wizard of tragacanth

Right after posting this, I thought that a two-snap configuration may work slightly better if the snaps were offset 15 - 30 degrees, so that the top snap opens first, then the bottom snap. That might be easier than trying to un-snap both at the same time. nick

I don't know how much money you want to invest in this but I think that a Mini Desktop Laser may be perfect for this type of thing. However, I don't have one or really know anything about them. I frequently shoot off my mouth, then I miss and shoot myself in the foot. Saw one on Amazon for $118 but I think it only does 8cm x 8cm or something like that. nick

Okay... here's my current thinking on Ross's fine project. I personally prefer the direction that the snaps are installed now, because it is natural and easy for the thumb to release the snap. I know the argument about snagging on something but I give little weight to that, unless it is used for bush crafting and I really do not see this knife in that role. Thinking about the position and number of straps, I think it would be interesting to double the width of the strap and keep the bottom of it where it is now. Oh, and use two snaps, one above the other. Make the strap as tight as possible but not so tight that it is difficult to snap closed, of course. nick

Man, you are the creative one, aren't you? Brilliant idea, my friend! I'm no help here though... nick

I totally agree with your clothing choice, Matt. I was actually making fun of the younger guys that wear this Capri style recently. It looks very effeminate to me after seeing it for years as a ladies pant. Guess I should've used a Smiley Face on that comment. Now you have to educate me and tell me what a G3 is. Around here it is a new model of pistol nick

I actually forget how many people still holster a pair of 6 irons these days! I have never been involved in Cowboy Action Shooting, nor have I ever been to such an event. All of my firearm's experience is from a Concealed Weapons, Self Defense perspective. The belts that I was referring to are made for Concealed Weapons, so they kinda look like a normal 1.5" belt but they are thick, sometimes as much as 1/4". They are usually only holding up one gun, and maybe one or two, loaded magazines. My 9mm handgun, loaded with a 15 round magazine, weighs somewhere around 2.5 lbs.

Thank you for your understanding. Now, I will be able to sleep tonight. Okay, now I get it, the tan will coordinate better with a lighter green tank. nick

In the U.S. Capri's are tight fitting ladies pants that stop just below the knee. However, I have seen some men wearing them lately... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capri_pants

You know, I just put my pic up after many years on this forum and now I may have to hide my face in shame after that last post. If it's gone tonight, you will know why! nick

Well, it looks like you did a really good job for a first project. You would laugh at mine. I know I am going to be sorry later but I am going to be brutally honest and say that I think it would be better in Black or a done in a dark brown or burgundy/wine, etc. which would blend nicely with the Green tank and look more masculine. Set it off with the gleam of a sliver buckle to match all of the other metal on the bike. Sorry, sorry, so sorry... Gorgeous bike! And yes, you should be very proud of your work on this! nick

Ah-ha! Mystery solved! Looks Medieval. It projects the personality that I get from your profile pic. Reminds me that I really need to put some kind of pic up there. nick

Yeah, I don't know why people do not reveal their location. It is often helpful to know, in order to give them good advice. Anyway, I understand if they are in Witness Protection or On-the-Run from the law! I only make gun belts and they are all 1.5" but if someone wanted a dress belt, I may think about 1.25" if they are not over-weight. I would consider 3/4" if they were wearing Capri's! nick

Hahaha... got it! It is not a requirement but people usually show both the front and the back of their project for full appreciation. Looks good from the front! nick

I can't say for sure how most commercial belts are constructed here in the U.S. I never really look at them because I make my own now. I think most are sewn or riveted and sometimes they have snaps. However, many of us leather workers use Chicago Screws, which are easily removed with a screwdriver. You can see them in his last pic, next to the buckle. nick

It depends on how much you need to shorten it. If you do it from the tip, you would have to cut it off behind the last hole. That may be 12". If you need less than that amount, then you take it off the buckle end. For example, if I need to shorten my belt two or three inches. If I take it off the tip, that will put the first hole very near the tip, which will look terrible and it's just not right. If I take it off the buckle end, it will not change the distance from the tip to the first hole. Everything will remain the same and I will have a proper "tongue" on the tip end. nick

Yeah, that's the way to do it. Looks like the belts that I make for myself, and my friends and relatives, except that I use an English Point. Last time I was at my nephew's house, I similarly refurbished a belt that he wanted to keep but I made a new one for him too. I actually let him do the refurbishing, as I watched and instructed. He re-dyed it, burnished some rough edges and applied a top coat. He is 30-something. nick

Okay... I going to take a wild guess... could this be a stun gun case???

Yeah, it looks much thicker than 6 oz. but it could be the angle. To clean up belt slots, I use some sandpaper wrapped around a paint stir stick. Something like 150 to 400 grit, depending on how much work has to be done, but always ending with 400 or higher. nick

This is just my opinion, there are no hard rules. Just think about proportion to the waist size and what it is used for. As an example, you wouldn't want a 1" dress belt on a guy with a 48" waist. Also, be aware of the size of the belt loops on the pants. Blue jeans will accept a 1.5" belt but dress pants may not. 1" -- for a smaller man's belt 1.25" -- for an average man's belt 1.5" -- for a gun belt or big guy 2" to 3" for a police duty belt or really big guys nick

Another nice project, Ross, and it is just so cool that it was done in collaboration with your son! nick

Well, I should let JLS say this, as it is his motto... Your stitching needs to be much closer to the gun. As close as you can get it. After a very short while, the gun will be flopping around in there. Adding Neetsfoot Oil will only make this worse, because it softens the leather, and this is not what you want for a holster... shoes, yes, holster, no. I would add that 6 oz veg tan is a bare minimum and most people would use 8-10 oz. or two layers of leather that add up to that. It's a learning process. As the saying goes around here... after 8 years of experience and $3000 investment, I can make the $80 holster that I didn't want to pay to someone else. Credit to bikermutt. nick

That looks pretty normal to me. Are you expecting it to soak all the way through the leather? nick

Do you mean .50 AE? What is the model of the gun, if I may ask? May I add to TRL's comments that you should be using probably 8-10 veg tan leather and possibly 2 layers of it around the mouth of the holster. Wet form it and then dry it in an oven between 110° - 120° to harden it. I tend to believe that several applications of dye may harden it even more but I have not tested this hypothesis. There are other processes that may contribute to hardening, such as the rubber cement used between the layers of veg tan, close spaced stitching, double rows of stitching, and top coats. nick

Yes, you are off to a good start. That is an interesting design, I have never seen anything like it. I like the contrast of the colors. What is the stamp on the back? Is that you maker's mark? It makes for a nice detail. My only suggestion (and a tiny one) is to maybe round off the corners of the strap, above the rivets, rather than leaving them square. That stitch spacing looks pretty small, but maybe not. because I don't know how long the sheath is, but I'm guessing that your 4mm chisels are tip-to-tip of the tines, with 2mm in between the tines. If so, Tandy would call those 2mm chisels. If only we could get some uniformity on such naming standards, it sure would make things less confusing. nick

Man, I LOVE the look of that. It looks like it was made at least 150 years ago and came from some European castle. Love all of the detailing that you put into this. That is an heirloom.