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Everything posted by Suicide
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From the album: Notebook cover
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From the album: Notebook cover
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From the album: Notebook cover
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Thnaks, guys, seems you right - I did put much stains at once and initially leather was a bit dryer than has to be. I used dauber, did not soak in. I attached the picture with that fragment closeup - marked cuts with red.
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Hi folks, I have made decorative cuts after tooling done and they were looking pretty ok - open in the begining and tapered to zero at the end. I give leather to dry, then partially dyed, partially stanned it with eco flo (waterbased) stuff. Now piece drying and still a bit dump, but I see all the cuts almost closed and became kinda uniform - same tapered to zero at the ends Is there any tricks to keep cuts opened and well shaped after dyeing? Thanks in advance and Merry Christmass to everyone!
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Thanks, Aaron. No, I'm using the poly mallet. Well, anyway, maybe I need to have leather a bit more wet while stamping to have more deep imprint with no increase of impact force?
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Hi everybody, Just wondering how deep it should be a good lookin stamp impression? I cut as suggested for about 1/3 of leather thickness. Lets say I'm using 3 mm thick leather, so I cut about 1 mm deep. But seem I can get the only beveller's impression for all that deep, rest of the tools (lets say backgrounders) give good plain impressions but that impression looks a bit shallow and "slicky" - in other words it is not look like 1 mm deep. To have deeper impression I need to strike backgrounder as it woul be nail and impresses becomes uneven and has a lot of tool marks. Vieners by some reasons give me on the same piece very good shaped and colored impress but it is also looks very shallow. So I'm wondering if I should live with even and not very deep impression or should I increase the strike force and try to get even background hammered tool? Please help to newby Thanks! PS I 'm using Tandy's leather and Tandy's stamps, casing leather according to Bob's recommendations here.
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Thanks, guys! Phil, They are 5 W UK (37 EUR) size, there is no padded sole inside the mocs, but there is "quad sandwich" as a bottom part - fist (which touch floor) layer is a bison (creme one), then there is felt sole (about 3 mm thick) in between of ;eather layers, then there is going white deerskin and finally brownish deer nubuck as a lining on top of white deer. Felt sole glued by both side to both of layers. Then I was made them, I felt such construction a very stiff, I could say stiff as a normal sport shoes sole, but now after couple of days she says it became very cozy and pliable. BTW I took pattern from the "craftmanual of North American footwear" book and just a bit modified it by added all this soling stuff.
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"Old people"usually say its better to oil leather first. NYS Guy, If your sprayer won't work for 50/50 , just delute resolene more to have it thinner. You need the only first very thin coat to be sprayed on. Next coats you can put with dump sponge with no fear about possible mess - your dye will already partially sealed with the first sprayed layer of deluted Resolene.
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Thanks, Brian! Ah, I see.... Next time I try to make it a bit looser. That time it was a place connecting bottom/vamp and tongue of moccasins so I pulled as hell...
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Hi everybody! Can you please suggest me when I should use round holes (made with rotary punch) and when it worth to use just slits made with chisels? To specify lets say I use: - thin 1 oz garment leather - very soft , __stretcheable__ and pliable leather like 3-4 oz deerskin - semi-thick 4 oz veg tan - heavy 10-12 oz veg tan What is better to use in each case? So far I experimented with 6 oz deer, made round 3mm holes with punch, braided it with 3mm cow lace and frankly not satisfied much with results: some holes stretched along the lace directions and looked as a real HOLEs, not as it suppose to be or at least I'd like to have - "lace is going from within the skin and come back into with no any slots visible". Thanks in advance!
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Thanks, Aaron!
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Hi guys, Just finished these ones. Brief details here
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Hi folks, Just finished this pair. Has triple sole (with felt midsole), made from the 4 oz buffalo/heavy 7 oz white deerskin and nubuck thin 1.5 oz deerskin as lining. Laced all around with 2 different styles. Current owner with his new pair shoes is on the second pic
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Full insert tongue buffalo/deer moccasins
Suicide added images to a gallery album in Our Leatherwork Galleries
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From the album: Full insert tongue buffalo/deer moccasins
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From the album: Full insert tongue buffalo/deer moccasins
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From the album: Full insert tongue buffalo/deer moccasins
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From the album: Full insert tongue buffalo/deer moccasins
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From the album: Full insert tongue buffalo/deer moccasins
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From the album: Full insert tongue buffalo/deer moccasins
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Hi, I'd rather use an airbrush with 50/50 deluted Resolene. At least for a first coat, to seal dye with no mess.