Kcinnick

I can't make the wood part.. The Sword is marked Jinsen Korea 1945 Other side marked after the war with the Lt's name It is in the original navy issued bag with his name on it that was used to ship it back as a bring back. It has the original tag showing that it went through Korea then California and then to New Orleans.

Yeah, I know nothing about the sword. I am going meet him at in an hour, we are discussing other business also. I already told him he shouldn't touch it. Any idea where to pick up a used scabbard.

It is a WWII bring back. I don't want to touch it, but the owners want it redone. It was last appraised at $1500. When I told home I would look at it, I thought he was talking about a hobby sword. When he sent the picks I freaked out. I don't want to mess up history.

One of my regular customers asked if I could wrap his Samurai sheath in leather. I have a couple of questions. First, will I destroy the value of his sheath by taking the leather off and re wrapping it. Second, I know I could lace it up all the way without any problems, but I don't think I could sew it that tight on my machine (Cowboy 4500), so any suggestions? Does anyone here do work like this and I can send him to you?

Do you have a pattern of that mag pouch, or a different angle to see how everything is attached. Your holster design is giving me lots of Design ideas..... I didn't mean to quote that last post, for some reason it won't let me edit, I would still love a pattern or more views of that mag carrier.

Ok, so if my mag is 1" deep (Theoretical) and my leather is 1/8" thick I should put my stitch line 5/8" away from the actual outline of the mag?

I have gotten pretty good at getting good stitch lines for pistols, but I suck at getting a good stitch line for mag pouches. I either get it too tight and the leather stretches funny at the stitch line or too loose and I can't get good retention. Does anyone have a pattern for a single 1911 mag pouch. Doesn't really matter if it is pancake style or designed for a clip, I really just want the correct stitch lines around the magazine. I am sure once I get it down for one style of magazine I can adjust it to other styles. Thanks, Nick

Amonia, a jar and some netting is a perfect way to color your brass. Just put a little ammonia in the bottom of the jar, put your pieces in the mesh, use the lid to hold the mesh above ammonia and you have an instant antiquing station.

Sounds like I am executing your strategy, just starting with concealment leather and casual gun belts. I haven't even started marketing and I had 6 orders for gun belts last week just from word of mouth.

Someone made a nice iwb holster that was simular to a holster that rhymes with Bersa Tax who. They posted pictures of the individual pieces of the pattern and I cannot find it through any search means. Does anybody know where that thread resides, it could be in so many places. Did it disappear? I wanted to browse that thread again before trying to make an iwb pattern. Thanks, Nick

FWIW - I was told it is the best new over stitch wheel on the market, then was told to buy an old gomph.

I tried whittemore black shoe dye today and hand burnished with very little dye transfer. I am going to clearlac the edge tommorow and hopefully it will seal with a couple light coats.

just search for a flashlight app, many are free. The one I have is called myLite. As I hit submit I realized you just want to trace whats on the screen and not actually use it as a light box to tracing paper over paper to trace something. You can download the file to your ipad and just view it as a picture in the camera roll. You can change the settings on how long the screen will stay lit.

I want to set up an inexpensive machine just to put the decorative stitch on keepers. Seems like everyone prefers the keepers to have stitch lines, I personally prefer them without. It is cumbersome to try to sew them on my cowboy set up with 277 thread. Is there an inexpensive machine out there I can look for to set up just to sew a decorative stitch on those little buggers. I love what my cowboy can do, but I hate trying to sew keepers on it. I might just hand sew them, but if there was an inexpensive machine that could sew a single layer of 6oz leather with a fairly thick thread that would be awesome.

I have belts both ways. I see a case for both ways, I thing I'll go with total length.

I apply edge dye with an empty copic marker. Works great. I just need a dye that won't come off.

The Versa Groover is amazing, well worth the cost. I am going to try to figure out what size Bob Douglas Bissonette edger matches up with a Weaver #3 edger because if his edger is half as good as his groover I will hive the sharpest English point belts around. However, I stopped grooving my belts, and only do a small tiny tiny groove using light pressure with the Versa Groover on the outside of my holsters. My machine pulls the threads plenty tight to prevent any fraying. I have quality tools where it counts and well use the harbor freight tools mainly when I need a motor to spin something. You can't buy a motor for the price of some of the Harbor freight tools. So I have a drill press that I would never use as a drill press spinning holster burnisher by spinner that I would never use as a drill press. I use the HF 4"X24" belt sander with a norton belt to smooth my edges, and a harbor freight grinder that has an amazingly quiet motor on it when its only spinning some duck cloth. I have more in the Versa Groover than the belt sander, drill press or grinder and its well worth the money (I have all three tips, $80 for the groover and first tip, $30 for the other two tips) Heck, I didn't pay $80 for any of those items from HF, I was really just buying the motors to spin something.

Same here, I give myself 9.5 and 4.5" though instead of 9" and 4", I bet we end up with the same size belt when cut though.

So my hunt is on for the most colorfast black and best way to apply clearlac to just the edge neatly. Copic markers put it to thin, small wool daubers tend to drip. I'll get it right, and the inspiration will come from this group.

I can make pretty edges thanks to spinner and hidepounder. They just rub off without enough clearlac to make the pretty edges look like plastic. With hidepounders tutorial Ican make two pieces of leather look like one. I can't find a source of Lincoln dye. Should I switch to using dark brown for my brown belt edges? Will it be more colorfast? Once I am done with my drum dyed black leather I am using roon for all black. If I apply roon with a copic sketch marker, will it turn just where I put the roon or will it run into my natural liner? Thanks

Is there a black dye that won't rub off? I like dyeing belt edges black, but fiebings pro black rubs off really easy. What's the best? Angelus, Lincoln, something else? I hate putting heavy coats of clearlac on the edge to keep black from rubbing off.

I am just curious, I have seen it done both ways. Do you stamp the length of leather from the fold to the center hole. Or to you stamp the size from the end of the buckle to the center hole? Thanks, Nick

I only applied it to the edge so it looks OK. No way I would ever coat an entire item in that stuff.

I got mine to stop with 4 heavy coats of neatlac, clearlac, whatever LCI calls it these days. It was suggested to me to try lincoln dyes, I just haven't found a source yet. The only color I have a problem with is black, so in the future I am just going to vinegeroon all my black, only problem is I still have some drum dyed black leather on hand that I need to use. As soon as I find a supplier of lincoln black dye that charges less than $11 to ship a $4 bottle of dye, or find a supplier I can buy other stuff from that has it I will try it out. BTW, its a PITA to put on 4 heavy coats of clearlac.

Its what I was told to do, seems to work fine. I use two coats of contact cement, first coat seems to soak in, second coat is perfectly tacky. Make sure you press hard to get a good bond with some sort of roller.