bushpilotmexico

I quests what I'm asking is can you use an acrylic over a lacquer?

Just wondering, I have been experimenting with antiquing and used WhoSheen as my resist. Once the paste drys completely is it possible to put a coat of Resolene over the WyoSheen that was used as the resist? Are they compatible with each other or should I just stick with using another coating of WyoSheen as the final finish? Thx

I always thin my Fiebing's spirit dyes before using...thanks to all for the responses....I'll just keep on wiping, doesn't affect the final finish. Thanks

Hadn't use Fiebings black dye in a long time. I'm amazed as to how dirty the leather surface is after the dye drys. I look like a coal miner after handling it. Seems like a sooty film on the surface, comes off,almost, when you wipe and wipe. Never a problem with British tan or Cordova or the other Browns. Am I the only one that has experienced the problem?

I certainly appreciate all your patterns, I can't thank you enough, I dressed up this one with some basket weave: Your Avenger style: and the mag pouch: This is my Glock 35 that I used to wet form the holster.....I will modify the pattern for the extra barrel length:

I guess this is the point i am trying to make, if you rub until it's all out of the tool marks and cuts and any impressions let's say a basket weave stamp has caused then what's the effect? Thx

I was wondering because the paste is down in all the inaccessible cracks and crevices and difficult to actually feel if it has dried. I guess if it hasn't dried properly top coating it while wet would mean that it's sandwiched between the resist and the top coat and probably would never dry?

Just wondering if you're referring to using leather stamps? I made one up and it works great for stamping especially with my 74 year old hands, saves them cramping up. The throat depth of the arbor press limits some stamping projects but works super for belts, holsters and such.

OK, that is interesting and explains a lot.....once the paste is left in the low spots (depends on thickness I guess) how long would it take to dry before you top coat it with resolene or leather sheen?

So if you rub hard you'll take it out of the cuts and impressions in the leather? Why does it come in different colors?

Hi everyone, I know I'm not the brightest bulb in the chandelier and have been struggling using antique paste. I found this link with, I suppose, an excellent video: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=35656 I made up a test piece and followed what I was supposed to do. I stamped my leather, used the neatsfoot, let it dry, applied the resist (Wyo-sheen), let it dry and then applied the antique paste. The paste was like rain drops bouncing off a newly polished car. The resist had acted like a sealer and the paste just wiped on and wiped off with no penetration. I have to be missing something and any help would be appreciated. Thx

Thanks for the heads up....I wonder what you would use for the swivel maybe a long Chicago screw?

I've searched Google until my fingers are worn out. Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction to find this swivel type strap fastener that holds both the holster and mag pouch?

Burnishing is a better idea. Thanks for the input.

Great idea thank you muchly!

No responses, so I'm going to take my best guess and assume that there is a thong at the back of the holster that attaches it to the back flap or perhaps a strap with a #20 or #24 snap. Something has to stop the holster from flapping around.

All edgers are hardened and tempered, I tried modifying the Osborne grinding and dipping in water to keep it cool. You'd take the temper out of them if you tried to change the shape. Just hoping someone has a favorite edger that will do the job. Thx

Any chance both are not attached and just hanging there?

Thanks for the info but unless the two toes were curved up and back I don't think they would edge the tight inside corner of the slot. Thx

When I punch either a 1-1/2" or a 1-3/4" slot I would like to edge around the cut. I know it has to be an edger with the front toes, so to speak, curving upwards and slightly back. I have a collection of edgers now (that's the problem with mail order) and none of them work when it comes to the 1'4" inside curve, okay on the straight stretch. My latest edger which cost me $38.00 is an Osborne Western Style Edge Tool 133-S and is equally as useless. Would anyone be kind enough to point me in the right direction/ Thx

Just wondering if anyone has any ideas as to how the holster is fastened to the back flap? It's not a Mexican loop style nor does it have a strap to hold it in place.

Thanks Dwight, I have Bianchi's videos on Western Holster making and did make up a jig as he recommends for the Buscadero belt. I was just wondering if you had a different method but looks like we're both thinking alike. Thanks, Cliff

Hi Dwight....I kind of was figuring that any belt designed to sling a holster should be cut on a curve. I read that there is approximately a 4" difference between a man's waist size and his hip size, not sure when it comes to a womans. How much of a curve do you use just for curiosity and what do you use to draw it? Thx

When making the buscadero style gun belt we all know that it's cut on a curve. The reason being the waist measurement is less than the hips and it slopes down under your regular belt towards the holster. Why aren't ranger style or Eastwood style gun belts cut the same way? Any patterns I have just show a straight belt? They are also worn on the angle.

That is probably the answer I've been looking for I have just been used to edge dying first then what ever dye I choose for the product and then applying the finish coat. thx