chancey77

AWESOME WORK!!!!!!!!!!

I only use Neatsfoot Oil for about 10 real thin coats (rub of with cloth very thin!) Rub off after about 30sec. Then I use a Leather Balsam. Again about 5 coats, But I let it sit and soak in each layer and buff in between each layer. Then one last heavy balsam coat and hit with a hair dryer and melt in the remaining. Then it is up to the customer if they are going to take care of it themselves or not. I always give them a can of what I am using and some advise to use it at least once a week during rain season. And tell them it is just like their boots/Jacket /Chaps if they don't grease and oil them regularly they will be wet and the life span will not be so long and the leather will be stiff instead of nice and soft. Guys and Gals from the Military tend to listen more since their boots are so important to be kept shined and waterproofed But when it leaves my shop it is water resistant 100%....It is leather and will NEVER be fully waterproof. After a decent hard rain it will be wet and so will their butt if it doesn't have time to dry. But if they are crying about a wet butt they 1. Should not call themselves a biker!!! 2. You should have charged them Double! The more they ride and the more it is in the elements the more compression the leather gets and the top layers will eventually get well seasoned and not need so much attention but when it is fresh out of the shop in the first 6 months it needs a lot of attention! If they have a lot of Chrome and keep their bike clean then it is just one more thing for them to clean and polish. Most likely they will do it themselves. I tend to stay away from Lacs! You live in the US and should try some Montana Pitch Blend, It is one of my favorites! Gives the Tan leather an amazing tone and protects very, very well. They have a full leather care line from soaps, oils,balsams. It is made from pine resin so it is a real good natural product. GOOD LUCK! http://www.mtpitchblend.com/ and here is the one i use right now http://www.carrdaymartin.co.uk/products.html?cid=MQ==

Get a good cheap piece of flat bar about 3" wide by 1/4 or 3/32. about 3-4 feet long. I have been known to use a carpenters level as well but sometimes they have rounded the corners, so that will not be so straight 100% of the time, but it is worth a shot! Good Luck! BTW! Get aluminum flat bar!!!!!!!!!!!!

I try like hell anyway! THANKS FOR CHECKING IT OUT!!!!!!!!!!!! I make a lot of seats and only in the last 3 years even bothered taking pictures(so 10+ yrs gone) and just made the web site last year, so that is 2 years worth of seats on there now, I am willing to help out anyone I can! Send me an email or PM if you have any seat questions I am always around!

OK posted mine in my last comment edit...CHECK IT OUT! Eagle is a Kaisa Chancey original...My wife drew the pencil drawing on paper for me:) So just again... Background was made by the grips from my burnishing tool:)

Not sure if it is considered a tool/compound tool in conjunction with 1 stamp/backgrounder but If it was my rules I would say a Hammer is a tool:) Be creative what can you find around the house to use as a burnisher / stamp that is 1 entity??? A rough Rock? Something from the kitchen like a butter knife. uhm...not my rules and since he is giving you a pencil or stylus i would consider a hammer a tool:) At least there is no 10minuet time constraint like so other guys post....ahahhahahahaha It is more about knife work in my opinion and exactly what Mike said:) I used the Grip on the old burnishing tool that was my dads to create the background effect! After talking about the rock and butter knife it gave me a very simple solution!

I AM GAME! I will post something very soon! 2 tools right I know what mine will be.... and NO HAMMER! That is a tool ....hahahahahaha Can I make a whole eagle or only a head???

OMG!!!!!!!!!! Well so when you get another one made..... I have used the pre embossed gator before. I had to double the seams on the bottom. ! thing to try is maybe take some Veg Tan and make a template that you can cement to the embossed leather and fold it over the veg tan is what I guess I am trying to say and then you can rivet it to the bottom of the pan. Check out my seats, I try to stay away from rivets! And attach my leather either directly to the pan by drilling out the seat pan, and lacing staight to the pan or, I make a 1 1/2" bottom piece to lace the top to and stretch the skin on the pan or just lace it with the pan sandwiched between the top and bottom leather. But if it is a Fiberglass stock seat pan then you are basically stuck with either rivets or some fancy screws with beauty washers. But def. at least fold over the bottom seams so there is some meat there to rivet to and use some glue on the bottom as well. And punch your neighbor in the neck:)

http://www.archive.org/stream/drchasesrecipes01chas#page/n9/mode/2up

I totally understand that, but it really can't be that hard, lets see they have been in business for 100 years and Dr. Chase's Recipes Came out 151 years ago, so it only makes since that something it that book will work:) I am going to experiment:) AND SHARE!

It may be different, but lets see how it can be tweaked. Might get a Pitch blend recipe out of if . I think all the wax in it may keep it from setting on the top layer. Also, I don't believe 100 years ago they called it Antique Paste, maybe they just called it Dye/Waterproofing paste?