reddevil76

Hi Tor, I do have a strop from Goodsjapan which I use for my swivel knives. But the leather was soft, so I split a piece of veg tan myself (used splits to ensure its level) then I ran the split several times through a pasta roller, glued it to the strop and applied green rouge. It works on my swivel knives, but on my Heritage, i find I just end up dulling the blade by stropping it. I gave up and just sent it to the machine shop whenever necessary. Having to ship almost everything from US, for once I have something which I could 'buy' locally, I just allow myself to be lazy.

Hi Tor, thanks for the advise. I've considered stropping the blade. But usually I make it worse, I'm a bad hand at polishing edges. Perhaps I'll just get the machine shop to do a micro bevel for me. Dylan

Ok I just posted and see Dan's reply. Indeed I noted the groove and have used it to align the blade. No luck. On my Heritage, once I push the handle down, the blade will make an initial cut, then I pull. On this, it just squashes against the blade, I have to lap the handle around and wiggle the strap side to side to get an initial cut before I can fully push the handle down and lock it. All the internal foam and newspaper was intact when I open the box. So I can't comment if all these is due to shipping. In any case, I don't see flakes of paint on the foam. Anyway I'm not asking for anything in return or refund, just tell me how to get it to split 7 inch so that I don't regret this hefty purchase.

It's hard to capture all the nicks on the paint due to the camera and lighting. But here's some pics. I've just managed to straighten the blade and try it. Despite trying positioning it exactly center of roller, slightly before, slightly behind, I can't get it to work well. It either takes great effort to split a two inch strap or it'll chop it. And when it does split, I can't go lower than 4 oz and it just get stuck there at the blade. If this it what it can do, then I could've just used my Heritage. Reason I bought this is to split larger than 6 inch. I've removed the blade will send it for sharpening tomorrow. Will touch up the rusty and chip areas with 1K paint. Too far to return it. And no reply to my email anyway. Not everyone seems to wear the Made In USA tag with pride anymore.

Thank you

Does the Chase patterns split with grain or flesh facing up?

Ok will check back.. Just bought a Campbell Keystone 8 inch but will be interested if any 12 inch turns up. Can 3 in 1s do edge skiving?

Hi Bruce, I don't see the 12 inch there, is it sold?

I have a 6 inch heritage splitter but recently decided to splash out for an 8 inch keystone as I wanted a splitter which I could lock down the handle. Though the $130 shipping was a pain, I thought I rather buy quality. To my horror I received the splitter today and found the below: -There was surface rust on the roller and hold down bar. - The roller was not polished (is it supposed to be? All other splitters have polished rollers). - The paint was chipped off the frame in several places. - Metal burrs from production was all over - The gold paint used to paint the company name was smeared in several places along the rear of the blade - The blade was not mounted properly, and as I don't have the right size spanner now, I can't straighten it and test the splitter. But the blade doesn't look polished, so I have doubts on its sharpness. There are also alot of rough scratches further up the bevel. It looks like a china knock off even though I bought it direct from Campbell. Even my Heritage which cost half of it was better made. The burrs was really a sign of "can't be bothered". Did you receive yours in this condition?

I have a 6 inch heritage splitter but recently decided to splash out for an 8 inch keystone as I wanted a splitter which I could lock down the handle. Though the $130 shipping was a pain, I thought I rather buy quality. To my horror I received the splitter today and found the below: -There was surface rust on the roller and hold down bar. - The roller was not polished (is it supposed to be? All other splitters have polished rollers). - The paint was chipped off the frame in several places. - Metal burrs from production was all over - The gold paint used to paint the company name was smeared in several places along the rear of the blade - The blade was not mounted properly, and as I don't have the right size spanner now, I can't straighten it and test the splitter. But the blade doesn't look polished, so I have doubts on its sharpness. There are also alot of rough scratches further up the bevel. It looks like a china knock off even though I bought it direct from Campbell. Even my Heritage which cost half of it was better made. The burrs was really a sign of "can't be bothered". Did you receive yours in this condition?

I have a thinner bobbin (bottom) thread for one project. The sewn edge was a total of only 5 oz thick. The customer wanted a thick thread look, but with the thin edge, the knots would appear either top or bottom no matter how I adjust. The only solution was to use a thinner bobbin thread.

Hi Bob, thanks for the attachment. I read through it, but my motor doesn't indicate all these. It just says S.0 to S.5 and L.0 to L.9

There are two buttons on my motor. Up (a upside down V) and Down (a V). When I hold the down button, it shows 5.0, the next setting is L.0. What does these 2 settings means?

Hi guys, I would like to know if anyone has bought the above or has Artisan folded? I have been sending emails to the company regarding this splitter (head only) since last Oct and no reply at all. Maybe the moment I mention shipping to Singapore and they got turn off. But I have bought all sorts of things including 22 sides in one single shipment, so I don't think large heavy items is a problem. They just have to quote me and I agree to pay for it. In fact, I have a forwarder here who can arrange for shipping too.

Hi I used A grade Hermann Oak from Goliger. From the trim and inner, I used 2-3 oz Wickett & Craig. I would have used HO all around if I had it in that weight.

Here's the inside.

After 6 months of hibernation due to 18 hours workdays 6 days a week, I finally found some time to do some leatherwork.

Cut the leather slightly larger than your pattern, then pass it to your dog. He'll take care of it.

Thanks everyone..

haha. I am using a Pfaff MA1245

Ok, tonight I was trying to adjust tension to sew 2 pieces of 2-3oz veg tan together. Using 138 thread, size 150 needle. No matter how I adjust, the knot either appears on the top, or on the bottom. I have already went through a whole bag of scraps to do this. Tomorrow I would actually need to cut pieces from the hide from testing. This is getting crazy. I know its probably difficult to help without actually helping me adjust it. But just trying my luck. I have double and triple checked my threading on the machine to make sure the thread goes into each tensioner properly.

Thank you sir.

Hi Tom, sorry I just realised even after I go to the correct page, the url I copied and paste leads back to that edge guide page. Ok, same link, but at that page, click on "Pfaff 1245" on the left, it will go to a page of pressor feet. At the bottom, is a couple of plates that looks like stirrup plates. Just not sure if it will work for a flat bed.

Have anyone fitted a stirrup to their flat bed? I looked at this page and the bottom two looks like it could fit my Pfaff 1245. http://www.kwokhing.com/pfaff/

Can you supply it with belts ready to fit on a Pfaff MA 1245? I'm not good at modifications.