spurdude101

I found a seller on ebay classicautotrimnv . not cheap but at least im getting what I need

yes I did, they only sell pre sewn piping. Which I could buy and take apart but it's more expensive paying for materials I don't need plus may have needle holes visible

Looking to find a supplier for wind lace fabric to rehabilitate some old pinch on automotive wind lace. 2 1/2 " wide x 15 feet long. A little out of the leather realm but you guys have always been a great recourse . thanks

Well I've been to Canada where I found it but shipping is $20.00 for a $6.00 item. Nothing in England or China and certainly nothing larger than 1" in this country. Honestly how did we get here? 11/4" Harness spring snap and a simple flat oblong brass 3/4" buckle. Anyone?

Aaron Martin is the only vendor I can find that has what I want . Specifically a bridle snap that will accommodate an 1 3/4" strap. But they are in Canada and American credit cards won't work on their site. It's unbelievable to me this item cannot be located. even Ebay didn't have anything. It seems no matter what web site one goes to it's all the same cheap hardware. I did locate some quality at Springfield Leather but even they only have these snaps to 1 inch. thanks for the lead.

I'm looking for larger 1 1/4 to 2 '' heavy halter snaps, D rings, roller buckles for heavy harness work. forget Buckle guy, ohio travel bag, tandy, Weaver . It seems when it comes to quality hardware there is none. I find most buckles , snaps and such to be junk. anyone have a source for quality?

Bob at Toledo sewing machine sent an inline presser foot set up for the machine. I use the holster plate when I use the set up. It will sew 12 -13 oz. leather really nice and it's great for narrow places. But when I go up in thickness like on a holster binding and increase the thickness to about 16 oz. or more every 5 or 6 stitches misses one stitch. If I watch I can catch it and re do the stitch but what a pain. any ideas? ps. If I switch back to the standard feet I have problem.

What I did with my Cowboy 4500 was take a hot glue gun and coat the presser foot with a glob of hot glue, after it dries take a file or grind off the excess on the underside leaving a 1/16 " of glue material on the foot. Works great. No more metal on leather marks.

I got an email about upcoming terms of service on prohibited items with the Etsy market place where I sell, among other things, holsters . In part it stated " No firearms, or accessories that attach to firearms" Pretty vague in my opinion. I contacted them and asked if this applied to holsters and of course only got back a standard form which did not address my question, So I guess I wait and see if they flag my holsters.

I have been scouring the net for a dummy of a Colt police positive formerly known as Colt New Army Special. You know the revolver all the cops carried in the movies from the 20's thru the 40's. can't find one. even a 1 to 1 toy gun. any help?

Thanks Wiz, I haven't seen the leather rise up. Seems to have good pressure. I'm using 277 thread with the needle Bob sent for that thread. I use the larger holster plate so as not to have to remove the feed dog. I have tried a new needle. I have switched mid project back to the standard needle plate and pressure foot and continued to sew with no problems. The actual pressure foot has a long slot allowing for a slight adjustment downward. I may try to lower it an 1/8th to see if it helps. Thanks. Al

Bought the inline presser foot for the CB4500. I use it with the raised holster plate so I have good contact. It works very well on leather up to about 12 oz. But on thicker projects it starts to skip stitches every 5 or 6 stitches. Anyone have an idea on why?

I have a guy wants a holster for a Springfield 1911, 5 inch slide. My dummy gun is a Colt 1911, 5inch slide. Anyone know if the Springfield 1911 is markedly different from the Colt dummy gun? Thanks

Looking for a bag punch 1 3/4 x 3/8 inch. Quality

Saw this stuff on Ian Atkinson youtube and thought I would try it. My thoughts are it is a little pricey $12.00 for 120g. Has the consistency of Grand moms face cream. It does put a real nice shine on the edges, and does a great job of slicking down the flesh side, but I find in a few days it makes the edges very dry, same with backs. Maybe I am not using it correctly I don't know. All the print is in Japanese. Anyone else use this stuff?

Thanks everyone. I did do a few searches but frankly either did it wrong or was too frustrating to sift through several hundred post titles looking for the needle in the haystack. In any event I tried Northmount's formula and came up with something like 11/64ths which there again I had to just shake my head and figured roughly 3/8" longer. So like everyone suggested, not that much to worry about unless going really up in thickness. thanks

search revealed nothing.

When lining a belt, how much length do you add? For example, If you take an existing 7 oz. belt measurement fold to favorite hole but are building a 12 oz. belt, how much longer does the hole/belt need to be? is there a formula?

Newton Porter open his first saddle shop in Taylor Texas in1875. in 1881 he moved to Abilene, Tx. for 8 years. Settled in Phoenix, Az. 1895 .There he established the N. Porter saddle and Harness co. He died in 1906. his two sons took over the business and ran it into the 30's or 40's. Swastikas, Navajo indian design, were used until 1933. They also used a steer head logo. If you post a picture of the saddle I might be able to help give the time frame it was made. Saddles are a lot like cars. They had styles. Those styles changed with the times. a slick fork, square shirt 8 string high back would be around the turn of the century to about 1915. That's not to say a saddle like that could not be made at any time. If it has the Swastika on it, it would be very collectable and probably bring a good price at auction. hope this helps with your quest.

How can we compete when you can go on Ebay and buy a Wickett & Craig belt, double stitched, edged. with a buckle, 13 oz. made in America for $39.00? I can't buy the parts for that let alone the labor.

Usually not a fan of Eco Flow, but was replacing a belt I made for guy years ago and I used the Saddle Tan Hi liter. I wanted to match what I made so I broke out the Eco Flow. Just nasty Dirty stuff! If you apply it in circles with a dauber and leave it for just a second it will stain where you let it sit and will not blend in to the next application. Use long streaks and let the dauber run out of fluid and literally fade away. then you can start again and it will blend better. But overall the application has an uneven and dirty look to it. If you damped a sponge or paper towel you can clean it up some, but the areas will lighten in color. the more you try to fix it, the worse it gets. Very hard to work a large piece like a belt. maybe a key fob or something small might be alright.

Ive been reading old threads (pun) on the handmade controversy regarding something hand sewn or machine sewn. Having done both it is my opinion that more skill is involved in machine sewing. I base this on the fact that I never ruined a project hand sewing, but have completely ruined or almost ruined projects on a machine. I have sewn out of stitch grooves, had broken needles, broken thread, run out of bobbin thread, had tensions off, skipped stitches, had big items like belts hang up on stuff and interrupt the feed, presser foot marks, and on and on. What I'm saying is while you are sewing it takes complete and total concentration. Having done or knowing all the above things can go wrong, one must use all the senses possibly even smell to avoid ruining a project. So, if one bases the criteria of being handmade on skill of sewing, I think sewing on a machine should not disqualify if that qualification is based solely on skill level.

thank you, that's how I have done it before but thought there might be a trick to doing it better

On Belts with Basket weave stamp there is usually a Camouflage border. Is it best to stamp the Basket first, Or the Border? How is it best to deal with the overlap?

so is Fiebings going to phase out the Leather dye and stop the confusion? And why do people keep claiming that the Pro Dye is an oil dye when it is not? Is there an alternative dye being made that is a true oil dye?