side of the leather? I'd prefer the applicator to not leave a mess behind. I know the wool stuff can/does leave fibers behind. And recently I decided to try a high density sponge to apply dye to the flesh side, and the sponge pretty much was hard to use on the flesh side and had little pieces coming off. I had to give that up after dying 25% and go back to sponge brushes. Thanks.

I'm interested in this as well. As I just buy the plain veg tan tooling leather in 4-5oz or 5-6oz. And I've only ever bought leather at a Tandy store. And I'd have to go through the piles of leather to pick out the pieces that don't have any holes or massive damaged areas. I was at a store a few months ago that had a really nice side in 4-5oz with no holes for $80. I should have bought it, but I ended up getting a smaller piece. One thing is the Tandy stores used to cut pieces. So if they had a shoulder, they'd cut it in half and sell you a half shoulder. Well, it looks like they don't do that anymore and you have to buy the whole piece. I'd get them to cut smaller pieces so I could get pieces that didn't have any holes in it. But I don't want to spend the gas money on driving out of town to a Tandy to check out what they have, but I'd like to buy something similarly priced online, but I'd need it where there isn't any holes in it. Which means I couldn't buy from Tandy online, as while in their stores, they have all different quality pieces in the same bin. So in the store I could pick out a good piece, where as online would be a luck of the draw. I need the kind of tooling leather that is kind of stiff and not too expensive and smooth on the underside. As I don't need anything exotic as what I do is cut out the leather, dye it black and put spots and grommets in it to make leather pieces you tie onto your body with. But I need the leather kind of stiff so pointed ends will hold it's shape and not flop around.

When I've dyed my leather black. I usually have to re-dye it the next day. As I notice usually after it drys, that the flesh side looks splotchy with light colored areas. My guess is the dye absorbs too far into the leather on the flesh side leaving the black looking thin.

Have you noticed any difference compared to just putting on 2 coats of black?

I use the Fiebing's Pro Oil dyes. So there isn't much rub off.

I've read of people dying leather blue or green and then black to get a deep dark black look. I figured I'd try it with the Fiebing's Pro Oil dyes. Just wondering after you dye it blue. How long do you wait till you dye it black? Just wait for a short while till the dye has soaked in and still wet? Or wait a day?

Does it matter what grade steel wool you use? They have fine and coarse steel wool. Don't know if one is better than the other?