reddevil76

Sold

Have a whole bunch of Barry King carving tools, some Craftool stamps and Barry King basketweaves. Also have 2 Barry Swivel knives, 1 Kyoshin Elle knife with Leather Wranglers blade. And 2 petal lifters. Looking at USD$400 for all. I’m shipping them from Singapore but i’ll absorb the shipping costs cos i need to offload these.

Thanks Wiz...

Are these only for cylinder beds? I have a flat bed Pfaff MA1245

$600 shipped. any takers?

Hi This is everything that I wish to sell. The prices beside are the original prices. 1/8 inch beader blade $253/8 inch barrel with Straight 3/8 inch thick blade $45 7/16 inch barrel with Straight 1/4 inch thin blade $45 Taper 14 oz maul $50 #1 Lifter $25 #2 Lifter $25 #0 Checkered Beveler $25 #1 Checkered Beveler $25 #2 Checkered Beveler $25 #2 Round Checkered Beveler $25 #4 Round Checkered Beveler $25 #0 Smooth Beveler $25 #2 Smooth Beveler $25 #2 Curved Thumbprint (left & right)$50 #0 Horizontal Thumbprint $30 #2 Horizontal Thumbprint $30 #3 Horizontal Thumbprint $30 #1 Leaf Liner $30 #2 Smooth Stop $30 #2 Checkered Turnback $30 #2 Lined and Scalloped Veiner $30 #1 Center Shader $30 #3 Flower Center 12 Seed $30 #4 Fluted Camouflage $35 There's $745 worth of tools here and I would like to sell for $600 exclude shipping. I would not like to break up the set as I do not wish to be stuck with a tool here and there. At least with a complete set, I could still pick up carving in the future if I find the time for it. I will throw in 2 Grey Ghost lifters for free. They corroded a little when I made sheaths for them. After buffing the corrosion out, they were not as sharp as original but still work very well.

I've bungled up a few pieces at the very last step, decorative cutting. Usually because of two things: 1. I can't figure out how wet should the leather be. I've tried cutting without re-wetting and it drags. I've tried re-wetting with a quick squeeze on the spray bottle, and it's too mushy. 2. The thumb printed vines are the worse. The thumb print tends to "lead" the blade due to the uneven surface. Any advice?

Anyone interested to buy these in a lot? If yes I'll check each tool how much I bought for and less 15% and put them in the classified. I'm tired of binning leather. Either I don't have talent or time for this, or it's simply not practical for someone living in a place where leather is not avail locally. It's heart wrenching practicing on leather which is $15 a foot shipped. It's especially difficult when I don't have the opportunity to ever see a real Sheridan carving other than photos too. There's also two BK swivel knives with extra border blade. One Kyoshin Elle swivel with two Leather Wrangler blades. There's also two Grey Ghost lifters I'd give free to the buyer. When they first arrive, I'd made sheaths for them using veg tan from some Indian tannery. The leather sheath actually corroded the lifters. After buffing out the rust, the lifters work ok but just not as sharp as new.

I started with Tandy then upgraded like everyone else. But when it's time to sell off the Tandy tools, I found that they are worthless. That said, it'll be tough to start off with high end stuff. I suggest that you take a look at www.goodsjapan.jp Their tools aren't so much more than Tandy and yet are so much more better made. It should get you started. A maul from Barry King. Pricking irons & edge beveler from Goodsjapan. Thread, needles, leather and hardware from Springfield leather is sufficient to do alot of projects.

Gerry, I've had that experience many a times with my Pfaff. I tried pushing the knot in with a stylus. Made it even more obvious. End up taking out all the stitches and hand sewing it. Best to leave it alone.

I hate these kinda things happening.. Keeps you awake at night wondering where it came from. Just now a package of tools and supplies arrived from US. I was rearranging my tools to make way for the new stamping tools. Used a piece of 3/4 inch diameter magnet to try and pick up a swivel knife blade that had dropped into the bottom of a narrow container. When I finished packing my whole bench, realized the magnet is missing. Spent an hour of leather time searching for it to no avail. Though its a cheap magnet, not worth anything, it just bothers me not knowing where it had gone .. Aargh..

Hi all, it's brass...

Hi Tor, you are right. It's not wise to keep running to the shop every time the blade is dull. It's better that I learn to strop it.

Found this strange part while I'm sewing today. Wonder where it came from. Pic shows it and where it was found. About 3mm diameter.

The shop is confident of flattening the bottom. Caveat is that I will lose 2mm thickness from the grinding. I hope it'll solve the problem as I dread having to foot the cost of return shipping which means I have spent money and return to nothing. When Dan suggested that I return it, we didn't delve into details but from his email, it seems he won't be footing the entire bill.

They have done some good work on my Heritage blade so I trust these guys. For US$12 per sharpening with 3 days turnaround, I rather leave it with them. After the owner showed me that the blade is bent slightly up in the middle, he asked me how old I'd this blade. When I told him I just bought thus tool, he shook his head. And I told him two things: 1. The blade was knocked out of position during shipping 2. When I was trying out the splitter, I was using a 2 inch strap, and it wasn't cutting. So I was pressing on the lever down hard with my body weight trying to get the initial bite. My theory is that with the strap (8 oz) thickness pushing upwards on the blade, it might have bent it. He then told me if that's the case, the blade material is poor.

I had the opposite experience. On my Heritage, it was tough to use. After the local shop put a micro bevel on it, I could pull through 4 inch wide pieces with just my thumb and index finger. Unfortunately, they are impossible to maintain by myself.

They took the flat side of a vernier caliper and placed it against the flat side of the blade. Then lifted it against the light. At certain cross sections of the blade, the light shone through. I hope that's correct.

Just left the sharpening workshop. They do all these blades for plastic and paper cutting machines. Alot of these blades are 6 foot long! If only I can use them to split an entire side. Secretly took a pic ... Anyway, they checked and found that the blade is not entirely flat on the underside. They will have to grind the flat side, which means I will lose the tool black and 2mm in thickness. Usually they will work on the top bevel only. Unfortunately, due to the screw mounting areas protruding beyond the height of the bevel, they can't work the bevel using their machine. Let's hope just flattening the base would work.

Thanks Tor.. If you do get a powered splitter, I'd move to Norway so I can borrow it sometimes !

I'm not sure how to make sure the groove is EXACTLY top center. Are there any markings I'm missing? If not I'll just use a measuring guide.

One question about the groove on the roller. I must first ensure the roller is positioned such that the groove is at top dead center before it is useful for blade alignment purpose. How do I position the groove?

Hi Dan, in my original email to Lisa, as well as when I turn down your offer of compensation, I believe it was quite apparent to you my intention is to genuinely find out if the shipped condition is the same as others, in which case I'd just accept it. And also to highlight to you what is being shipped out the door. Sometimes management may not know what is going out their doors to customers. Anyway, I've just replied your mail and have explained my reason why I can't accept that I can only split straps on this easily. In any case, I'm ready to make this work. I've just got a small can of black paint to touch up the chipped areas and rusty parts. The blade in your pic certainly looks a lot better finished than mine. So my plan to send it for resharpening may indeed prove to solve the problem. Just a suggestion, instead of taping a piece of cardboard over the blade and then stuffing styrofoam and newspaper all over, you might want to consider a light cost of oil, then Saran Wrap the whole machine, and fill the box with bubble wrap. Styrofoam breaks on impact. And Saran wrapping it prevents the blade from moving.

Thanks Troy, I now only order leather from Wickett and Craig and Hermann Oak from Goliger and so far so good

The shipping took only a week.. So I don't think the fact that I'm an overseas customer made a difference. Anyway, having bought Tandy tooling leather, I'm well trained in dealing with disappointment. I guess I can work this one out.