spurdude101

I have been using Fiebings resolene finish on saddles after cleaning. I use a damp sponge, but it is streaking. any tips on how to apply it without the streaks?

I'd like to add. I have one of these beasts. I never could get it to sew. then I discovered that the shuttle was not advancing completely. so I adjusted the linkage a little shorter so the shuttle completed it's intended path of travel, and suddenly all my problems went away! so now I actually look forward to sewing on it, when before I usually ended up cursing and throwing things.

OMG! UPDATE: I just finished sewing my first job without any issues related to this topic! I was carefully observing the action and inter play of the shuttle/needle/thread. This was not easy as I was cycling the machine by hand with the needle plate partially open. I was jamming still. I noticed on the outside of the shuttle carrier there was a small adjusting screw and a knockout for it in the frame. the carrier was not advancing enough to adjust this screw. being somewhat intelligent and knowing machines have things for a reason, I shortened the throw of the actuating arm so that the carrier advanced enough to access this adjusting screw... Whal-laa.. I tested the machine on some scraps and it sewed without a hitch. I was making a seat cushion and sewed it up no problem! I am so relieved, I thought I was doomed forever. Now this mind you is after I spent $400.00 to have the machine timed, adjusted, and had parts replaced in the walking foot mechanism. I am very frustrated still with this very well known industrial distributor in Denver, Co. I just can not bring myself to purchase anything from them any more.. not thread, needles and certainly not a heavy stitcher. thanks guys, I hope my luck holds.

I guess everyone has their own opinion. I personally think there is a place for speedy stitcher in my tool box. It makes a lock stitch like a machine would do. if care is taken to make sure your tension is consistent I think it does Ok . I use the stitcher that has the stud on outside of the handle. you can thread right off the spool with this one. as for thread size I do believe 207 is very close.

With a size 18 needle, can anyone tell me what is the largest thread I can use in my 2972? I tried looking at the charts, but seem to be confused with the needle size designations. thanks

after reading some, I see this is a waxed linen thread. Can I use a bonded nylon thread? does the size of the thread change with the type of thread? for instance, does a bonded nylon come in 277?

I've read a lot on hear about relining skirts, but not much is mentioned on what type and what size of thread works best. i plan on hand sewing using the old holes. any ideas?

What we call a swastika shows up in many cultures and is a very old symbol. I believe the Navajo used it quite a bit. I would place that saddle at around the turn of the century in New Mexico.

hi Renee, nice find. Typically on a full sized saddle a few tell tale styles would stand out to deternime age. a slick fork sometimes called an "A" fork, this is the shape of the swells or the front of the saddle, the stirrup leathers being seperate and outside of the fenders( this is the wide part that hangs down and protects your leg), also an 8 string, meaning thats how many individual strings are on one side. all these together would indicate a western saddle made before1910 but after about 1885. now however a pony saddle all that goes out the wondow because many commercial manufactures would just copy that style in the post war 1950's thru the 70's. It looks tooled and carved very nicely. I don't think the strings are original because they look too long and new. as for maker, who knows.. Simco made pony saddles, Sears, Wards, JC Penny, all had saddles made or purchased without their makes names. as for the 601 it would be a model number or production number of some kind. These are my thoughts about it, perhaps some else may have a different idea or shed some light... how much did you pay?

thanks guys, I'll revieve my methods and see what happens.

thanks Bob, it's a GB2972. the badge says TYPICAL. I feel completely defeated by this machine. I have a $1000.00 into it and I have nothing but problems. I took it to the only industrial sewing machine house in Denver and they charged me 400.00 to replace the bell crank, called it a piece of excrement. without any thread it will feed and punch holes fine. with thread it will jam, break needles, break thread. sometimes it will sew just long enough to get a small job done, other times it will completely ruin a job. Ive been using a #69 thread. the foot will impact the side of the needle and break thread if in the 180 position. I thought the bell crank would fix that problem. the gear lash is pretty tight, the gears atill have the black finish on them. I don't think this machine has ever seen much use... cause it doesn't sew. I don't know what to do with it.

any ideas on why the thread will jam in the shuttle when I change direction of the butterfly?

I got a GB2972 Typical patcher that drives me nuts. seems it'll sew well for about a dozen or so stitches then Bam! the needle breaks. I think the foot must be moving the work before the needle clears and the next downstroke of the needle hits the needle plate instead of going in the hole. but I'm not sure...any other ideas on how to fix this?

I've been reading quite a bit here about walking foot machines, and all seen to favor the Consew, Techsew, so forth. However I don't see to see much input about the Sailrite machines. they appear to be very similiar to the walking foot machines mentioned. I tink they are made in America, service and warranted here. the new MC-SRC motor system looks very good, I think the industrial model is the 111. any thoughts?

I'm trying to find out the specs on this LU2-400 machine. what kind of feed system, pressor foot lift clearence, what size thread and so forth. would this machine be good for chaps or rifle slings, guitar straps etc. thanks

I was looking at the Highlead GC2268 heavy stitcher. It's a cylinder arm, high lift, 3/4" I believe. Ralf's sewing machine in Denver has a new one with a servo motor for around $2200.00. Anyone have any thoughts on this machine? http://www.sewinggol.../HL-GC2268.html

hello all, I'm covering a loose leaf binder with I 'm guessing 3-4oz. veg tan ( those cheap Tandy "Craftsman" hides) anyway got into a soft spot that lays along the edge, So I would like to firm it up. what to use? I could sandwitch some stiff plastic or cardboard, but do not want to see it. the inside is a very thin pigs skin or a thin synthetic, so no help there. any suggestions?

Thanks for the reply's. help me understand; why would changing needle size and thread help with the track marks?

I read on here some time back, but can't find it. some one figured a way to prevent the walking foot tracks on a finished piece. I like to finish up a piece by dying and stitching last to have nice clean white stitches. but then of course we have the foot marks. I have tried to line with electrical tape both sides of my stitch groove, and this works, but is expensive and time consuming. any ideas?

hello, I had a similar problem. replaced what is called in the parts list a "bell crank" $28.00 part and $400.00 labor!. but thats my story. a "GOOD " shop should be able to do the job for $125.00 total.

Hello all, I have a need for a stamp set of straight bars. say from a quarter inch up to about an inch, in quarter inch incrimments. so like for making a western livestock brand, something that maybe would look like this: ----- / ____. I've used a file edge, or a cold chisle with some success, but these iron tools tend to darken the leather. any suggestions?

I see the 29's have the little cup for a lube. I also see other machines do not. what type of lube is used, and why? someone told me to get some felt and use machine oil and run the thread under the felt. the machine oil didn't sound right to me. how about neetsfoot oil? or a beeswax lanolin mix? thanks. Also why only this machine?

AH, clear as mud!. thanks, Ok that helps. I get the tension thing now. I don't have the "T". now for a good laugh, what is basting? not like a turkey I'm sure...lol I'll look it up..

Well I see in the manual for the 29's it has a seperate tensioner for darning located on the side of the head. why do we need a seperate tensioner for darning? also it seems as though the thread scapes across the sharp side of the head on it's path using this side deal. so confused about all of it. can someone explain how one darns with the darn thing? (pun intended)

I thought I would update those who care just to show how this fiasco turned out. Living 55 miles away and not wanting to get there at lunch time I planned my day around picking up the machine. I arrived a 1 pm only to find a sign on the door "out to lunch, be back in 30 minutes". So, I strolled over to the service building where I found my machine sitting on a shelf and the tech guy seeing me comes walking over rolling his eys and shaking his head looking like the guy who just shot your bird dog and was going to blame it on the pheasant. " That machine is the biggest piece of junk!" you should sell it ASAP!" nice customer service opener I thought. I had to do this and that and no body told me what was wrong so I had to spend a lot of time figuring it out. OK, I want to see the invoice before I get into it, so back over the parts counter to pay and get paper work. sign still on door. At 2 pm I walked around to main enterance (place is set up like a car dealer) nice receptionist say's their in a meeting. don't know when they will be out. is there anyone who can help me? Sorry No! so I wait a while longer when I see my sales guy friend. I ask him what he thinks about the 5 hours labor, and he says talk to parts guy/cashier/owner, that tech guy is old and kinda slow, tell him and he'll adjust the bill for you. great. a few more minutes go by and I see them come out of the meeting and finally get my paper work and I ask parts guy/ owner if he can help me out. He say's " hey I just collect the money" take the paper work over and talk to the tech. What!? so now it's clear, the old circle game. so for at that point I just threw up my hands and paid the darn thing. $421.00. 5 hours labor and a new shuttle, a bell crank, a bobbin, and a couple of screws. no new or used needle bar. Tech gets my machine and starts going over how it wasn't a bent needle bar, but the plate on top that the needle bar rides in that was bent. he took it off and straightend it. repaced the $28.00 Bell crank, which fixed the feed problem. and said I needed a new shuttle because " I just couldn't get the thing to sew" That was $55.00. so how much time spent sewing at $65.00/hour, I don't know. an initial bad diagnosis at the same rate, and who knows. it does sew, and my stitch length seems Ok as does the feeding. so I feel kinda beat up. sorry for the long post, but I figured you guys might like a good laugh! I don't know if I'll go back. I was going to save up and buy a Highlead 2268 off of them, but now I might look elsewhere. thanks guys. Al