wizard of tragacanth

To create a sight tunnel, you can use a dowel or chopstick. Sand one side flat and cut it to length (or use square stock and round off the top edges). I wrap the gun in Saran wrap, then place the spacer on top and tape it in place, using a couple of turns around the barrel. I hope you are getting your slot punch real soon! nick

Look at the second picture from the top. See the light blue layer of leather between the front and back of the sheath? That is a welt. In a knife sheath it is used to prevent the knife from cutting the stitching of the sheath. Welts are also used in shoes for different reasons. nick

Here is a post from October, that may be of some help or possibly more confusion.

I found this quote from Weaver... "If you get the linear inch of the pattern you are looking at and multiply that x 400 it will give you the amount of pressure needed to click out the die. Holsters vary in size a lot so I can't say for sure. As an example, if you have a die that is 10 linear inches, it would take approximately 2 tons of pressure." No mention was made of the weight of the leather and maybe that does not matter too much. nick

Hey Dwight... I'm sure you are right! I did not use a groover on the back, nor the front. I'm just glad that the stitching looks better on the front, rather than the other way around! Yeah, we will see. This is the first iteration of this design. The high leading edge was an experiment. It may work okay because this gun is very small, there is not a lot of barrel to clear the leather. I could re-do the stitching but I ain't gonna! Hahaha. I don't use a hammer on my projects because I would probably ruin them but I did try burnishing the stitching down. It didn't really improve the looks. I just need to improve my technique, or use a stitch groover! I just realized that in these pictures, the gun is not fully seated in the holster. Don't know how that happened. Thanks to everyone for your input! nick

Yeah dikman... I'm gonna go do that right now. (kidding) I think that may be the last time that I use linen thread. (not kidding) I like the color for a change. The stitching on the back looks like bad, I know. I don't know if I will ever learn to stitch well. nick

Really knife work as always! Get it... I made a pun, I think... knife work? Sorry! nick

Made this holster for my Sig P365. I already have an "Avenger" style that I use often and love the comfort it affords. Wanted to give this one a try. Just finished it tonight. Haven't worn it yet. Believe it or not, this is the first brown-tone holster that I have ever made. I have made many black ones, a few blue ones and one red one! There are some flaws that I could have improved upon but I didn't bother because I am a very understanding customer. Leather: 3.5 mm (IIRC) Tandy veg tan Dye: Fiebing's Pro Dye, Mahogany Thread: Mahogany dyed natural linen Edges: Tokonole Finish: Satin Shene nick

Cool, I like the chunky, masculine look of it. nick

I would swear that I posted on this but maybe I sent a PM instead or forgot to click Send. Love the 2-tone color scheme and the contrasting welt, which turns one of the most boring parts of a sheath into a stand-out feature! Genius! Nick

Gorgeous! A work of art that belongs in a frame, not in a pocket. nick

This could end up being a very challenging project, without the knife and person present, mainly due to figuring out the straps. However, if you are the same size as your sister, you can use yourself as a model. The sheath itself should probably not be too difficult since you have a tracing. I would imagine that this should be made of a stiff, thick, veg tan leather, nothing soft. To prevent the machete from cutting the stitching, a welt is used. It is a middle layer between the front and back of the sheath. It would be maybe 1/4" wide, running the length of the blade. Accessing the machete will likely be from below, rather than over the shoulder, at least, that is what is shown in these two examples that I found. I just googled "machete back sheath" and got a couple of hits. https://sunrisecustomknives.com/9-adjustable-shoulder-harness/ On this next one, I did not want to post this video, just the link, but I cannot seem to get rid of it. Good luck. nick

You are right Fred. I don't know what I was thinking. Thanks for the correction. nick

I have used Texas Custom Dies and was very happy with their service. http://www.usacuttingdie.com/ nick

I don't think that is the consensus at all. I think that the consensus is that you should use a tool which makes slits rather than circular holes, but maybe I am reading it wrong. The slits could be at an angle, or straight in line, whichever you prefer. nick

Sorry, I don't know the answer to your question. I just wanted to say that I have never seen a rough out belt and I really like it. nick

Brian... Awesome tutorial. Lots of work went into that and it is very magnanimous of you to offer it! Many people will benefit. nick

Nice project Chuck! The colors coordinate with Sissy nick

Not being sarcastic or rude... what difference does it make if it is real leather or not? Looks like it could be "real" leather, probably a reconstituted leather as is frequently used for upholstery. nick

As a hobbyist, I don't do very many projects, so I went with a "plastic" stamp. Think I paid maybe $35 for it. It is very generic but it works. If you are doing high production, then you will want a more durable metal stamp but you may pay $150 or more for it, I don't really know. nick

Neil, round holes are not going to work for you. Can you purchase flat, angled teeth for that black tool shown in your post? nick

Black with blue or red would be nice. Moistening with a sponge is done for stamping. Submerging in water is done for wet molding because every fiber needs to be flexible. You cannot mold wet leather and you cannot mold dry leather, it has to be somewhere in between, but closer to dry. Dip your leather in the water just until it feels limp. You don't have to drown it! Take it out and let it start drying. When it has nearly returned to it's natural color, it will feel cool, it will be mold-able and will hold it's shape. There are many commercial finishes or top-coats, available. Over time, you should experiment with several to see which you prefer. I use Satin Shene because I prefer a less shiny look, but shiny is very popular. Many people use use Mop & Glo floor polish mixed 50/50 with water. nick

That is a very good first project, if you ask me. You seem to have a good understanding of what you need to do to improve it too. I'm sure your next one will show what you have learned from this one. Regarding thread color. I know that white is very popular but I am not a big fan of it. I prefer matching colors or contrasting colors (other than white). In the past, I have dyed un-waxed white linen thread with the color that I used on the holster, to get a good match. I don't think that this would work well on pre-waxed thread though, but it might. You could buy a lighter or darker brown thread and it would probably look pretty good. Have fun! nick

Hey, you are welcome Zoomer! No charge Real or Really, Nice, Leather or Leatherwork nick

Super nice... as always! nick