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Thanks Mike. I am doing my best to learn the holding the awl at all times while poking holes and stitching. I can normally pull the needle through if I use the other needle as a cross like the stitching book shows. But this is only up to double 6-7 oz leather. Anything thicker than that, like a holster and I have to use a small pair of pliers. I know that the needle I use is too big for what I am doing. I appreciate your information on size relationship of size to the numbers. All I need now is to figure out what the Tandy Blunt needle with an extra large eye is equal to. Once I figure out what size it is I can buy a couple of smaller ones probably a total of 3 different sizes so I can find a size I like. If you ever get to know me you will find out I am basically a nice person but I get obsessive about details that are no way as important as I make them out to be. At least my wife has learned to live with it and me. It will be 34 years this month. Poor woman is a saint. Thanks for your help.

Thanks for the info Mike I'm sure it seems crazy but I am really hoping someone will be able to measure a few harness needles for me. I've been lucky I have never broken an eye on a needle yet. Currently I have some Maine Thread Company 0.030" waxed cord. It has worked well so far. It would be great to know what size the Tandy large eye needle is equal to in a harness needle. Thanks for taking the time to respond. Michael

Please, I need some help. I am so confused its not funny. I did the search thing but came away more confused. Everything I read about needle sizes is gauge. I would like it in diameter so I can wrap my feeble mind around the concept of needle size. I use the typical Tandy stitching needle that comes with their kits to saddle stitch. On thick leather its hard to pull through the hole made by an awl. Which size of needle do I need. Is the Tandy stitching needle larger or smaller than a #000 harnes needle. Bigger or smaller than a #0 needle. Do I want Harness or Glover's needles. What is a Glover's needle I mainly do holsters, sheaths and belts. Almost always thick leather. Always hand stitched. If any one has a caliper and some different needles I would like the diameter of a few needles 0, 5, and 000 harness needles. Millimeters or Decimal reading are fine. If you have a caliper take the measurement just below the eye. The Tandy stitching needle is 0.525 inches or 1.33 mm. Length is not really important. This will help me get an understanding on relationship of the gauge or needles. I'm a retired engineer and I need all the data I can get to feel comfortable with the needle decisions. FYI I have a feeling a need a 4 or 5 egg shaped harness needle for what I do, but have no way of knowing if or why its true. I am probably making this too confusing but its the way my mind works. Scary isnt it? Thanks everyone

I noticed this, bad goods sold as good, on Etsy last week. Saw a person selling belts that were not finished on the edges. I sent him an email and asked him how he burnished his edges, knowing he didnt. His reply was "Whats burnishing" I explained it to him and got an email the next day thanking me for explaining it to him. He says the belts look 100% better now and commented that he is now embarrassed about the older ones he made. My point is sometimes people put out bad stuff because that's all they know. In this persons case he bought some blanks at TLF and they didnt tell him about how to handle the edges. Now his belts look pretty good. If you can do it, without making the person look like an idiot, education is a great way to improve someones quality of work. My Failed Projects bin is full of stuff that is bad only because someone took the time to explain to me why it wasn't as good as I thought it was. This forum is a great place to learn that you do not know it all and there is a lot to learn. If you have the time and the opportunity mentor someone. Even if you only know a little more than they do, as is the case with me, you can help them along and improve their product. Storing soap box away till next time. Michael

If you order the Tandy single shoulder make sure you tell them you want a 6/7 that is 6/7. This load of shoulders ranges from 4/5 to 8/9 and is marked as a 6/7. I got the info from my Tandy guy and when I went to the store he was right. I picked up 2 8/9 shoulders that were sold as 6/7 for the 21.99. It's not a bad deal as long as you can hand pick the leather or talk to them when you order and requests a 6/7 piece that is decent quality and really a 6/7. Tell them you are making holsters and they should be able to pick a nice one for you. Some of the ones I saw were really nasty. Hope this makes sense.

Contact Cement. I use Weldwood brand. Coat both sides, let dry and put together. Make sure you have it lined up before it touches. Once it is in place it will not be easy to move it you can do it at all. The other thing I have used is Leather weld from Tandy. It looks like elmers but is a strong bond. You need to clamp it and let it dry. I prefer contact cement. Michael.

I tried the rolling pin and it was not as deep or as textured as using my poly hammer. It wasnt a problem to hammer it out. Even on a bigger piece. Good idea. Maybe someone with better upper arm strength could make the rolling pin work. Tony, what is "fly wire"? I am not familiar with that term. Michael

I got a new poly board to do my hole punches and chisel work on. I was using a single diamond chisel to put some stitching holes in a triple layer of 6/7 veg tan. I had to flip it over, grain side down, to finish a hole that was stubborn. When I turned it back I had a pebble texture around the hole. I had failed to pay attention to the fact that the new poly board had a pebble finish. I used a modelling spoon to fix the sheath but it gave me an idea. I took a scrap of cased 6/7 and placed it grain side down on the board. I tapped the full length of the leather with my hammer and was treated to a very nice textured surface. I plan to use this for a Belt I am doing where the person wanted it textured and I didn't really want to use a stamp on the whole surface. It will sure be a lot faster. I'll sand the other side of the poly board for normal work but it was an interesting discovery.

Art, Whats the rough size of a cabinet that is heated by 2 100W light bulbs? Im thinking a 2 foot cube? Michael

Kevin, This is what I was told, and judging from the quality of this persons work I have every reason to believe them. This is a response to a question I had about making holsters. I've have to try it at least once. I have read this other places also and the "Science" of the process makes sense.

I have been told that to properly harden the leather in a holster after the molding/boning I should bake it at 125 degs. My main oven only goes down to 170. My toaster oven is small and I am concerned that the leather would be too close to the elements. It also only goes down to 175. How do you people get the holster dry in an oven and still keep it from getting too hot? Michael

Depending on the type of case you are making You can line the inside of the entire case with suede and then just make two side panels from top to bottom to make a chamber for the cue. Look at the picture below. Its for a 4 cue case but the concept is the same. You can also use felt or other fabric if you do not want to use suede but in my opinion suede is classy. Michael

Congrats. One thing that impressed me was the consistency of all those holsters. That is some excellent work. Michael

Great looking holster particle. The only critique I have is that is too curvy You need some angles in there. All kidding aside that looks really good. I hope to be able to do them that well with time. Michael

That makes a lot of sense. I hadn't thought about adjusting the shape or stitch line to fit the style of gun. Great idea. The next one is for a S&W M&P 45. Im going to have to think about the overall style of that one. The grips have some sweeping curves on it. Well that one is a few weeks away. I need to start this one first. That will be after the 21st. I am in Tucson all next week. Thanks for all your great advice. Michael.

Sorry Double Post

Sixer. The gun is an H&K USP-9. I checked it on a mockup of the holster and there is enough room to grab the grip comfortably. Thanks for your concern Id rather take the time to double check something than waste leather. The basic shape is a request for the guy I am giving this to. I will be honest and say I like it too. Either I learn to make them more curved or convince all you nice people that it's not totally ugly. As for gentle, no problem. I am used to submitting plans for review. You have not seen criticism until you have submitted the fire system plans for a 12 floor hospital to a Fire Marshal. They are rough. Thanks Michael

Well done!!! It's always nice to see your stuff in print. You deserve to feel very proud. Michael

Thanks, I got a set of french curves after I posted this version. They are a big help. Tandy has a single shoulder on sale 6/7oz for 21.99. I bought one for that exact reason. I can get 2-3 holsters out of it. Hopefully by the time its gone I will be comfortable making them and can get some good leather. Michael

particle, Great suggestion. Thanks Michael

Mike, I used to be a design engineer, years ago, and I have the same template. I dug out my T-square, French curves and my Circle template on this one. I tried to make sure there were no "sharp corners" on the leather. Your comment of " The way you've drawn the second pic is exactly what I'm referring to." tells me I must have been listening, at least a little. The first photo is just the wrong one. I did not plan to post that but It's one of those days. What about the stitch line. Can those be straight like I have them or do they need to be curved also? Thanks for all the great help. Michael

Not my day. It should read V3.0 in the topic and this is the picture I wanted to upload. If a mod could change the pic in the first post with this one I'd appreciate it. Denster, Not everyone will like every style. As long as the issues are likes and dislikes I'm happy. This is actually for someone else. They liked the last version with the angles and this one. I appreciate all the help. Thanks Michael

Ok, hopefully I took to heart everyone's advice and learned something. Here is what I believe will be the final version. 6/7oz outside 2/3oz liner. The dark gray is the gun outline before molding. stitch lines are dashed. Let me know what you think. No need to be gentle. I appreciate the constrictive criticism. Michael

(Bold added) The post above is the one I should have quoted . Thanks for catching it. It made no sense the way I originally posted it. Thanks also for the info about Tyler. I'm glad they made it back.

For those of us who are totally lost at the moment. Can someone post a link or a pic of some leather filigree work? I have no idea what it is but it sounds interesting.