dilligent neophyte

Pounding leather sooths the savage welcome

here's the dilema... I received a rattlesnake skin and want to use it as face for wallets and such. the piece is 48"l x 5"w. It's kinda stiff but with a touch of water it softens up so I can work it to the shape of the wallet outer I have two questions I hope someone out ther can help answer; 1. should i cut to size and cement it to the 4oz leather back - then just build the wallet from there. or will i need to trim or inlay the piece? 2. Do I need to treat the skin on the outside for this application? thanks for your time Best DN

P.S. revolvers using a pancake style need a little extra rooom to accommodate trigger guard because of the cylinder width - when ya squeeze them in, the opening can all of a sudden squeez down and become too small I made a pancake for a .357 and left about 1/2 " all around using 7-8 oz and it was a tight fit but it streced in and worked well. The folowing S&W .500 using 9-10 oz was not so agreeable . The almost 2"width of the cylinder/frame and less strech made my estimated 1/2"-3/4" over size on the outlline too close. I ended up making another and adding +3/4" to the trigger guard side - next time maybe a thick welt all around for heavy leather and a big gun ... live and learn...

thanks for the tip - I will be re-making the holster and will try it - - the "roll" will definitelly add to the overall outline onward and forward!

-hello all thanks for any advise offered it is asways helpful --lately I started makeing holsters and have really enjoyed it . Usually I can get the gun so I lay it out and draw a pattern. Do whatever for texture or carving and then sew it up etc. So far it has been OK until I got into a couple revolvers. the Question : Is there a rule of thumb to use to accommodate the varrying cylinder bulge when putting a pattern together? I usually use 8-9oz back and front and I am parcticiing on OWB pancake style. last one was a .357 & I used 7oz on front so i think i gotr some forgiving strech and it streched enough to work. recently I tried to use the same method for a S&W .500 -- laying it down and tracing around the gun, then added 1/4" to the overall tracing outline, then draw the pattern for loops and blending it all togrether--- BUT... using 9-10oz --- when that gun met the leather ----NO WAY!!! totally POOched it. the gun was almost 2" thick i i know now I did not accommodate that --- so I'm looking for advise on how to correct or accommodate that third dimention in a specific area of the holster when workng with revolvers Anyway thanks for any advise DN

thanks for the tip Tom - - I'll try it next --- I have a little western revolver holster to do thanks

thanks Ken ---I do hear good things about Barry King tools... likely time for me to get a few and upgrade. i have completed a couple sheridan style but they seem too busy compared regards

Dang--- I thik that's good. I'm impressed on the depth of your bevel and tooling. Are you using any type in tools that seem to give you a better resolve or just giving it a sound poundin' - i have tandy tools so far thanks for the look

nice... i'm not good on the lacing work yet... you say the knife out of a filing rasp? i guess i;'ll need ot research the blacksmith stuff thanks for the look

I do like the Sheridan patterns but am no where near the "create-your-own" as a beginner I like the easy way to get a pattern. if I find a pattern that is belt sized I trace it onto a notebook paper. I then re-line it with a ultra-fine sharpie. When done the pattern can be seen thru on the back side of the paper. I then trace the back side with the sharp-sharpie and cover both sides with thin packing tape (I now use tracing mylar and save myself the tracing twice thing---but I'm slow) . anyway, use it as the mirror to the front Add a flower (or whatever) in between and repeat the left/right pattern with a break -- uuhhhhl --- takes som fiddlin to make them blend but that's where a creative spark helps --- or just wing it.. . Keep Poundin' dn

thank Chris

as a former "site stalker" ditto to the Welcome - - - I started with a tandy class last January and joind recently---after seeing all the photos qand reading up on tutorials - I have found answers before the questions which helps in trying new things. enjoy and keep after it M

great job on the details if you don't mind a question from a beginner ... how did you get that lighter strip between the stiching and the stamp work to be lighter and so defined? the detail and close fit between edge - stich - border - pattern... yowza... i have lots of work to do thanks for the views\ DN

well named and suprisingly looks good... how long did the paint job take? Q. could kydex be used and added into an IWB holster to help reinforce the opening instead of metal or specila fomred plastics you can buy? just askin...