Suicide

Cool! Great job! What have you used as these small "pearls" around the inner circles and at the bottoms of these cuffs?

Just tried it. Having a tooled piece, I oiled one half of it and dyed the second half with deluted canyon tan dye. Let it sit over night. Oiled part became a bit darker then original undyed color (as expected), dyed part had almost yellow color. Then I dyed with the same deluted dye part what was previously oiled, and oiled previously dyed part brom the both side - front and back. Waited over night and now see both parts have exactly the same dark yellow color. The only slight difference I noticed after buffing is seem part what was initially dyed and then oiled shines more than the other one. Both have like mellow gloss, but anyway a bit diffenrent. No other differences observed.

Thanks alot, Chavez, for sharing your exp . I'm sure in that ANY sort of experience IS valuable, doesn't matter how many months you have hands on something. And lets wait for gurus suggestions. Cheers!

Hi Chavez, Nice to hear you again. Yep, Bob`s method (thanks him for these great tips) works pretty good for me also. But! I have the whole 8oz bottle of Edge-Kote And before I give it a pass into trash can I'd like to give it a second chance to show me how good it is (you know, always give a second chance ) I heard about resolene chips off the edges, but just wandered if super/satin shene of something else can be used. Of course it might be an issue with edge-kote itself (like for example kote doesn't give any of finishes come into deep and stick better), but I hope it is not. I also have a bit crazy idea try to mix resolene and edge-kote together and use like one final layer, also mixing with any of shene might (I hope) work. As for Bob's method you are using, does resolene works for you as a finish? Or do you using something else to finish edges what already burnished ?

Hi guys, Quick question: if I used edge-kote, should put layer of any finish/shene/beeswax etc on top of it? I seem see edge-cote is rubbing off a bit being non-covered. Thanks in advance!

Yesterday I finished my belt with Tandy's bison brown dye and got kinda grey-dark green instead of any kind of color I could call brown.... This should give us a hope as seem they have very broad spectrum of colors which they just don't know how to call and thus just in case put "blabla-BROWN" label onto it

Found also that one. Thanks alot!

It won't work well in my case as I sewed 2 about 4oz bison skins together with garment nylon. All I have tried until now - make a knots, sew end stitches back and forth, put ends in between of layers - all these doesn't work well and sooner or later ends come out a bit and become loser.

Thanks, guys, for these tips. Found both. Pattex looks a bit suspicious as it stated as "all-around adhesive" and I don't trust much to such. May be I wrong though.

I had exactly the same issue with Fiebings Oil Dye on the belt I made. After dye dryes , I just put thin layer of neatsfoot oil on top of it and seem oil turned that redish tone into quite normal medium brown as I guess it supposed to be. That time I didn\t worry much about final belt color, so had a room for experiments Try it on scrap, hope it helps

Thanks, guys. The final small drop of glue should work for me.

Hi guys, Is there any other way to fix the thin nylon threads after sewing rather than make a knot and then a bit warm it with lighter and then tap on? So far I have no success with that method and have either loose or burned knot Thanks in advance!

Thanks, Joe. Method sounds a bit brutal but I'll give it a try as it costs almost zero

Hi guys, Can you please recommend something more cheap instead of Tandy's blades for their safety beveler/ skiver? I bought "100-pack" of razor half blades for 25cents and they work just perfectly in their lacer. But being put into that skiver , it starts really to shave not to skive the leather. So any suggestions/recommendations ? Thanks in advance!

Hi folks, I'm looking for something to glue outer EVA or rubber sole onto rubber midsole. Barge, Master etc seem none of them available in Europe. Has anybody used that Nisan atom glue? http://www.cobblersu...-Instant/Detail How strong it is? Is it waterproof? Is it flexible when cured? The another option is ShoeGoo or E-6000, they also available here. How they are comparing to that Nisan Atom Glue? Thanks in advance!

Thanks for these tips, I'll try this out.

I do agree with Jim. Looking great to me. BTW what the thickness of the skins you were using for these ?

Great job, Phil! And if you avoid to walk by concrete I bet they will last much longer than while having the original rubber sole.

BTW here is my previous pair done. they have just gathered toe with no pleats but also finished with round mexican braid.

Sure, I will post mine as soon as finish my project. (That small "test" scrap I has practiced with is not a good example how it finally should be )

Thanks Dave! I just gave it a try and it works for me perfectly.

Thanks, Dave! Sorry its hard to me to explain it "intelligible" in foreign language but you understood it perfectly, thanks! Is there any of methods/patterns use to punch holes along such the edge (what is going to have pleats) in advance rather than punch it while assembling in place?