RoosterShooter

I already have the steel, but can't come to grips with buying rubber from McMaster Carr since it's $100 for the size needed. Would the foam used in Kydex holster making work?

Thank you.

Where would I find the specs? I'm familiar with quite a few of the military manuals, as I have several for my M1s, M1As, and several other random topics. Would I look for the specs in a military manual, or would they be on a civilian site?

I picked up a used shop press today from a yard sale. The owner said he only used it 2 times to remove bearings from a truck that he was working on, and I was all to glad at the price I paid? Being that it's so close to Christmas ... funds are tight. However, I still need to get rolling on pressing holsters. So, how can I retrofit my shop press to wet form holsters ... on the cheap? For the info ... it's a 20 ton, standard style floor press made by Grizzly.

The title says it all. I am looking for a military style leather sling that I can copy for my own use. The one I am looking for looks like the following picture.

I have the holster, but I just want a separate magazine pouch with a top flap and snap.

Depending on the problem ... I might consider selling a 'second' as a 'Blemished' holster. It would all depend on what the problem was. If it was MY mess-up I would chalk it down to experience, and start over with a fresh piece of leather. However, I have completed holsters that were A+ on craftsmanship, but when I went to oil them they ended up showing an imperfection in the leather that wasn't visible beforehand. For instance, I just completed a perfect holster, and began rubbing it down with neatsfoot oil. After 2 light coats I noticed a dark spot beginning to show up in an area that had been the same color when making it. In this instance, I would mark the holster, somewhere inconspicuous, as a 'Blemished' or 'Second Quality' holster, and sell it at a discount. If it were a cut that I made that was off, or a stitch that didn't make the cut ... I'd save it for my personal holster or start over.

I'm needing a pattern for a personal holster I am making. I am looking for something that will accomodate a Glock magazine with a snapping top closure. As many of you may know ... Glock magazines are really thick, and I don't have a pattern. Thanks

I accidently brushed across a piece of my premium veg-tanned leather while marking a holster today for cutting. Is there anything that will get Sharpie ink out of leather? I've already tried Acetone, but didn't want to try anything else without checking with you all first. Thanks

Sorry guys, but I'm wanting something quite a bit larger than an arbor press. I have one of those types for pressing on buttons and rivets. What I want is something similar to this for clicking out patterns and wet molding holsters!

I've seen different styles of bullet belt loops out there, and I'm wondering how to make them. Is there a good book that describes the technique and 'how to' for these types of ammunition holders? I would like to learn how to make the built in / attached and slide type. Thanks

I may just wait. My nearest store is 1 hour and 15 minutes away, and it's right in the middle of a major metro area. I can't justify $30 in gas when they offer $6.99 shipping. I'll just wait and see when they come back in stock.

Does anyone know where I can find a pattern for a Tanker Style holster? I've looked around, and can't find one. For the info ... I'm looking for a holster pattern for a 1911 which can be modified for other semi-auto pistols. Something similar to this ..... Thanks.

Northern Tool is on backorder as well.

I just checked and the Harbor Freight press is on Backorder until the middle of December! Anywhere else I might find one?

That's a nice press, but I don't see paying $450 + shipping. I have a vocational background in welding, metal fabrication, and machine work, and have a welder and tools required to convert a press. However, I've seen where people have used standard Harbor Freight presses to do what needs to be done. In other words ... I'd like a supplies list, and I can do all of the legwork, metal fab, and welding myself. Basically, I just want to buy a press and turn it into a press / clicker. Thanks.

Right now I'm looking into a shop press for molding holsters. Later on down the line I may want to double it for use as a clicker. Any suggestions on where to start? I already have my rubber, but nothing else! Thanks for the help, in advance.

I think the contact cement from Barge is the exact same stuff as Tandy Professional Contact Cement .... is it not? Will the sewing tape hold the nylon to the leather? Thanks.

I am working on a shoulder holster prototype, and in the process I have found that there are a few materials that I could be using that will simplify my process. I need a cement or fast drying glue that will allow me to glue nylon to nylon, and then the nylon to the leather back. This is only a step to help strengthen the straps, and is in no way meant to be a standalone fixative. I have other methods to use to reinforce the piece. So, does anyone have a solution? Right now I'm using Tandy Contact Cement, and it is entirely too messy. I need something that will glue it, dry, and allow me to sew through after drying. Thanks

When you say that you cleaned the leather with Acetone and alcohol .... Did you saturate the leather, or simply rub the leather with it? I have found that, when using Angelus Dyes that it works best when I saturate the leather with Acetone, and allow 30 minutes or so to dry. This WILL dry the leather out, remove the surface oils, and open the pores. So, you will need to go back with Neatsfoot Oil after the piece is completely dry from dying. Also, I suspect that the oiled leather you are using may have some sort of wax mixed in with the oil from the factory. If so, this will inhibit the absorption of the die. Finally, you might try cutting your dye 50/50 with the dye and alcohol. I have found this works best in my applications. Maybe some more experienced leather workers will chime in, but the above has been my experience.

The problem is this. I am making small 1" x 4" straps for a shoulder holster project. I was anticipating knocking out 30 or so of these straps so that I would have them for future projects. That makes it really hard to do when I have to pay attention to each individual strap in order to knock off the step. Perhaps I'm trying to use a paintbrush to paint a wall! Maybe I need to look into clicking them out in order to get the precision and quantity that I need. Your thoughts?

I'll try and answer the responses best I can. I cut my own straps and they measure 124/126" using a set of German Made digital calipers. I spoke to Tandy this afternoon, and described my dilemma to the clerk. He made measurements and got back to me. All of the round punches in his store measured 1 1/8" on the back side, as does mine. So, evidently they sell a strap end punch that is known to be 1/8" larger than the piece to be cut. This, in itself, causes me problems. Where is the logic in selling a 1 1/8" punch that is described as a 1" punch? Oh well, this is the straw that broke the camels back! I learned my lesson, and, as much as I hate to do it, I will start ordering from another company. Granted, the staff at Tandy are always super nice, and they can't help the quality of product that their company chooses to sell. I won't blame the staff that Tandy's corporate policies lack quality control. After all, the clerks are just doing their job. They can't help what the company chooses for supply.

I'm having problems getting a true round edge using my 1" Tandy Pro Strap End Punch. When I purchased this punch, I was under the impression that it created a true round edge. It does not! I have compared it with other tools at Tandy, and it is not a faulty punch, by the standards there. I cannot get a true round edge. In other words ... the top is rounded, but when it meets the side it steps! In other words ... the round edge is not a continuous round edge. What should I do?

I use Tandy's Contact Cement, but I make holsters. I apply cement to areas to be sewn around an hour before I sew, and this gives me a good solid base, and reassurance that the piece will hold together. I will warn you that the 'setup' time on the contact cement is only a minute or less. It goes on like rubber cement, but bonds once it touches leather.

No replies? Surely someone has some input in the 54 people who have viewed this thread.