wizard of tragacanth

Bingo! http://tuckergunleather.com/beclforiwbho.html

Yes... but I can't remember where I saw them. May come to mind eventually. Nick

Beautiful work. The pictures of the log pile and barbwire fence brought back so many memories of my Grandfather's farm that I got a litlle tearful.

Yes, you should be proud of your work on these. Show them to some friends and try to get some orders. Then you can make holsters for other people's guns.

Nice work... again! LOVE the red insert and thread. I had been thinking about using red thread on my next project. Hmmm, now I will have to think of something else!

Thanks Madmaxx22. Both spools are the same weight. I've been searching posts regarding the quality difference and it appears that the Hungarian thread breaks more easily. It would be best to stick with Barbours, I think. The cost difference per project is negligible. I only wish that it came in black... I am sooo lazy. From what I have read, it really does not matter if it is left-twist or right-twist if it is for hand-stictching only. I know that there are a few people who would disagree with this though. However, since I do have a choice, and I am right-handed, I guess I should go with right-twist.... correct? Lastly, I need to decide between 5-cord and 6-cord. I know that this choice is somewhat dependent upon thread spacing. I am working with 7-spi. Any advice here? Nick

Okay, so I have read some posts about waxing one's own thread with home-brew rosin. I'm gonna give this a shot. I ordered beeswax and amber resin, now I need to find some thread for hand-stitching. Couple of questions... I have heard Barbours 5-cord touted as the best linen thread available for holster making. It is available from Campbell-Bosworth, however, it comes only in white with left-twist. Product # TH-BR5LNT @ $51 Campbell-Bosworth also sells Hungarian linen thread, also 5-cord, left-twist BUT it is available in black and is about half the price of the Barbours thread. Product # TH-LN5LBK @ $25 Link to Campbell-Bosworth linen thread selection: http://www.campbell-...q5o8mgjeut4ef76 Does Campbell-Bosworth sell to individuals? If so, which product should I choose. I need black but I would suppose that white thread can be dyed with leather dye. If C-B does not sell to individuals, can you recommend another source? Thanks, Nick

Nice work.

Thanks triage... it looks like I will be toddlin' down that road right behind ya. Unlike me, these guys know what they are talking about. I should just keep my mouth shut! I sure hope that I don't wind up having to make my own thread!!! And I mean sewing thread, not talking about posting a thread. And triage, my post wasn't nuthin, thanks for YOUR post. Nick

Ooops, sorry. I was composing this when you were posting your decision. BTW, I was not disagreeing with the experts, just putting out another idea. I will probably try a couple of suggestions in the above posts, myself. In my humble newbie opinion, I think for hand stitching, you are going to want a waxed thread, whether it is pre-waxed or do it yourself. The wax holds the thread in place as you stitch. Unwaxed thread is for machines or for people who want to do their own waxing. Just to get a little experience, why don't you start with some 25 yard spools of pre-waxed thread from Tandy for under $5 each. Yes, that's a high cost for a small amount of thread but you will get several projects from these and overall the cost is low for experimenting. Get some needles that will accept thick thread. Waxed nylon: http://www.tandyleat...s/1227-038.aspx Waxed linen: http://www.tandyleat.../11207-003.aspx Needles: http://www.tandyleat...s/1195-033.aspx Nick

Nice work. Lot's of curvy interest that I would not have expected in an HK holster .

Oh gosh... I'm not laughing at all... that is just sad. That holster was looking good. It takes courage to share our failures. Thanks for that. Nick

Oh... if you are cutting belts from sides, you will want a strap cutter!

Katsass, thank you for your comments. The pic of the back is at a low angle. The leather does not push on the mag release but it still needs to trimmed down for finger room to achieve a full firing grip. I could trim down both the front and the back about 1/8" to 3/16" , right next to the trigger guard as a fix. It may be a week before I can get around to doing this but when I do, I will post some more pics on this thread. Nick

Some things to think about... You either have to decide on how many stitches per inch you want on your overstitch wheel or get one that comes with three different sized wheels. I went with the three different sizes. Start with a #2 edger. I started with a #3 and IMHO, it just takes off too much leather unless you are using 13oz or greater. If the #2 doesn't do enough for you, then go get a #3. Tandy has a stitch groover that converts to a creaser and in either configuration, it can be used free-hand or with the guide attached. I recommend it http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Tools/88081-00.aspx I don't know where your source is for sanding drums but I got a set at Sears for around $20 or $25. From my very limited experience, belt punches for buckle tongues do not work on thick leather. They are wedge shaped and cannot plough through thick stuff. It was a complete waste of money for me. For any slots, drill a hole at each end and cut out the center between them with a utility knife. Likewise a strap end punch was a waste of money. I just cut them by hand and finish them with the sanding drum. Make that Fiebing's "Pro Oil" leather dye and I will agree. Get some scrap wool, the real stuff, not the synthetic, to buff the dye before top-coating and to buff the top-coat after drying. If you plan to do any snap setting, you may want to get a mini anvil, if you don't already have one in your shop. I would choose what Tandy calls a "horn creaser" rather than their "bone folder". It does more of what you are looking for. Reaper already told you that a stitching pony ain't gonna work for holsters, so I don't need to repeat that, do I? Nick

Thanks Reaper... that's a real compliment, and I appreciate it. Yeah, I think a snap attachment is more my style. I had time to take some more pics. I know that when other people post pics of their new stuff, I always like to see the holster with a gun in it and one of the back, as well, so here they are. Nick

This is my third attempt at a holster. I'm not there yet but I am starting to *get* it... thanks to all of the great people on this forum! I still didn't leave quite enough room for a *full* firing grip and I thought that I had. It is just a smidge tight but this is not acceptable. Next time I will make absolutely certain that I do this correctly. On the double stitching that you see going the length of the gun, those were not planned. The outside lines were the initial rows. Later, I re-molded the holster, for a closer fit, and did the inside lines. I have never used a slotted style holster before and I am not sure that I like them. It is a pain to put it on and take it off. However, once it's on, it isn't going anywhere and it does snug up well to the body. I'm not sure which design to try next. I was going to try an Avenger but after wearing this holster for a few days, I think I want something that does not need to be threaded on the belt. Nick

I am soooo envious! Congrats!

We used chrome tanned to line our dresser drawers. Nice.

Actually, my first and only belt to date was a similar screw-up. A guy at work wanted me to make him a belt with a removable buckle. He said that he wanted it black, in a size 32. I told him that I needed to measure his belt. He insisted that all I had to do was make it 32". I told him that I really, really needed to measure it and he absolutely insisted that I did NOT and just make it 32". Well, when it was done, he tried it on in front of me and it was at least 3" too short. He said that the belt need to be 32" to the center hole. I assured him that it was. He said to re-make it "this much longer" (showing me with his fingers). I won't even go into the rest of the story. The bottom line is that I did not make another belt for him and got nothing out of that one. We work together every day and nothing more has been said about it. We are still friends. I blame myself for NOT getting a measurement, as much as I blame him for not knowing what he was talking about. I chalk it up as a learning experience but it kinda made me wonder if I really want to do this. Nick

Wow! People can be ridiculous! Thanks for sharing... it's kind of like watching the World's Dumbest Criminals... enteraining and unbelievable. Nick

You can get one of those buckles from Tandy for $9. I like it too, it's going on my next belt (for myself) . http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/Buckles/7875-05.aspx Nick

Thanks very much for the video. I plan to make an Avenger fairly soon. Nick

Disclaimer: This is my way of doing it and I am new to leatherworking. There are many other ways to accomplish the same thing and I am sure there are better ways too... but this will get you started and then you can start exploring better ways on your own. First, you need to sand the edges so that they are straight where they need to be or smoothly curved, which ever the case. Use a sanding block with 120 grit sandpaper for straight lines and outside curves. Use the sand paper by hand or wrapped around some round-stock, for inside curves. Once you have the shape right, finish off with 300 or 320 grit or higher. Make the edge look as good as possible at this point. Keep working until you are convinced that it cannot look any better by further sanding. Do not rely on burnishing to make up for short-cutting on the sanding. The better job that you do on the sanding just makes the burnishing go that much easier and better. Use a stitch groover to cut a nice groove that runs parallel with the outside edge of your holster. In order to have a good looking, straight stitch groove, you have to have a straight edge on the holster that the guide on the groover can follow. If you have an irregular edge on the holster, then the stitch groove will also be irregular. After grooving, run an overstitch wheel through that groove, for stitch spacing. Get a wheel that is 6 or 7 stitches per inch. If the leather has not be dyed yet, do it at this time, prior to burnishing the edges. Gum Tragacanth is dye resistant, so once the edges are burnished with it, you cannot successfully dye the edges. Get some Gum Tragacanth and a burnishing tool. I prefer the wooden tool sold by Tandy (see attached pic). Using a Q-tip, apply some Gum Tragacanth to 2 or 3 inches of the sanded edge. Apply just enough to wet it, You don't want it running down the side. Let it soak in for a few seconds, then rub the burnishing tool rapidly, back and forth on the edge. Rub hard and fast. You want heat and pressure. As the leather starts to heat up and smooth down, the Gum will be absorbed and start to dry. You will begin to hear a squeeking or chirpping sound. When you hear this, you know that you are doing it correctly. Continue for a few more seconds and watch the leather get smooth and shiny. That spot is done. Apply the Gum to the next 2 or 3 inches and continue until your project is done. BTW, you can go back over an area a second time if necessary. Good luck, Nick

Looks really good for a first holster. I would guess that though this is your first holster, it is not your first leather project. Correct? Nick