DoubleC
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Posts posted by DoubleC
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I apologize, this is a scanned picture, since I moved I haven't been able to find my camera battery charger. I did the gusset on the front panel like Sylvia suggested but I could still use some answers to my other questions. I'm done for the night, or at least my fingers are.
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I think that will work just fine An. I like that soft look, feel too. Cheryl
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LOL, CTG, I'm not stuck, I grew up in 'British' units and I'm old enough I don't have to change. I'll leave that to the younger kids. If it all converts to oz and inches why would not knowing mm get me ripped off? Besides without knowing how thin that was, I told her to double it which would come out to about, what was it you recommended? 6 oz, which would be uh,, 3/32 of an inch or 2.4mm. Odd, seems we were talking the same language all the time. Cheryl
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Well I can almost certainly say you don't want to use quilt batting with leather. I say almost certainly because I learn something new everyday. Try just pinning a couple of the edges together, edges that will need trimmed and put it down. Does it puddle? If it is too soft a temper you could just glue another layer of your leather like I did to it, but instead of all over hiding the suede, just to the gusset. It will hold it's shape that way, still have a soft temper and allow your suede to show.
I jumped right over the 'bind' to you wanted to hide the flap. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by bind it but if you don't want to do that you could dye the raw edge with a dark color. That gives it a finished look. Some people just use permanent markers for that. I mean there's a whole tutorial on doing edges here but I'm not sure how well burnishing would do with your leather.
Could you post a picture of it?
And if you have made bags before from cloth I think you're going to do fine with this.
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Hi An. I'm making my first messenger bag too and I can answer some of your questions while I'm waiting for some people to answer the questions I have about mine on another thread. First I haven't a clue what 9mm is like so that will hinder me a tad :-) It really depends more on the temper or stiffness of the leather, type of leather and if you want a drapery look to it or a stiffer composition if you're meaning interface and lining as the same. I was working with 20z and 3oz so I lined mine with a stiffer veg tanned. I wanted it to be kinda drapery looking but not puddling on the floor.
The first thing that comes to mind for hiding the flap closure is either a magnetic snap attached a lining on the flap or you could use a guitar end strap type method. Sorry I can't be more help. Cheryl
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I'm doing the outside edges out Sylvia so it's a blind stitch. Well I could leave the lining open at the top, I mean it doesn't need sewn because I glued it :-( But I never though about the weakening aspect of going across the back which is also the flap. I can shore up the curve of the flap with the veg tanned like I have the inside or regular veg tanned. At the risk of this looking like a walking circus I've been thinking of using natural veg tanned or maybe suntanned with resolene to sew on to hold the D rings for the strap and to sew the handle on. So I could also sew it to the natural veg tanned on the inside. But like I said with the rusty/black rough rider, black pig, and orange veg tanned I'm wondering if it would make it really busy.
I also I think I'd like to make a suitcase type handle for this. I could drill a rein rounder but I wonder again if I'm getting away from the simplicity and 'rough hewn' look I wanted for this. I'm going for something a cowgirl wouldn't mind throwing in the back of a dusty truck kinda. Am I making any sense? (probably not, LOL)
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Sorry, also wanted to ask if I can still use resolene on this type of leather and if not how to waterproof it, or make it water resistant. Thanks again, Cheryl
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OMG Jack with the 'oooops' issues I have sometimes, this looks like magic. Thanks so much. Now can you just find me a paper cutter thing that will cut leather straight since me and straight don't live on the same block. Or same state. I'd be such a happy camper. Cheryl
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I decided to attempt another bag after the fiasco several months ago when it looked so easy. Been here long enough now to know it's my biggest challenge to date. I'm using this http://springfieldleather.com/33869/Desert-Rough-Rider-Sides/ for the front, back and flap and this http://springfieldleather.com/32394/Lining%2CGlazed-Pig%2CBlack%2CSqFt/ for the gussets. Since this is thin leather with a drapery temper I decided to use some orange embossed veg tanned for the lining including the gusset. That was a good choice as far as really adding substance to the bag and also matching the Rough Rider well. What didn't work well is I'm saddle stitching it all together and the veg tanned isn't the least bit stretchy while the other two are. I can't use an awl, it just laughs at me so I nailed the front and gusset to a wooden cutting board and used a finishing nail to put the stitch holes in, and I'm about to finish the saddle stitching on one side of the front. Which means I'm getting ready to turn a corner and I don't know if I need to cut the gusset in the corner like you would upholstery or just sew it as is. I don't want to make it easier, just do it right and not weaken the bag.
Also the back and flap is one piece, is that going to be a problem? I'm going to saddle stitch across the front and back to hold the lining but have left the flap part the way it came off the cow, all uneven and ragged. I really like the look. However is it necessary to cut it from the back?
Since I hadn't intended to line the flap, do I need to in order for the rough rider to keep the handle secure, shore it up some? The buckles will be on the lined front with more support and the strap on the gusset so also supported. I'm really taking my time with this and want to make sure I do whatever is possible to make it come out right. The black gusset with the rusty/black leather that shows is really just looking so good together.
Thanking you in advance for any help. Cheryl
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Thanks Artimus, that's really beautiful. Oh the 'oooops' I've had since this thread started :-) I seem to forget more than I learn and I love it when an old thread surfaces to help with my memory. Cheryl
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C2 I would agree the leather is probably too wet instead of too dry. It was my first thought because I do the same thing all the time. I'll wet my leather, and get ready to use my stylus to copy a pattern on it and I never let it dry enough. Probably the best tool a leather worker owns is patience. So I end up copying the pattern and it's already starting to disappear before I'm done so I have to go back over it with the stylus again on the raw leather trying to save as much of the pattern as I can.....and I haven 't even gotten to swiveling or beveling yet. You'll see in thread after thread here you want the leather to be almost the original color you started with before you wet it before copying a pattern, cutting, beveling, matting, any of the things you are trying to do. After I'm pretty sure my pattern isn't going to disappear after the second trace I'm disgusted enough to let the leather dry properly. Same with a swivel knife or backgrounder. You want your cuts to be at least a third of the leather thickness but not on wet leather. That will compress the leather, make jagged edges and dull your knife quick. Beveling the same, if it needs rewet do like Pete said, spray it and get the extra up with a sponge, or just use a sponge and still get the excess up. You're not going to get those pretty burnish marks on wet leather and about all you'll be able to save on wet leather without redoing it is the cuts.
I'm just speaking from my personal experience of close to a year of doing this and STILL not letting my leather dry enough. Try taking a scrap of leather you haven't wet at all and background it and see how much more of it keeps it's shape than what you have. I really hope this helps.
Oh and the rest? Swivel cut marks, beveling? Just practice, no secrets to those. Cheryl
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I know Allen, and he's really excited about the collar but is totally oblivious when I tell him I need the rest of his payment to order the D rings and Chicago screws. He said last Weds. 'I should have at least $10.00 by the end of the night,' but I couldn't stand being there that long. He dropped off the collar after taking it home to try it for fit on his dog to a friend of mine with the invoice I showed him of what things had cost so far, but not a dime did he give her. Like I said, considering it a stupid tax and I'll just the collar on my dog if I don't have anymore money from him by Weds. I'm not going to beg him for enough money to finish the project, I'll give him the 10 back he gave me though my friend (she works at a store he comes in every day) and Skadi will have a nice, new collar much nicer than the one I made her before. Sometimes you just have to learn these things yourself before you believe someone isn't going to take you serious. When the 10 bucks shows up with no collar he'll realize I'm serious then but it will be too late.
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I have a hard time with no, and I'll finish the collar, even if I have to do it on my own money. I've been told time and again get at least 1/2 up front, and if I can't learn to do that, then I guess it was just a 'stupid tax' I think it's called on here :-) I'll make it a baby present and try and do it different the next time. I got totally stiffed on another order so I shouldn't feel so bad about this, got 1/3 :-)
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I have one I wish I'd turned down. Someone I know and like that wanted a dog collar. With pyramid spots. And all silver colored hardware which is ok. Except I've never done spots. And he wanted it in black which I don't do because I had a really bad experience with USMC once. Anyway I ordered the spots, buckle, black oil dye (worked damn good) dee rings, edge kote and intended to back so the metal wouldn't touch the dog. But I didn't have any black so he told me to order it and I did. I charged him a whopping 10 bucks for my time but I'm having trouble getting the money for the supplies now and he's completely forgotten I ordered the pig lining just for him. And I got it wholesale and a great deal on it but I had to pay for shipping on all this stuff and I'm still just trying to get 20 bucks from him because I got the wrong Chicago screws and wrong size Ds. I GAVE him the leather for the strap. I don't have the money to order the rest of that for him. I'm not charging him for my mistakes, or the full price for a 10 pk of Ds or Chicago screws, or the whole pig I ordered but come on, 30 bucks for a lined 1 & 1/2 inch collar with spots? I've accepted I'll end up make 8cents an hour for this, LOL but I WANT my 8 cents which I won't get until he pays for the supplies. And he wants a matching belt. It will NOT be 30 bucks for setting all the spots I'll need for that. He's a sweet kid that just found out he has a baby on the way so how in the hell do you strong arm someone like that? I thought it would be good advertising locally but I wish I'd run an ad instead :-)
I'll just stay here while you all like up to slap my forehead with your palm. Cheryl
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You're quite welcome. Cheryl
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I'm FINALLY down to three and still occasionally look on eBay at them. I love the old iron. I rehab them and sell them again, but made myself stop :-) Took to much time away from my leather but they are addictive. I'd love to see the pictures. Cheryl
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Hi Will. Acrylics will do just fine if, 1 you can color inside the lines, lol and two you cut the paint with water. If I were going to do them I'd either suntan the leather or dye (stain) it first and then use your acrylics on the flowers. Put a final coat of finish on all of it. So for me the steps would be:
1. Put leather in the sun (free) Yes it really changes the color just like your skin.
2. Paint the flowers with acrylic leather paint cut with water like eco-flo or cova
3. Burnish the edges (see Bobby Parks tutorial on this under 'how do I do that')
4. after they dry well, I'd wait at least overnight, put mop-n-glo over everything, cut 50/50 with water. Works like resolene but cheaper. That would be the cheapest way to start out doin g this and still have a nice looking product. Cheryl
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If you're looking for customer service you can't beat Springfield Leather Company hands down. They'll answer and questions you have and talk to you for an hour if need be to make sure you're getting what you want. All their prices are on the website. Cheryl
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Randy it would depend on whether it's veg tanned or not. If you could post a picture it would help. And if you made the cut inside, assuming that would be the flesh side, I don't think it would take tooling. You would have to just dive in on the outside or grain side with something inside as a support. However, if the leather's been finished well it would have to be deglazed, and the finishes removed to do even that because you need the leather wet to tool, well damp and if it has a good finish on it, it shouldn't get damp.
If it were me and not knowing anything about the leather, I'd reverse engineer them and use them as a pattern on what you know is veg tanned leather. Maybe someone else can be more help. Cheryl
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Hi Willis, I find myself in the same situation where I'm going to be setting spots in a fairly thick dog collar. And I don't have a spot setter and didn't want to buy one for a one time project. A friend of mine suggested I take a piece of wood and put in two screws the width of the shanks on the spots, and file the screws so that a tap with a hammer would start the hole and keep them even. Then while unpacking I ran across an old fork that is very large and light, have no idea what it's for, why I kept it, or where it came from. The tines are almost the exact width of the spot shanks. So I'm going to score my line, and use the fork to mark the places for the spots buy putting the first tine in the last tine mark and making three marks at a time to keep them evenly spaced.
If you can afford it and plan to do this a lot, invest in the spot setter. If not, there are probably dozens of ways to come up with something you already have. Hope this helps, Cheryl
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That is absolutely beautiful. Cheryl
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What part of the hide did you use do you know? and what weight? Some leathers are stretchier than others and it looks like it's just stretched to conform to his wrist. When I intentionally distress a strap, I get it wet and roll the leather, hair side in tight rings in on itself. You could try wetting it and doing the opposite, roll it in tight rings toward the flesh side and trying to keep the edges straight at the same time. That might straighten the edge and get the wrinkles out at the same time. But I don't think it will last over time, leather just isn't straight. I mean I make guitar straps and when I punch the holes I measure down and side to side for each one because if you just measure the top hole position and last hole position and scribe a line between them, the holes never come out straight. A lot of people glue their leather down to keep it from 'squirming' away from the tool, stamp, etc. I hope someone else can be more helpful than me. Good luck. Cheryl
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really nice, just beautiful work. Cheryl
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I've had pretty good luck with resolene mixed 50/50 or the same would go with mop-n-glo. I haven't used it simply because I can't remember to put it on my store list but can remember the resolene when I order every month. I've not used waxes or lacquer. I do use bag balm to condition everything after the project is all finished. It would equate I guess to the waxes. I'm still learning, mostly by trial and error and error:-)
Do I Use Resolene Or Something Else To Protect This Leather
in Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners.
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I'm making a messenger bag out of this leather and I'm pretty sure it must be chromium tanned and I want to put a finish on it to protect it from the bad weather here in VT. Can I use my usual resolene on it and the glazed pigskin I used in the gusset? Or does it need something special, haven't worked with this type of leather before.
http://springfieldleather.com/33869/Desert-Rough-Rider-Sides/
Below is the front with the gusset sewn on, I apologize for the picture I had to scan it. Thanks so much, Cheryl