reddevil76

thank you.

No reply from Ferdco. Guess they can't help me. No luck finding someone to machine a pulley for me either. If anyone knows where I can purchase something like this, please do let me know.

I'm not making that conclusion due a lack of display of the sanding process. I am making the conclusion due to several scenes where they show the edge being dyed, and visually, you can see the edges very much uneven and being dyed over.

Thank you! Actually by removing the original wheel, I can find someone to machine another one for me that is larger. It is just that I am not sure, if the "larger" portion, has to be where the belt attaches (and so needs a longer belt) or just the outer diameter. And if a longer belt is needed, how do I determine how long. Because on motorcycles, we do use a larger rear sprocket for increased torque, and that is effective only if the drive chain rides on this larger diameter. If the sprocket is huge, but the drive chain still rides on a smaller inner diameter, there is no increase in torque.

Love this dunhill video too. But it disturbs me that he doesn't bother to sand the edges even before edge dyeing them.

is it for sale?

Does anyone know if there is an accessory equivalent to the Sailrite's Monster for the Pfaff MA 1245? I've googled till I'm crossed eye and still came up with nothing. I wish to use the really slow speeds on my servo motor, but too low, and there just isn't enough torque.

I did. But not directly. Nor asking for a refund or return. I said the side has alot of scars, and I think I am better off buying the Royal Meadow. They ever said that they will honour the pricing I get from Tandy for my elite membership. So I asked if I can buy Royal Meadow through them at the same elite price, but there was no reply to that email.

Thank you. I have bought this in 3/4 and 2/3 before. The 2/3 used to be offered in the drop down menu as 2/3 or 2/3 soft. I chose the 2/3 and received a side that was as soft as a piece of curtain cloth. The 3/4 has a couple of 10-12" knife cuts, and much bumps/swirls and insect bites all over. Only managed to squeeze a bifold out of it and 3 card slots for a biker wallet. The rest of the biker wallet had to be made from other leather. I have used the remaining of the side for practising my swivel knife, lining my marble slab, trying out my sewing machine. I was wondering if their double shoulders will be any better.

Hi, may I know which item is this from their web?

Hmm.. That's what we did. I'll try fiddling with it again when I visit him...

Last night my friend and I were fiddling with this Sunstar KM-560 which he bought used. The knee lifter was obviously not original, and had been screwed to the table with a crude assortment of timber pieces as spacers. This tells me the swing leverage is too short, and the previous owner had tried to compensate for that. Due to the timber spacers, and the limited length of the wood screws, about 2", there is only about 0.3" screw threaded into the table top. The constant lifting has caused the entire assembly to loosen. We removed the spacers, and adjusted the shaft contact point and eventually got the knee lifter to be able to lift about 3/4 of the distance that the lever is able to lift. This is still fine.. except.... now the knee lifter can lift the above distance when the machine is stationary. But when mid sewing, it just slightly budges the pressor foot. My question is, when setting the knee lifter, is there a particular position for the needle to be at?

For center folds, it is not necessary to groove it. We groove only for sharp corner folds. Your idea of a book over it should work just fine. I myself would lightly damp the center fold, fold and align the corners perfectly, then hold them with wooden clothes peg.

Hi Wiz, it was actually reconditioned and destined for export to Vietnam. There were several units, and when I expressed my interest, the dealer pulled out one unit for me. The dealer said he has changed all the wear and tear parts and included a brand new table and servo motor. I brought a friend along who has been working with leather for 6-7 years, and he told me it is very likely the dealer is telling the truth looking at the machine. I am probably going to sew about 5-6 wallets a month, and using #277 top/#138 bottom for only 2-3 of them. Most of the time, I would use #207 top. Now I just hope I can learn how to control it (the lowest setting on the servo is too weak) and work with transiting thickness. With handstitching, I always plan where all my stitches will land, to the dot. Using a machine will be a totally different ball game for me.

Hi Wiz, I bought a used Pfaff MA 1245. It's a walking foot machine. It is rated to sew 207 top and 138 bottom. But during the demo, we managed to do 277 top and bottom, so I snapped it up.

Also, stitch length changes when the thickness of the project changes. How to maintain a constant stitch length with a project of varying thickness?

I have a bifold design which has an inside area where it transitions from 3 layers of 3 oz to 2 layers. Now, I know a walking foot can handle the transiting layers. However, what happens when the transition is underneath? (feed dog side) Also, during the demo (when I was buying it), we did try sewing 2 layers of 5-6oz and transiting to 1 layer. And when it went to 2 layer, the stitches started to have knots below. I was told I would need to fiddle around to sew different thicknesses. How do you deal with needle and bobbin tension when the project you are sewing has different thicknesses? I can't possibly be changing tension in the middle of a project? My machine is arriving in a few days, but I can't wait to gather some info before I jump into it... sorry..

I have bought a used Pfaff MA-1245 and the dealer has demo-ed it is capable of sewing with #277 top and bottom, though the stitches break with reversing. With #138, it is not a problem. However, I have a problem locating Schmetz needles in the following size locally: 134-35 LR #150 and 134-35 LR #130. I am also looking for bonded polyester in various colour in 277 and 138. Googling and ebay came to naught. Zack white has #140 or #160 only. Since i am shipping internationally, would prefer a vender which accepts web orders, and has both needle and thread for one stop shipping. Would appreciate if anyone knows of such a vender to point me in the right direction.

Compare spraying paint and applying paint by brush. The brush method would have more control. Same with glue. Of course, if you find that you can control a spray better.... I cut on the grain, because I mark my cut lines on the grain side with a scratch awl. The flesh side doesn't take markings very well. Also, I cut from the grain side so that I can avoid any natural blemishes if any.

thank you sir.

Hi Adam, check this thread out, in it I've explained the card slots with some illustrations. A pic speaks a thousand words.. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=40068 Hi, check out W&C's page, explains it quite well http://www.wickett-craig.com/index.php/leathers/description-and-grading

Here's another commissioned by a repeat customer. Outer is 4-5 oz burgundy english bridle from Wickett & Craig. Inner is 3-4 oz Royal Meadow from Tandy.

Hi, I have a 2-ton arbor press. And it can cut a 3 X 3" die just by pressing the die in a couple of places. So I think it would work for an embossing plate of that size too.

I don't use spray adhesive unless gluing on lining for large projects. To glue edges for stitching together, i use contact cement applied on with a small brush.

Haven't used a round knife before myself. I use a cheap utility knife (with neon green plastic body *gasp*) But I only work with 6-7 oz max. 1. I use the smallest size knife, those used for craft paper. The small size tip is easier to go round corners. 2. I break off dull blade tips often. They are too cheap to bother with stropping. 3. I stand up, and try to keep my knife straight up. I also give it 2-3 passes if thick. 4. The thing I keep in mind most is, when my project has a round corner, I do not cut a rectangle, then round the corners. I cut the straight lines with the aid of a metal ruler, stop before the corner, then go a little more and when reaching the corner, I turn the leather while keeping my knife straight up and almost stationary. I found it impossible to get a nice corner when manipulating the knife as the wrist is a limitation. I manipulate the leather through the knife. With this, I found round corners a breeze. Especially with a cutting mat below. 5. I don't think I am alone in doing this. 0.34 of the video Edit: I'm not saying a round knife is not the answer as I haven't tried it myself. But since you already have a utility knife, and you've got the leather, it's easy to just try this out and see if it improves your cuts while you decide on a better cutting tool.