shooter55

I recently made a few Python holsters that I used Resolene (50/50 with water) on. Put 2 coats making sure to apply in the direction of the scales. My theory is that this will help in keeping them flat and secure. Can'y verify that for sure, but it sure sounds good.

Had an order for a custom style reinforcement on a pancake. This is what i came up with. Antiqued light brown on a Cordovan Body. Opinions?

For those of you that take the gun out of the holster prior to being dry.....are you having any issues with the gun being too tight when re-inserting into the now dry holster? How do you remedy this, if so? If not, why is the leather not shrinking? Always looking for a better way. For drying, I use a converted nightstand, lined with reflective insulation inside, and a heat lamp installed in the top for my little oven. Have wooden dowels placed inside to keep holsters suspended.

Tom, It did need a little honing, but not a huge task. Works very well for me. Can't complain about any of the Cowboy stuff...... Tim

I have a fair amount of Cowboy equipment in my shop. I have the hand "pull" splitter you are asking about and for smaller width items (belts), works OK. I use that for more skiving than anything else. There is also a hand crank splitter I have from Cowboy that works great. Yes, they are manufactured in China, but with engineering apparently sent from the importer, so the specs are not left to the factory. Haven't had any issues with anything I have. Check with Bob at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine. He handles the Cowboy line. http://www.tolindsewmach.com/ Hope that helps. Tim

Great find Frank. I'm the guy that normally walks in and sees someone like you paying for something like that.........

Ian....here is my view on your question. If the product is made individually by a living, breathing person, using any resource other than a "put in here, push the button, and it comes out there" , and not an automated production line system, I think you are warranted in calling it hand-made. just an opinion. Tim

I also use the blue guns and leave it in until it's dry. If I take it out before, the leather shrinks and makes the fit a little more snug than it should be. Then I have to put the blue gun in a freezer bag (sometimes 2) and let it sit overnight to stretch it back out. The freezer bag has been my friend.

Have only done revolver holsters using the actual revolver. When you have a model gun with different barrels lengths, how do you compensate for the barrel differences. Example: J frame blue gun available in 4" barrel length. Have a J frame 3" barrel order. What to do? I appreciate the advice. Thanks Shooter

I searched threads and did't come up with this subject, so I'll go ahead and put it out there. Has anyone used a scroll saw to cut leather? If so, what blade is being used. Not being lazy, but getting tired of carpal tunnel keeping me awake at night and looking for alternatives. And yes, I am aware that there is surgery for this. Shooter

Don't know of anyone that does everything perfectly ALL the time....In the process of doing a left handed concealed holster and right after cutting it and laying out the stitch lines, I see that I canted it the wrong direction. Stuff happens....just chalk it up and use your mistakes on smaller projects. I ended up using these pieces for reinforcements on other holsters, so no loss. I asked in a previous thread about happiness with work quality. Almost all responses said they always saw room for improvement, which I absolutely agree with. Don't beat yourself up about mistakes or your interpretation of how something should look perfect. Learn and get better with each project. Post some pictures when you get it done. Always nice to see someone enjoying the craft.

I went on Wednesday and to be honest, was not at all impressed with the leather auction itself. If you were not in the front row, you had no idea what the leather weight or grade was. Very little description other than type and how many in the lot. When it's announced "black side - 3 x's the money" how do you evaluate? Had them so crammed together could see very little beforehand. I understand that auctions have a purpose and that is to get rid of as much product for as high a dollar as you can get. Some leather went cheap, and others above wholesale, so if you're a wholesale customer, you needn't bother. After looking at machinery as it was being set up, I decided to not attend on Thursday. From above posts, I made the correct decision. Did enjoy taking a tour of the plant though, so not a total loss.

Just brought in a couple of hundred snaps and find out they are 1/4" length posts. Tried one on some scrap to see if they were too short, and they worked OK, but want to be sure I don't experience them coming off down the road. Anyone have experience in using 1/4" posts for snaps on 7/8 oz leather? Need some assurance or a kick in the butt for getting the wrong stuff. Thanks, Shooter (Tim)

I agree that to use something sealed like that, may be an issue. (as noted in a previous response). I contemplated what particle said above, but figured I'd have too much money wrapped up in it. I opened Craigslist and searched for "paint booth". Guess what came up about 70 miles from me. I now have an airbrush spray booth by Passche. The HSSB-22-16 Hobby which is made for what I need. Retail for $359.....paid $100. Used it last evening. Works great!!!! Thanks for the information and opinions. That's why I ask dumb questions here. Almost always get intelligent answers. (notice I said almost always....lol) Shooter

Cyberthrasher, Apparently Brown can be attained from mixing numerous colors together. I watched the link and, yes, that is apparently is what is happening. I am drawing out the "green" when applying with a brush, sponge or cloth. The dye appears dry, but there is a possibility that it may not be totally dry, which makes this happen. I'll do a sample and let it dry for 48 hours and try it again. Yesterday, I used an airbrush application, and of course had no issues. Will probably stay with that since the coverage seems to get into areas that's hard to get to with a brush. Thanks for all the help. I'll let you know how the "test" comes out.

Curious.....I finish with Resolene, then use Leather Balm w/ Atom Wax. Have not heard of either one of the above. can you tell me what they are and what their purpose is? Thanks, Tim "Those that claim to know everything, miss the opportunity to learn new things."

Cyberthrasher Still fighting with that. Haven't tried airbrushing yet, but will be doing that shortly. Kevin, I have been finishing exactly as you suggest, but am still incurring an issue. Going to try the airbrush which should take care of it. Thanks for your input.

Thanks chiefjason. Could also be attained by using some off the shelf conditioners from TLC or Springfield Leather, I am guessing too, right?

Cyberthrasher, Think I responded in a PM, but if I forgot, Thank you for the information......

Thanks for the input Dwight. I have incorporated that into the process and as I said,works OK but didn't know if there was anything else to eliminate the "wrinkle" when it's straightened out. Appears not. I realize that leather is a porous material to start and when you coat it with a water type repellent, thats one of the downsides. Again, thanks for your input. I live about 30 west of Cleveland on Lake Erie. And may God bless you also. Tim

Have had a few issues with the leather cracking when the loop straps are wrapped for snapping shut. I am keeping the straps straight during the build and finish. I am using Fieibings Oil based dye, Resolene, and Atom wax. Should I be treating the leather with Neatsfoot oil prior to dyeing? Thought maybe I should fold the straps while molding to eliminate that, and it works OK, but when you unfold them, they wrinkle. When you re-snap they look fine. Any help would be appreciated. 'Thanks,

Are the particles and overspray when using the airbrush combustible in any way?

Curious about this. Shooter55

Looking at Harbor Freight blast cabinet to use as a dyeing booth for projects when using my air brush. Anyone tried this? It has a dust collection hole that a shop vac could filter the particles with. Is it feasible? Any body have experience in that?

When ever I dye something medium brown or cordovan and use resolene as a finish, the resolene when being applied turns green. I have been using foam brushes. Is it a reaction between the color and the resolene, or am I doing something stupid? Is it the foam brushes? Has anyone had this happen? Any suggestions would keep me from making everything black. Thanks Shooter