wizard of tragacanth

Well, that is really darn good for a first holster. Far better than mine was! That was very clever to make it so that it can be worn as a belt slide or IWB. As Tony suggested, you need to have the stitching right up against the gun. It's not too late to ADD that. Also, there needs to be more room for a full firing grip while the gun is in the holster. That's not as easy to fix now. Next time, leave a little more room. Your art work is nice. nick

Thanks for sharing those. Nice!

This is one of those things that has always bugged me. Why in the World doesn't any manufacturer make a punch that is more appropriate for belt slots? Cutting belt slots by hand is a real pain and, for me, it often ruins the look of the holster. A die is essential for a decent look. I searched all of the familiar tool makers and none of them had one. The dies were too long, too short, too narrow or too wide. I finally gave in and ordered a custom made die in 1 5/8" by 1/4". For me, it is perfect. Ordered it from Texas Custom Dies. I don't remember how long it took to get it but it was relatively quick... within two weeks, I think, maybe sooner. nick

Sorry Kirby, my mistake. I am a "beginner" myself. I thought that you were using veg tan for that project. I have only used veg tan, so you may be right! I should keep my big mouth shut!

Hey... keep going Kirby! Your stitches look pretty good on the checkbook cover. IMO, the corners are too square. Also, you may want to learn how to sand and burnish the edges. Burnishing the edges would definitely take this project up a notch. On your next project, consider burnishing the flesh side before assembling the pieces. It could be done on this project but not as easily. On this project, just round off the corners, sand and burnish the edges. Well, that's what I would do anyway. To round the corners, start by cutting off just the tip... one cut at a 45° angle. Don't take off too much, just a little, then round them with sandpaper, 120 grit or finer. nick

dougfergy... that is a very nice color and a beautifully made holster. I aspire to your skill level... may never get there!

I did not buy this from Herman Oak but ordered from another supplier. It was listed as using a "special" leather from Herman Oak. I just thought that they were saying that Herman Oak is "special" leather. They did not mention any kind of texture. I don't want to pay return shipping for a $17 item, so I will just use it. Not happily though. I will be more careful in the future. I had no idea that HO would add a texture. Seems crazy to me. I was wondering if it was corrected grain. It's ugly. nick

I use Fiebing's Pro dye. I always give my projects at least two and maybe three applications. I want to load it with color, until it will not take any more. I just give it a minute or two between coats. When it starts "standing" on the leather, I know it is done. Of course, this results in the darkest rendition of whatever color is used, but it IS even. If it is not even, then perhaps the leather had some oils or waxes on it which prevented absorption.

I have only tried Angeles one time. It was their Navy Blue. It required LOTS of buffing. I decided, right then, that I would be sticking with Fiebing's Pro Oil from then on. But that's just one person's experience. nick

I didn't want to buy a side of leather to make one belt for a relative, so, I bought belt blank. I have never used a belt blank before, always cut them myself. So, I ordered a Herman Oak belt blank. The drum dyed one. I was quite surprised when I saw it in person. I was expecting a smooth finish but was rather, well... I don't know... grainy? textured? too perfect? It is difficult to describe, so I included some pics. I have never bought any leather that looked like this. What is going on? nick

Could not get pic of my 5 year old holster to upload on my last post. Here it is. Like I said, almost daily wear for 5 years. This was done with Gum Tragacanth and probably a coat of Satin Shene.

I have had great luck with bare wooden slickers. I have a holster that is at least 5 years old, used almost daily and the edges are still shiny. But, I agree with your wife. In fact my mind has really changed on this lately. I know that many people like shiny belts and holsters but when I used to wear boots, I preferred rough-out or nu-buck. It's just a personal thing. I have been going for a semi-gloss or matte finish on my holsters, lately. So, I am doing the same with the edges. A plastic slicker will do that... a smooth, barely glossy finish. I have never used or even experimented with any kind of cloth.

Billybopp answered it. Here are more examples: https://brucejohnsonleather.com/leather-tools-sale/push-beaders-and-bevelers http://barrykingtools.com/handtools.htm#

I'm guessing it is made to put a "bead" on the edge but I don't see why you couldn't use it the way you want. A tool is a tool, if it suits the use.

Definitely a conversation starter... for sure! I've never seen anything like it.

Okay... I can wait

My recommendation is to buy tools only when you see that you will be using them in the immediate future. There are many "common" tools that I have never used and likely never will. I can see that you need an edger for that project and depending on how you plan to attach a strap, you will either need some needles and thread or or a hole punch or something. Sometimes money can be saved by buying "sets" of tools but for me that would have been a waste. Because I only work with limited thicknesses of veg tan leather I do not need a set of edgers. A #2 is about all I need, maybe a #1. Another thing to watch out for is buying inexpensive tools. I bought an inexpensive rotary hole punch and it worked for maybe one project. It was so flimsy, I almost laughed, except that I had lost money on it, so it was not funny. If you are only doing a particular operation infrequently, do it the hard way. If you do that operation frequently, do it the easy way. For example, if you are putting an English Point on a belt, mark it and cut it with a knife. If you are making belts all the time, get a strap end punch. Bottom line, avoid buying tools that you "think" you will need. Wait until you "know" that you need them. nick

I have to be honest and say that I do not really understand what you are doing with this project. Is this a holster or a shield that slips between the gun and the pocket to break-up the outline? If it is a holster, I would need to see it with the gun in it. I do not see where a gun would go in it since all sides seem to be sewn and there is no way to get a grip on a gun. You mention 11/12 oz leather which seems way too thick for a pocket holster. I have never made a pocket holster but I would think that you would want to keep it as thin as possible. I mean, most people use something like 8-10 oz for belt holsters. Thick leather would add unnecessary bulk and make it more obvious that something was in your pocket. Maybe something like 6oz, or less, may be appropriate. Also, if this is a holster, and not a shield, why not make both sides rough-out? It would add extra traction. You mentioned problems with the stitching but it looks pretty decent. Do you want to elaborate? And, what kind of problems did you have with the glue? What kind of glue are you using?

I hope that I am not out-of-line doing this but I dug out a couple of old pics (from August 2011) that I had saved of Chuck Burrows work. I don't know where else you could see it now. These days the Wild Rose Trading Company is a Sporting Dog store... not at all what is once was. Wish I had kept some of his Indian style beaded knife sheaths. Anyway, here are the pics... If there is anything wrong with me doing this, please delete this post.

Hey Mike... glad you tried Tokonole! I just used it for the first time on my last project. It is NOTHING like Gum Tragacanth, no similarity AT ALL... as you have found out. I intend to use it from now on but I did want to mention something about edges. I still consider myself a beginner but I have learned a few things and not everybody has figured this part out, so I want to share it. You have to start with a good edge in order to end up with a good edge, no matter what product is used. Somewhere on this forum is a post by Chuck Burrows (Wild Rose Trading Company)... one of my idols, he has passed now. He tells how to use GT in a manner that I had never tried. I always applied it, let it soak in for 30 seconds or so and burnished it with a wooden tool. Done. Mr. Burrows talked about applying one coat of GT, letting it dry, applying another coat and letting it dry... completely... and then sanding, more GT, more sanding, then a coat and burnish. The GT makes the fibers stiff and stand up when it is sanded. If all your sanding is done on bare leather, the fibers just flex back and fourth, never getting really short. It is also important to use very fine grits. Work up to at least 400, 600 or finer. If you do not get the fibers super short, they will eventually stand up again and make the edge feel rough. nick

Wow-ee, wow, wow, wow! Gorgeous work! Definitely fit for a Star!

Do you thin it first?

I always used to think that I should strive for uniformity of color... makes it look more "professional" or "store bought". But, hey, it is hand made! I now think that the non-uniformity gives the piece more dimension. Of course, this would vary depending on the type of project, one may call for uniformity, another, not.

Thanks chiefjason. I really like the streaky blue myself. Well, I was going for a blue jeans look, so I thought that worked pretty well. I don't blame you for not reading the whole post, but the two piece loop and reinforcement was not planned. I did the loop and later decided to add the reinforcement. That was my first ever Avenger. I cut the trailing loop high in order to allow the best possible access to a back pocket but I definitely understand what you are saying. Next time, I will give more consideration to that. Don't know that I will make it round, but less acute. Nick

Hey bikermutt, thanks for your comment. I have always related to you because I said to myself... "I'm not paying $60 for a holster..." and you know the rest! I'm retired now, so I will be making more than I used to. Nick