cleanview

Thanks eaglestroker. I know I would be upset if I bought a cb4500 and did not have the business to substantiate it, just as well as having a need for more productivity and knowing that more machine would have been better. I am probably premature in my desire for a machine, I really am only getting started and am not in "need" of one as of yet. I think I will probably get a nicer unit than needed. My concerns are wondering if a Cb 2500 would do what i needed or the 3500 or the 4500. I really dont mind getting the 4500 but dont want to throw it more money at it than needed.

Thank you and may I saw dwight....that you put so much time and effort into the details of so many your posts and I hope you know that I for one very much appreciate it.

the only machine sold locally is sewpro and i cant find any info on it. 3000.00 dwight.. I have considered the boss. Do you find it limited at all or ever get tired of pulling the lever?

I ask here because machines can be for many levels of leather work. I have read and read and watched videos and am just learning to the point of not being able to decide. I am planning on what I want to do in five years from now, which is not full time but a steady suplimental income. By then it will require a machine so I am looking at getting one in the near future. I dont want one that will barely do the job and almost settled on the cowboy 4500 but cant help but wonder if one of the lesser models will do the job as well. What do you use....recommend.....or wish you had bought and finally upgraded later. Would really appreciate the input you could provide.

been thinking about a 4500 as well. What is the shipping charge on something like this? Really have no idea

Very good tip about the inlay process. I will keep that in mind on the next one. I seal with 50/50 acrylic resolene..........should the inlay be sealed as well???

Cool I figured it was not a bad thing. Just looking for conformation I guess. With winter coming on and my hobby room not always warm. It is just a way to hasten the process

Trying to figure out what went wrong with my first inlay attempt. Was looking good and then got darker and lost color contrast after wet forming. It is dry in both pics I wonder if the inlay should have been sealed before forming? There is a piece of foam behind the inllay. Dont know if that factors in? Of course any other comments are welcome as well......and I already know there is to much clutter in the work space.

60 watt bulb keeps it at 100 degrees.......just wondering if hastening the process is a no no for any reason???

No ...it is plenty dry by now.....really darkened the whole piece ....discouraging to say the least

So....Doing my first inlay ...alligator behind the reinforcement piece .....all seems to be going well and after wet forming.....seems like the gator skin looks different ....could be not fully dry but wonder if dunking the holster may have got color on the skin. Do you put anything on the inlay to seal it before wet forming??? Thanks

I have made a box that I use a series of light bulbs to determine the level of heat and a timer to control how long it is on as I leave for work or go to bed. What I was wondering is if there is some reason that I am unaware of as to if it is a bad idea. Examples of use....... 1. After dying I may hasten the drying process at 100 degrees for 1-2 hrs 2. After wet forming I use it to speed up the drying process and hopefully harden it some at 100-120 degrees for 4 hrs 3. After finishing or sealing I set it in there 100-120 for an 1-2 hrs I am not concerned about stiffening the leather (actually want it) as most of what I do is holsters. Curious if this is not a good idea for some reason

THanks. I like the clip centered on the slide but I think people like the fact that they can adjust it instead. I tell them a big gun can walk a little in this set up. This one will be worn appendix and the clip will actually wind up over the trigger guard when worn. Crisper??? as in more definition? The stitch line is an elusive thing. I actually had get violent with this one to get it in. but it seems like the best fitting ones are the ones that I thought would never make it in the holster. I cant imagine getting the gun in with a tighter stitch line, but that makes me wonder if I am missing something. this was the first holster sold since I started a facebook page that targets local people. Really have built several for my guns and just want more practice and people know that. thanks again.

this forum is the greatest. Thanks

Well ....here is the "redo" Any coments or critique is welcome. After making this I redid the pattern to have a better slope from the stitch line towards the gun. The holster is for a 3.8 .......this is a 4.5

thanks Monica .....just to be clear.....are you saying I can dye (I use angelus oil?dyes) and then accent with antique gel then seal? if so that sounds like something to play with

I am reading this section form the beginning .....still have a ways to go but really eye opening stuff. One of my favorite colors is eco flo dark brown gel cut 50/50 with water. Every time I look at the holster (sits by the bed) I think "boy that is a pretty color"..... I just must a bunch on and work it in and wipe off excess and then continue on. But as I read through this mass of information and realize there is a lot of stuff I do not realize .......I wonder if there is some reasone this might not be a good idea.

Its one of my first holsters that I am doing since I started advertising. Some one asked me if there was a way to just make it work. I said that is not the way I want to start of my reputation and I could not live with myself if some thing happened as a result of my holster because I was to lazy to redo it. I am really doing most holsters for 40 bucks, not a lot of profit but what I want is experience and a local reputation.

Well, I decided to remake the holster. It is bout half done now. The real reason for me was, I would rather know without a doubt than to wonder if the holter was safe. It was a little closer than I like it ont he trigger guard. that being said the real value in this lesson to me is in regards to the boning in o f the trigger guard Thanks all.....big help

I dont post a lot, but I read a lot here. ANd it it really amazes me both in what I learn and then in what I realize that I do not know........I would never have considered the boning in of the trigger guard until reading the comments here. I don't mind not knowing things, but not knowing things like the boning in comments on the trigger guards.........thats scary ....really. thanks fro the comments

Really just looking for a thumbs up or thumbs down..................but that is an outstanding way to judge the holster, Very helpful,,, thank you

Here is a little bigger

Just cant decide if that is cutting the trigger coverage to close.

thanks. It helps to think out loud and listen for validation when you just aint sure. Appreciate it

I have and XDM 4.5 and need to make an XDM 3.8. I think I should be able to do it with existing patterns and shorten as needed and mold it with the slide sticking out. Am I wrong? thanks