wizard of tragacanth

Yeah dikman... I'm gonna go do that right now. (kidding) I think that may be the last time that I use linen thread. (not kidding) I like the color for a change. The stitching on the back looks like bad, I know. I don't know if I will ever learn to stitch well. nick

Really knife work as always! Get it... I made a pun, I think... knife work? Sorry! nick

Made this holster for my Sig P365. I already have an "Avenger" style that I use often and love the comfort it affords. Wanted to give this one a try. Just finished it tonight. Haven't worn it yet. Believe it or not, this is the first brown-tone holster that I have ever made. I have made many black ones, a few blue ones and one red one! There are some flaws that I could have improved upon but I didn't bother because I am a very understanding customer. Leather: 3.5 mm (IIRC) Tandy veg tan Dye: Fiebing's Pro Dye, Mahogany Thread: Mahogany dyed natural linen Edges: Tokonole Finish: Satin Shene nick

Cool, I like the chunky, masculine look of it. nick

I would swear that I posted on this but maybe I sent a PM instead or forgot to click Send. Love the 2-tone color scheme and the contrasting welt, which turns one of the most boring parts of a sheath into a stand-out feature! Genius! Nick

Gorgeous! A work of art that belongs in a frame, not in a pocket. nick

This could end up being a very challenging project, without the knife and person present, mainly due to figuring out the straps. However, if you are the same size as your sister, you can use yourself as a model. The sheath itself should probably not be too difficult since you have a tracing. I would imagine that this should be made of a stiff, thick, veg tan leather, nothing soft. To prevent the machete from cutting the stitching, a welt is used. It is a middle layer between the front and back of the sheath. It would be maybe 1/4" wide, running the length of the blade. Accessing the machete will likely be from below, rather than over the shoulder, at least, that is what is shown in these two examples that I found. I just googled "machete back sheath" and got a couple of hits. https://sunrisecustomknives.com/9-adjustable-shoulder-harness/ On this next one, I did not want to post this video, just the link, but I cannot seem to get rid of it. Good luck. nick

You are right Fred. I don't know what I was thinking. Thanks for the correction. nick

I have used Texas Custom Dies and was very happy with their service. http://www.usacuttingdie.com/ nick

I don't think that is the consensus at all. I think that the consensus is that you should use a tool which makes slits rather than circular holes, but maybe I am reading it wrong. The slits could be at an angle, or straight in line, whichever you prefer. nick

Sorry, I don't know the answer to your question. I just wanted to say that I have never seen a rough out belt and I really like it. nick

Brian... Awesome tutorial. Lots of work went into that and it is very magnanimous of you to offer it! Many people will benefit. nick

Nice project Chuck! The colors coordinate with Sissy nick

Not being sarcastic or rude... what difference does it make if it is real leather or not? Looks like it could be "real" leather, probably a reconstituted leather as is frequently used for upholstery. nick

As a hobbyist, I don't do very many projects, so I went with a "plastic" stamp. Think I paid maybe $35 for it. It is very generic but it works. If you are doing high production, then you will want a more durable metal stamp but you may pay $150 or more for it, I don't really know. nick

Neil, round holes are not going to work for you. Can you purchase flat, angled teeth for that black tool shown in your post? nick

Black with blue or red would be nice. Moistening with a sponge is done for stamping. Submerging in water is done for wet molding because every fiber needs to be flexible. You cannot mold wet leather and you cannot mold dry leather, it has to be somewhere in between, but closer to dry. Dip your leather in the water just until it feels limp. You don't have to drown it! Take it out and let it start drying. When it has nearly returned to it's natural color, it will feel cool, it will be mold-able and will hold it's shape. There are many commercial finishes or top-coats, available. Over time, you should experiment with several to see which you prefer. I use Satin Shene because I prefer a less shiny look, but shiny is very popular. Many people use use Mop & Glo floor polish mixed 50/50 with water. nick

That is a very good first project, if you ask me. You seem to have a good understanding of what you need to do to improve it too. I'm sure your next one will show what you have learned from this one. Regarding thread color. I know that white is very popular but I am not a big fan of it. I prefer matching colors or contrasting colors (other than white). In the past, I have dyed un-waxed white linen thread with the color that I used on the holster, to get a good match. I don't think that this would work well on pre-waxed thread though, but it might. You could buy a lighter or darker brown thread and it would probably look pretty good. Have fun! nick

Hey, you are welcome Zoomer! No charge Real or Really, Nice, Leather or Leatherwork nick

Super nice... as always! nick

Yep... the back looks good too. RNL must stand for Real Nice Leather. Well, it could, anyway.

You can post this request in the "Help Wanted" section. It is approx. 6 sub-forums down from the Leatherwor Conversation that you posted this in. nick

Really nice work! nick

Nice work and nice pics too! I am no judge of stamping (because I don't do any) but I can say that your edges look great. Being totally honest though, I think a little bit of a radius on the tip of the sheath would be an improvement. nick

Don't know about user groups and I don't own one myself but there are many videos on YouTube. Have you had a look at those? I found this one a couple of weeks ago, just wanted to learn more about them. nick