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jasonsmith

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Everything posted by jasonsmith

  1. That sounds better as all I plan on doing is a large piece like in the above pic of the black gauntlets I posted. I checked, and the HF has it in stock. I plan on going out of town at some point where there is a HF local. How does that spray gun compare to an HVLP? Can you hook up a regular 1/4" air compressor hose to it? I notice it has a 1/4" - 18 NPS inlet. I believe the air compressor hoses are NPT, but I'll need to double check that.
  2. It was my understanding the airbrush has a narrow spray pattern. So, that I've read it is hard to use on large pieces of leather and getting it even. Which is where I've read people saying to use the HVLP gun to dye large pieces of leather vs. small things like belts, etc. But the airbrush does look easier to use. What do you guys use to clean the airbrush when you are done? Here are a few I'm looking at: www.harborfreight.com/quick-change-airbrush-kit-93506.html -------------------------------------- www.harborfreight.com/airbrush-kit-47791.html ---------------------------------------- www.harborfreight.com/deluxe-airbrush-kit-95810.html That last one looks nice. But has a 1/8” - 27 NPS inlet. And Harbor Freight doesn't sell an air hose with that size. Only one with 1/8" 28 NPS on one end and 1/4" on the other end that goes to the compressor. I also plan on getting a filter since I don't have one.
  3. I say I'll need to contact them on getting some samples instead of waiting on a response to see what the differences are in their blacks. Angelus also has something called "Special Black No. 507" Which has "additional ingredients that allow the dye to penetrate hard and/or difficult leathers. Normally for professional use only." I'll probably look at getting a sample of their Matte and Satin finishes. Though it appears they have two different Satin finishes. One is a "605" and the other is a "615". From what I can tell, it seems the 615 is more of a Satin High Gloss. I do like the look of the pro oil black they used on this leather strap: www.leathersmithdesigns.com/guitar-straps-making.htm BigRiverLeather, What kind of dye prep do you like? I see Angelus has a preparer and deglazer. I don't know if you have to let that stuff dry off before you dye. But Feibings has a dye prep where you rub it in right before you put your dye down. It is supposed to clean the leather and let the dye absorb easier and more evenly. Not sure which would be the better prep to use or if the Feibings would work well with the Angelus dyes?
  4. I'm going to be spraying some leather gauntlets I'm making. They will be black. Any opinion on using an HVLP (High Volume Low Pressure) spray gun vs. Preval to do large areas? The Preval looks easier to use, but have heard some people getting a bad can. I do already have an air compressor and Harbor Freight has a cheap HVLP gun. Just deciding which way to go: http://www.harborfre...-gun-47016.html This is a good example of what I'm making and dying:
  5. Actually, I'm thinking about going with Angelus black instead of the Fiebing's Pro Oil Black. As I've read you don't have to buff the Angelus much compared to the Fiebings. Since I'm new to this, I figure the Angelus would be easier to work with. I'm just waiting on them to get back with me to tell me what the differences are in their 4 different blacks.
  6. I think I'm gonna leave the edges alone. Just dye it. As I don't want shinny edges like the look of the edges in that thread. The only thing I was looking at was getting rid of any fray. But I'd much rather leave it like it is than have a shinny edge. I'm probably looking at using that Preval or a spray gun to dye it. I think that would be the easiest and not worry so much about streaks. Though I saw in my Tandy book, they recommended spraying dye for solid colors but said that it didn't apply for black. I don't know if they feel spraying black wouldn't turn out good, or if they feel you can get by with rubbing it in.
  7. Thanks. I think I'm going to get that Preval sprayer at least for the dye. Not sure if I want to use that for the sealer. That way I don't have to worry so much about streaks.
  8. Thanks. I'm looking at the 1/4" letters. Can I stamp the leather dry? Or do I need to wet the leather down before I stamp? If I have to get it wet, then I'd guess I'd have to let it dry for a day or so before I dye it.
  9. I'm looking at going with Angelus black. I'm waiting on them to get back with me so I can figure out what the difference is between their 4 different blacks. I've read you don't have to buff the Angelus as much compared to the Fiebing's. Some say they weren't able to quit buffing the Fiebing's. Since this is my first time dying. I figured Angelus would be better since it appears to be easier to work with. And I plan on getting the Angelus Matte and Satin sealer to do test pieces on to figure which one I like better. As I've read their Satin can look gloss. I guess it depends on how thick you put it on. Any tips on dying the flesh side of the leather? I'm assuming that is the same as doing the grain side where you buff it then apply the sealer? I would like to clean up all the frays on the bottom and side of the leather. I'm making some large armbands that will tie up down the inside of the forearm via grommets. Should I rub anything on the leather after I dye it to soften it up so it would bend around the arm better? The leather seems pretty stiff as it is, and I figure it would get stiffer after dying it.
  10. I've got a half shoulder piece of leather from Tandy. I think it is around 6 oz. I'm making some large armbands with pyramid studs. And I plan to dye both sides black. I was thinking of getting an alphabet stamp set so I could stamp something like my name on the bottom (flesh) side of the leather. That way if it got stolen or something, I could identify it. Before I buy the set. I was just wondering if you can stamp the flesh side of the leather? I know everyone typically stamps the grain side. I'm wanting to do it on the bottom so it isn't seen. This is the alphabet stamp set I'm looking at going with: I had also thought of this one, but I like the stamp in the above pic better:
  11. Yeah, I'm gonna have to call Angelus to figure out what the difference is in their blacks. Someone dyed some sheaths and used Feibings pro oil black on one. And I really like this black. He said he used leather sheen for the sealer: I've already got this to dye the edge black:
  12. Thanks, I'm gonna try and contact Angelus to see what the difference is between all their blacks. I've never dyed before. So, it sounds like Angelus would work better for a beginner.
  13. I am pretty patient. But have noticed alot of threads here seem to get a ton of views, but very few replys. As in 5. So, I was planning on ordering something already to finish up my project and didn't want months to go by. I have looked around and the only thing I saw with regards to satin sealer. Was that Angelus sells a satin sealer. Whether it is any good or not, who knows. But I'll keep searching. But I found their satin sealer ends up looking like gloss. So, if I got that, then I'd look at Matte even though I've read it ends up looking gloss. I have read about Bag Kote. But don't know how good that will seal compared to the acrylic sealers. So, at this point it is still just a crapshoot of what to get. I'm leaning towards Angelus Matte sealer. I was planning on Fiebings pro oil black. But have read that Angelus dye is easier to work with. But they have like 5 different blacks. So, if I went with Angelus black dye, then I'd have to figure out what black to get. I did see someone made a sheath and dyed it Fiebing pro oil black with a leather sheen as the sealer. I really like the look of the black:
  14. Anyone tried one of the Angelus black vs. Fiebings pro oil black? I see Angelus has like 4-5 different blacks.
  15. How did you like using Angelus vs. Fiebings Pro Oil? I'm deciding between the two.
  16. Bump. I had read the Angelus Matte looks more like Satin.
  17. I've read the Angelus satin sheen looks like the gloss sheen. And to instead use the Matte if you want a satin type sheen.
  18. I was looking for a satin finish. But I've read the Angelus Satin and Gloss pretty much look the same. And to instead go with Matte if you want a satin finish. How does the Angelus black dye compare to Fiebing's Pro Oil black?
  19. How does Angelus's black compare to the Fiebing's Pro Oil black in this pic? I'm making some black armbands. So, I had been looking at using Fiebing's prep dye and Pro Oil black dye. And had been looking for a satin sealer. How does Angelus's acrylic sealer compare to Fiebing's resolene? These armbands will have to bend as they will be tied off on the inside of the forearm using grommets.
  20. Does anyone know of any other leather forums that is better than this one with regards to discussing dyes and sealers? I was planning on placing an order already for the Pro Oil Black dye, Prep seal, and what ever else I needed. I just don't plan on waiting for months to figure this out. Thanks
  21. I'm going to be making an armband with a bunch of pyramid studs and grommets. I plan to dye both the inside and outside to give it a finished look. I've got some 6 oz. natural leather from Tandy's. I plan to use Fiebing's dye prep, and then dye it with Fiebing's Pro Oil Black. I would like to see what would be recommended for a satin sealer that will keep the dye from running and protect it? I don't want super gloss, but something more than matte. I was looking to use Fiebing's Resolene. But wonder if it may be too shinny. I'm going to order my dye, prep, and sealer online. It is a small project, so I don't need quarts. I do already have some Eco Flo Super Shene.
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