ContactCement

Thanks for the help everyone. It sounds like I just need to seal and burnish the raw edges once the shaped leather handle reaches that stage. I found this video later today.

Would boiling or hot water make the washers tougher?

The big metal disc is 316 L stainless steel and the bolt is just ordinary plated bolt.

This website has reasonable prices. http://www.wrising.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7 I personally chose to purchase the 2 lb rawhide maul with defect and the 1 lb hammer style poly mallet-white. I am very satisfied and happy with both products shipped to me. I purchased my 2 items for the price of a single "name brand" or popular celebrity maul. The poly hammer was on sale over the holidays.

I'm crafting my own professional burnishing tool. The heavy scrap leather shown is for show and what I might attempt to use for a stacked leather handle. I however I don't know what kind of grab bag scrap leather it is and have never made a stacked leather handle. I recently made a heavy leather smoother. I still need to choose a handle material either wood or stacked leather or plastic. I purchased and recycled a 1" thick scrap stainless steel disc 2 1/2" diameter that weighs 1 lb 6 oz. I don't own a metal lathe. No metal lathe was used for my project. The scrap stainless steel disc was already machined to size and had machining marks left when it was cut to length. It took 4 hours using wet dry sandpaper, water and my granite surface plate to flatten it. I drilled and tapped for a bolt hole exactly on center. The tiny little gap near the threads is from using a counter sink to remove the burr. I cut the head off a straight bolt then put it into my drill press on low speed to file the radius and polish the edge. A buffing wheel on the bench grinder was used for the final almost mirror finish using Red Rouge. Your opinion counts should I make this into a maul and smoother combination tool? Would I make another one of these? Yes it was time consuming, inexpensive and fun.

I made a heavy leather smoother using a thick stainless steel disc that weigh 1 lb 6 oz. No metal lathe used the stainless steel disc was cut to size and had rough machining marks. I used wet dry sandpaper and granite surface plate to flatten it. The stainless steel was tough to drill and file tap. Yes it plugs a hand file easily use cheap ones. I cut the head off a bolt and put it into the drill press to sand and polish the edge. Basically I've never made a stacked leather handle before. Before learning about veg tan leather I purchased a few bags tough dyed leather cut offs purchased from a hobby store with 40% coupons. I would like to know if this other grab bag leather can be used for a stacked handle. Also what type of adhesives are best for stacked leather?

Is one better than the other? Do they really flatten wrinkles or stretch marks and help with stamping crispness? https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/craftool-pro-leather-burnisher https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/glass-burnisher

Forgot to ask earlier. Will a casing solution interfere with dye after tooling & stamping ? Or can leather be dyed before tooling & stamping ? Also will it improve awl work & stitching chisel? (Make it easier)

I picked up the $274.99 splitter on sale and six stamps at $2.99 each. They said it doesn't go on sale that low very often. So I ignored other items that go on sale more frequently. The Tippman is very impressive and well built however I personally don't need anything that heavy duty right now. I would describe it as strong and space saving. As for a poly mallet and rawhide maul I stumbled onto this online store. http://www.wrising.com/ I got a 1 lb mallet on sale and 2 lb rawhide maul for wood working as some of my chisels are very expensive. The general rule is the cutting tool must be sharper than material being cut. The tool hardness will vary. When it comes to wood handled chisels the rawhide should prevent mush rooming of the handles. Plus the rawhide has a nice texture for a powerful strike.

I fully agree that the holiday sale and Saturday super sale was pretty good. Our car was at the shop so we had a free dealer loaner car. So we finally visited the local Tandy store 54 miles away. I came back with a rather expensive item (not saying) and a few stamps. They also explained why a couple craft store stamps in a kit bent easily. The Z indicates Zinc. The Lesson. Stamps with a Z on them are Cash In The Trash.

When casing will adding leather conditioner preservative improve tooling and stamping? Does anyone know what ingredients are in this ? Is there a recipe for a homemade version of this ? easy carve concentrate. The local store is many miles away and shipping liquid don't seem like a good idea.

I don't remember the leather supplier but they have a sample variety pack can be purchased dirt cheap. See touch and feel the leathers if you have that option.

Bring sample fabric or leather with you for a demonstration. To prove the machine will indeed meet your needs. Small bobbins and needles turned me off delaying any industrial sewing machine purchase unless I were to learn upholstery repair. I almost rushed into buying the wrong machine and glad I didn't.

The Tipp man boss machine is the mechanical machine I will purchase someday for thicker projects. A few sewing machine dealers are jerks and charge too much for a re-painted obsolete sewing machines put together from junk yard parts. You get what you pay for. When the special parts you need has been unavailable or the last 90 years they will charge whatever they like. Then you can trade it in and they may give you if your lucky less than scrap metal price per pound for your machine.

I read somewhere that yellow waxes may alter colored stitching thread. I just use the non colored almost clear solid wax stick. Some oils may go rancid or rot the thread. Thinner lip balm would most likely make a nasty mess. If your making something nice, protect your time, money & effort invested in the project.