jasonsmith

I'm just going by what it says on the package. But I guess only Stanley would know how accurate that information is. Though I believe they are comparing their Fatmax blades being 35% sharper than their own regular blades. So, they aren't saying 35% sharper than every other blade. But I believe the Fatmax and regular blades are priced around the same anyways.

Thanks. Hermann and Oak are sending me some samples as well. That way I can find what looks the best, cuts the easiest, and can be slot punched for my pyramid spots without bending my tools. I'm pretty much looking for black smooth grain leather. The nice thing too is I believe I've read the dyed leather is sealed as well. So, you don't have to worry about the dye coming off on your arm. Getting the samples in sure beats wasting money on buying leather and finding out it is too hard to cut or bends your tools which has happened on 2 different pieces of black dyed leather I've bought.

I dyed some test pieces. And it looks like the leather wants to wrinkle up. Kinda like when you get a piece of cardboard wet and it dryes. It was small pieces though. And maybe I put too much dye on as the dobbers soaked up alot of dye. I think I'm going to look for some drum dyed black leather that I can easily cut and punch and not bother with having to dye.

I'm getting some samples from W/C. Though they will be thicker than what I use. I use 6 ounce. I think they send out 8-10 ounce. But it should give me an idea on how the different types of leather they sell cut. And how easy they can be punched for spots. I did notice W/C sell "Tooling/Holster/Carving" leather in Russet and Black. I'm guessing that leather is similar to the Tandy tooling leather, except that it is dyed. The nice thing about W/C is you can get high grade leather vs. what you get at Tandy. As with Tandy, you have to pick through it as I guess they sell the low grade stuff.

When you say drywall knife. Are you talking about the Stanley drywall blades? I was thinking of trying their FatMax blades that are supposed to be sharper then their regular blades. I also have to shave the edge some after I cut it. Like if I cut leather along a row of pyramid spots. I may have to shave some small slivers of the edge off to help make the edge of the leather flush with the flat spots.

Is this drum dyed leather any good? www.zackwhite.com/product.php?productid=17748&cat=0&page=6

I'm using 6 ounce weight leather and only do straight cuts. I tend to use a box cutter to cut my leather. But was wondering if an X-Acto knife would make a sharper cut? I was thinking of getting the Stanley paper box cutter blades since they are 50% sharper than their regular blade or the FatMax blade that is 35% sharper. But was thinking of getting an X-Acto knife instead. For those that use an X-Acto knife, what blade are you using? I'd need something sharp with a point.

What size punch is used on the Line 20 snaps? None of the sellers of Line 20 spots mention what punch to get.

Yeah, I'm wanting some nice black dyed leather that can easily be cut with a box cutter, and easily be slot punched for spots. Some black dyed leather I've bought before, the blades on my adjustable spot tool bent when trying to punch it. So, the english bridal from WC is easily cut and punched? What black dyed leather did you get that you found to be too hard to cut? This is what I plan on doing, except it will have a bunch of pyramid spots on it:

Why is it the dyed leather is firm? Why can't they get regular leather and dye it like you would if you did it on your own so you can still easily cut and punch it? I'm looking for leather like you get a Tandy's that you can cut and punch. But it is already dyed black.

Where are some good places to get 5/6 ounce drum dyed all the way through BLACK leather that you can easily cut, punch, and stamp? And what is the leather called that you can easily cut, punch, and stamp? When looking for black leather, I see several different kinds. I've bought black leather before, but whatever kind I got. It was very hard to cut as it took a couple of tried to cut. And it was very hard to punch.

Bump. Would like some good suppliers for 5/6 ounce drum dyed BLACK leather that you can easily cut, punch, and stamp.

What finish are you using on the edges? Acrylic sealer? I've got some cutout pieces I plan to dye the front and back in black. And also plan to use the same dye to dye the edges as well. I plan to seal with some Acrylic sealer from Angelus. And planned to use the sealer on the edges as well.

I'm planning on using Angelus dyes and acrylic sealer. Just wondering if anyone uses the Fiebing's Dye Prep or Angelus Preparer and Deglazer? It looks like at least with the Fiebing's. You put the Dye Prep on right before you dye. Which I guess it takes the place of water? I can pick up some Fiebings Dye Prep from Tandy's. I assume that would be fine to use with the Angelus dyes? As it would cost alot more to have to order the Angelus Preparer and Deglazer and get it shipped.

I can't. I'm using 5/6 ounce weight leather which is ideal for line 20 snaps. Line 24 snaps are for 8/9 ounce leather. This is just an armband anyways, and with it being 2" wide. I'll be using 2 snaps. This is a pic I found searching around and this is how I plan to arrange my snaps. Though, I'll only have 2 as it will not be adjustable:

I'm gonna go with the Line 20 since it looks like that is the best. I found that you have to get a $20 setter/anvil kit for the glove snaps. Where as you can get a setter and anvil cheap for the Line 20 snaps.

Thanks. Looks like I'll probably go with the 20 then since I have 5/6 ounce leather. I'm guessing those glove snaps aren't any good compared to the line 20?

Thanks. I'll look into the Line 20. Do you have any info on the Line 16 and Glove snaps with regards to 5/6 ounce leather armbands? I've been looking around, but can't find much info on these with regards to application. But sounds like the Line 20 should work at least. I'd like to get nickel plated brass. I've got some spots that are nickel plated steel, and some that are nickel plasted brass. And the steel will rust. I'll have to check to see if the Tandy's are nickel plated brass or steel.

What's the difference between all of those? I've got 5/6 ounce leather half shoulder from Tandys I plan on making armbands with that will snap together.

I got my 1/4" stamp kit in and did some test pieces. And it worked fine. Only thing is you can see an impression on the grain side. Though, that may get covered up some if you dye it. It would be best to do it on an unseen area from the grain side. I'll have several rows of 1/2" spots on mine. So, I'll just stamp on the underside where the spots will be. That way the spots will cover up the impressions left by the stamp from the flesh side. The nice thing is when I dye the flesh side. You'll still be able to easily see the impression. Though, I will probably do some test pieces where I use a brush to dye the impression grooves and see how that looks.

That sounds good if the Angelus is thinner. As I know if you put it on too thick, it can crack. I'll probably just use a damp sponge and wipe it on with that and let dry. I'll do some test pieces of the Matte and Satin to see if there is a difference. I'm also going to do test pieces of the different Angelus blacks. They have a special black 507 dye that has additional ingredients that allow the dye to penetrate hard and/or difficult leathers. I'm gonna test that as an edge dye since the Fiebings edge dye is too shinny.

Any tips if you wipe it on by hand? I was looking at wiping it on with a damp sponge. I've got some Angelus Matte and Satin acrylic finish on the way. I hope I can get a matte or Satin finish with those. Have you used Fiebings Bag Kote? I've read that stuff does a Satin finish. But not sure how protective it would be compared to the acrylic finish. I know I do not like that plastic look.

How do you apply it to get a matte or satin type finish?

Yeah, I've thought that black would be easier to get even vs. another color. The other thing is you'd probably loose some dye every time you spray since you have to pour it in the large container of spray gun. I think that was one advantage of the Preval since you could keep it in the small jar with a lid and not waste any. Angelus is sending me some samples including their prep and deglazer. So, I'll dye some test pieces by hand to see what that does before I pick up a sprayer. They've got 4 different blacks. I've got some Fiebings black edge dye applicator that I brushed on the backside of some leather. And that seemed to work with no buffing with regards to dying the flesh side. Only thing is it is kinda shiny, which I'd like more of a matte finish for the back. I'll try the Angelus and matte sealer on the back and see what that does. Though the Fiebings stuff was easy to use as there was no buffing and it is waterproof so you don't have to worry about rub off on your arm with regards to dying the back.

Thanks. That larger gun looks like it would work better instead of an air brush since I've got a bigger piece of leather. I know of the quick disconnects. Only thing is it says the gun uses NPS threads where as I believe the usual compressor hose is NPT threads. But I'll have to see if they have some NPS connects.