Tommyboy

I was thinking about buckle sized holes. For larger holes you'll need a hollow punch set. Again heat 'em up and push through. Something i didn't mention before, use a piece of scrap to try different temps. Too hot and it makes a charred edge.

Biothane has a nylon webbing core. Easiest way i know to punch holes is to take and heat up something like a nail and push it through. It essentially melts a hole through.

http://www.faeringdesigninc.com/instruct2.html Here's an example of how to use clinch nails. This example is used for wood, but it's very similar for leather. Fair warning, it's a pain.

Look up clinching nails and clinching irons. They are not used much anymore, but that looks like what was used.

I agree with VM on the billet side, but the buckle side needs to be adjusted to the buckle you are using or if you are using double keepers. With that i recomend making a paper template to adjust for variations.

The "standard" taper is a minimum 1/2" smaller than the rest of the belt. Depending on buckle styles, you can adjust from there to have the outside of the buckle flush. As far as belts galore is concerned, his designs work best with end bar buckles and need to be adjusted for center bar and trophy buckles.

I just sandwich the clip between the double layered 3oz. The one shown was a prototype that my wife saved from the scrap bin. She's used it daily for about 3 years now. With just weldwood holding the layers at the clip, there's no noticable wear.

With the style shown I stitch on the straps first, stitch the sides second, then stitch the bottom.

You can use a nylon cleaning brush to raise the nap on the flesh side by brusing against the natural "grain". To texture the nap or give it a worn look, use a stiff wire brush but be careful of taking too much material away at a time. The picture you show is of chrome tan leather and uses what appears to be suede sewn on. Much different than what you want to make. So as far as dying goes, dont use regular leather dyes for the flesh side. It will tend to glue the fibers together and when you go to raise the nap, fibers will break off and you'll lose color. Instead use a suede dye to keep it soft so you can brush up the nap. As was suggested before, practice before applying the technique to a finished project.

The jacket you show is not carved/ tooled leather. It is made from diffrent textured chrome tanned leathers and sewn together. Veg tan leather is what is used for carving and tooling.

A Glock 17 avenger pattern you posted over on the holster section requires a password. Password is "glock17". Other than that, there have been no others that needed it.

Pretty much. It's an old school field holster. They are made like a skirted holster just without the skirt.

The lower snap holds the strap together that keeps the folded over belt loop in place.

Thanks for the patterns and inspiration.

If the concho is too short, use a book binding post extension. You can get a variety pack at hobby lobby.

You can try block dyeing. Here's a video by George Hurst http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=pmby8aSVan0