Pablo27

I just bought a new one a couple of years back from these guys: Sheffield Knives J. Adams Ltd, 124 Scotland Street, Sheffield, S3 7DE , United Kingdom. They also have a web page. Can't figure out how to use it from the way the edges are, I have one,lol

Actually what I am trying to make is a Halter top for a lady friend of mine so I have no pattern, just measurements. My plan is to first draw the pattern on paper, then make it out of cloth, then actually make the deer skin one. Does that sound like the right process? I don't quite understand where/when I need to allow for the thickness? Could someone break that down a little more please. Thanks for all the reply's. Paul

Wanting to make a shirt out of Deerskin, or maybe calf or lamb. Any experience in this area? Looking for anything I need to know, like experience in stitching, seams, stretch, etc. Any help or advice would be appreciated and is much needed. Paul

Sorry for the delay in responding as priorities shifted and just now getting back to the post. Thank everyone for the time and advice, however I am afraid that maybe what I said isn't what I meant? I have watched the video by Don and many others, and my intent was not to antique the entire piece. What I was attempting to do was to see the result of antiquing trying different types of resist and what the effect would be with each, so that I might have a better idea how each one worked(or didn't). My reason for posting was that I did not really see any coloration (antique) in any of them? I was hoping to get some feedback as to why there wasn't any real color in any of them, much less any variance among them. Sorry if I wasn't clear about that, and still don't know what I am not doing right?

Thank you for the quick reply and the sharing of your experience, I totally agree with you on the tried and true and the purity of the trade. My point here actually was that they all worked too well. Doesn't look to me like there was any antique applied at all? I realize that Super Sheen is a water based product, I expected the paste to really penetrate it. I Did use Clear lac on another piece that I didn't show and the result was the same. I was just trying to compare the different resist's (?) to see which combination I liked, but, I just didn't get any antique look at all with any of the combinations? So I'm not sure where to go from here, I will keep trying though. Thanks again for help.

I tried an experiment using Feibings paste Antique and various different types of resist. For some reason the antiquing didn't work on any of them? On this piece I used Mop-N-Glo top half 1 coat, bottom half 2 coats, Sheridan Brown Feibings paste. On this piece I used Super Sheen two coats Medium Brown paste. On this piece I used RTC on the top portion 2 coats, and 50% Reslone 2 coats on the bottom. I really don't see any antique to speak of on any of the pieces. Any and all thoughts welcome please.

I realize this is and old post but I am looking at basket weave posts and want to learn. You say draw a line form the top of the slot to the top of the slot for a guideline. I am confused as it looks like (to me anyway) the the line goes from the top of the front slot to the bottom of the back slot? I am missing something here, maybe talking about different slots? It would be gratefully appreciated if you could get me on the right track please. Thank you in advance for all the advice and time. Paul

Thank you everyone for all the advice, I really love this group. I think I figured (you all figured) it out. There is only one way for me to stamp and still see what I'm doing is to go /. Otherwise I'm always in my own way( not that I'm not use to that!). Electrathon I am looking forward to your example, really like you work. Thanks again everyone, I will keep checking back here.

I hope this isn't a redundant question but I have been researching for two days and can't find answer. What determines the direction (down to the right or down to the left) of the basketweave? Or is there only one correct direction? Hope this question makes sense to someone out there and thank in advance for any advice. Paul

Just wondering exactly how you apply the mop-n-glow,brush,spray rag? Thank you

Richard, you hit the nail on the head!! That is exactly what it is. It is Craftsman oak and was in fact from Mexico. Obviously they weren't showing when I purchased it, they just started showing up as of late. Thank you for your reply and being so knowledgeable and the info.

Please can anyone identify what these spots are and what causes them? They are all over a hide of 3/4 oz Veg tan. Any suggestions on how to get rid of them or at least use the hide? Thanks Paul

I was wondering just how do you apply the Mop-n-Glo? Brush, spray, dauber? I have tried a couple of different spray bottles and it just gets clogged after a couple of sprays, and it is a 50/50 mix. Thanks for your help. Paul

This is such a great thread, a lot of information and experience in a couple of pages. Thanks so much Art for sharing so much with us that need it. What is your opinion of Japanese Water stones? Are you supposed to use them like regular stones with a back and forth, or circular motion or just a pulling motion like a strop? Thanks again for taking the time to help us here. Paul

I have just been experimenting with all the above. A big lesson, and a time and money saver, is to apply the adhesive with an artists pallet knife. The come in many sizes/shapes, are quite cheap and spread the adhesive evenly and use about 1/3 of what I was using with a brush and takes less time to dry. I am very happy with the results. Paul