wizard of tragacanth

Oh, yeah... nice! Welcome to the forum! nick

You found us! Welcome to the forum! You will find lots of great people and info here. Why don't you post a pic or two of your favorite projects. That's kinda how we get to know who you are. nick

Some thread sources: 1. Tandy 2. Springfield Leather. 3. Amazon

Go to Ian Atkinson's website and see if that is of any help. Start on this page but have a look around... https://www.ianatkinson.net/leather/leatherguide.htm You want blunt needles for hand stitching, don't use the sharp ones.

Flat or round thread is a matter of personal preference. The pic is too small to see what you have. You probably need diamond chisels. You probably need John James 002 needles or Tandy #0 Harness needles. You probably need 0.8 or 1.0mm thread. You probably need to be using a saddle stitch. Again, if you are willing to tell us what part of the World you are in... and what you are making... it could help a lot. Right now, I feel like I am playing "20 Questions"! Perhaps you could make things easier by giving us more information. nick

What part of the World are you in? If Poland is not convenient perhaps if we know your location, we can make a more appropriate recommendation. I have no idea what a pricks & stitches kit is and I am wondering if you are using the wrong tools for the project. Tried to find it on Amazon with no luck. Can you post a pic of your tools? What kind of project are you making? I wonder which videos you watched that so mislead you to purchase tools that do not work for you. I suggest that you watch some YouTube videos by Ian Atkinson and Nigel Armitage to get you going in the right direction. You can google unwaxed linen thread. It can be dyed whatever color you want but I seriously doubt if 2mm thread is the answer here. Give us more details so that we can help you better. nick

Nice work. I don't think it needs additional distressing but that's your call, of course. nick

Beautifully done. nick

Nice work. I like the color and the design. Glad to see that you DID put a "push-off" (or whatever it is technically called) to assist getting the gun out of the holster. Glad to see that you did NOT use any molding on this. Excellent design! But you already knew that! nick

Really purdy Josh. nick

Bert... Yes, we are all guilty of this from time to time and I meant this merely as a suggestion of a "Best Practice". I do not understand how you took it to mean POLICING. Was my wording too heavy handed? If so, I humbly apologize... nick

A very good point, Chuck! nick

Yes, Chris, you are absolutely correct. It is very unlikely that the dye colors are equivalent to the RGB values. This is just an estimate. We have to start somewhere. I started with my own experiment using Fiebing's Yellow and Navy Blue. This resulted in a decent Olive Green which may or may not work for the intended application. Jeff presented a formula based on RGB values and I converted it to practical dye quantities. There is no guarantee that it will work, but it might. If no one has an actual formula or source for OD dye, these are two places from which to start one's own experimentation. nick

Another nice set Ross. nick

You are contradicting yourself. We are not talking about measuring a belt for fit. Of course, the way that you are doing that is the correct method. We are talking about the the length of the of the belt past the last hole. You are saying that you measure from the last hole, when you said that you never measure from the last hole. So, on your 7 hole belt, the distance to the last hole is 3 inches. Agreed? Then you measure from the last hole for 2.5" to 3" correct? Isn't that 5.5" to 6" from the center hole? Yes??? Like I said, yes? So the OP asked how long should the belt extend past the last hole, without stating how many holes and at what spacing. Isn't it just easier to say 5-6" from the center hole? That way, the same formula is used regardless of how many holes and what the spacing is. nick

Measuring from the last hole does not make any sense. You would need a different formula for every permutation of 5-holes, 6-holes, 7-holes, with 3/4" spacing, 1" spacing, etc. A 5 hole belt with 3/4" spacing puts the last hole only 1.5" from the center hole. A 7 hole belt with 1" spacing puts the last hole 3.5" from the center hole. On both belts, the tip should be 5-6" from the center hole. You may disagree with how far the tip of the belt should be from the center hole (4", 5", 6") but to measure from the last hole just confuses everything. nick

Trust me... Olive Drab IS a color and it isn't made using yellow and black (or gray). What kind of color picker did you use and what was the actual target? Was this a MS Paint color picker used on a computer screen target? Anyway...if we are going with your color picker, it would be almost equal amounts of red and green with some blue, right? Or to be more precise: 37% Red, 38% Green, 25% Blue Or for example -- 1.5oz of Red, 1.5oz of Green and 1oz of Blue. That assumes that you had your color picker on a true Olive Drab. And of course, that depends on the actual value of each of these colors in dye form. nick

Oh, I see... I just went to the Staff tab and PM'd "Administrator". Well, forget about it... doesn't matter, but thanks for your response Fred. nick

I did a quick experiment with Fiebing's Pro Dye. 2 parts Yellow to 1 part Navy Blue = Olive Green May not be exactly what you want, but pretty close, it may help to add a tiny bit of Orange to that. nick

Just wondering. So far, it has been two days short of a month. I hope that I am not stepping on toes by asking this question. I did a search and looked for a FAQ on it but could not find anything. nick

I would add to this, to use more complete or descriptive titles on your posts. Simply saying "Leather Dye" or "Question about Leather Dye" or even "Mixing Leather Dye" is not descriptive enough -- whereas, "OD Green Dye Recipe" works! Someone knows what they are getting into when they click on it. nick

I am completely confused. None of this makes sense. First, there is a confusion of terminology. There is no such thing as a flat-back pancake holster and these terms have been used interchangeably in a couple of statements here. They are two completely different designs. A flat-back holster is flat on one side and all of the molding is done on the other side. A pancake holster (or 50/50) is molded equally on both sides. I'm pretty sure that you want a flat-back holster. An IWB, "Inside the Waist-Band" holster is worn inside your pants. An OWB "Outside the Waist-Band" holster is worn outside your pants. Which will this be? Right now I am thinking -- IWB, but not sure. So, is this flat-back holster that is going to be worn inside the pants on the left side, say somewhere between the 8:00 and 11:00 position? Is the flat part going to be facing in, toward your body or facing out, toward your pants? Somehow, I am thinking that you might want to put this between the belt and pants, and yes this has been done. It uses a wide loop sewn on the front-center of the holster. There are no wings at all. You can see how confused I am. nick

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That knife is sweeet! nick

So, this would be for a left-handed shooter, worn on the right side, so it would be a cross-draw holster... right? And it would be worn inside the waist-band? What would you change from the picture above? nick