RoosterShooter

26 views and no one has any advice?

This Boss has less than 2 hours on it, and is my newest one. I have never had any issues like this out of one, and don't know where to turn. This just started happening while I was finishing a piece just a few minutes ago. On the downstroke it works fine. On the upstroke there is a lot of resistance, and it will not allow the needle bar to come up. I CAN lift the presser foot without any issues. I took the Front cover off that houses the needle bar, Presser foot cam, etc .... and it works fine, and I can see where the cam and need bar are rubbing on the cover and meeting resistance. When I put the Front Cover back on ... the same thing happens. This makes me think something shifted! Did something go out of spec or adjustment? It worked fine up until a few minutes before completing the last piece! Any thoughts?

I've never seen them made with PVC. My Grandfather had one that was issued by the Kentucky State Police, and it was made from 9 oz. leather, wet molded, and then sealed with an acrylic finisher.

I'm making a Speed Loader case for my belt, and was wanting to know if any of you have done this before. I'm wanting a simple, easy pattern to hold a speed loader for my S&W 629 / 44 Magnum. Thanks

How soft are the holsters you're making? Mine are as hard as kydex when they're dried and finished! I don't know why they wouldn't be as safe.

I've noticed the plastic holster thing as well. I really don't understand the logic as a lot of people will pay $65 to $75 for a plastic holster instead of a leather holster for a few dollars more. I think that the firearm accessories market is highly 'fad' driven. We have a lot more gun owners in the US now, and a lot of them are pretty ignorant when it comes to quality.

I just use a 20 ton shop press with plates made to hold the molding foam in place. I place the molding foam on either side of the wet holster and mold and crank it down until it sandwiches out slightly. I then let it sit for 3 or 4 minutes so that the mold and press can migrate the air pockets out and move on.

Recently I've been having a 'Famine' period in my leather holster business. Some of you more seasoned makers have probably seen this before, but has it ever been this bad? Last year I couldn't keep up and had my books full, but this year is really, really slow. Is anyone else seeing this, or is it just in Kentucky?

OK. So you basically soak it until it's flimsy?

I usually soak my cowhide about 1 second per ounce / weight before wet molding. Using a 7 to 9 oz. horse hide .... how long should I soak it to get the best fit for wet molding from it? Also, can I dry horse in my oven the same as I do cowhide without any ill effects? Thanks

OK> Thanks everyone.

So, I've found a source that enables me to order Blue Guns and have them a lot faster than if I were to order from my standard vendor. The only downside is that the Blue Guns I can get faster are all of the 'Coated' variety. What's the difference, and why couldn't I use them in leather holster making? When I started making holsters I was instructed to get 'un-coated' blue guns, but never asked why.

That's what I was thinking Treed! I've had to turn down at least 12 orders on them because I can't find the mold anywhere! I'm going to get one made ... even if I have to borrow an XL Frame from someone and do it myself!

I'm having a devil of a time finding a mold, so I called Ring's and they said that they would make a particular mold if they found enough interest in the community for it. I would like to see them start making the S&W XL frame a.k.a. 500 S&W Magnum. Would you buy one of these for your shop if they had them available? If so, please help me. They log the requests whenever someone calls, and the guy said that after they get several calls on the same gun .... they move to acquire that gun for molding. Their phone number is Ring's Blue Guns (321) 951-0407 Thanks for your help!

You'll find that you will use 3 types, as many have said, if you do much leatherwork. 1) Standard Saddle Groover 2) Professional style Groover 3) Freehand Groover Before I ever use a freehand groover I trace my mark with a stylus marking tool with a tiny ball on the end.

I coat the 'skin side' of all of my IWB holsters with Angelus Water and Stain Repellent. I've never had any complaints, and I welcome them with my products.

What stitcher do you use? I'm thinking of upgrading and moving up from my Boss, and am considering all of my options.

Sweet Lord! 7-9 oz. horsehide would be a bear to cut! I only use 6 - 7 oz. on my IWB holster with a 3 oz. cowhide liner. I can't imagine trying to wet mold a 7-9 oz. horse holster that is line with a 6 - 7 oz. piece of horse. Talking about some strong hands and determination. :D I buy all of my horse fresh from Horween, and I can't imagine if it were laying around for a few months.

I'll state the obvious ... You don't want to lay leather directly on the oven rack! I always lay a piece of aluminum foil down so that the debris from the rack doesn't put 'grill marks' on my leather.

Did you shank these holsters? Nice rig!

We've all had them, and I guess it's my turn this time. I had a walk-in customer want a Velvet lined holster for her Customized Lady Smith. I insisted that the velvet wouldn't hold up, and talked her into a leather alternative. I normally only use 4 oz. inside of my 7 oz. leather for lining holsters, but she is insisting that it be 'soft' to the touch. What should I use? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

I used to order leather from Springfield Leather online, but found that when it arrived I received a 'B Grade' leather and was paying the Premium price. Now I only order directly from Hermann Oak, and couldn't be happier. I think Springfield orders all of their leather in B & C grade and charge the A grade price for it. Then there is the problem of it drying out from the time they receive it, and the time it sells. I have gotten some HO from Springfield that was a hit and miss. Most times I would get a good B grade hide, but there have been occasions where the hides that I received were so dry that powdered residue would fly around when I was cutting them. Springfield is a good company if you are going to pick it up, and I may be pickier than most. However, I believe you should get what you pay for. American Saddlery has a really good import leather they call Sho-Tan. It's a Mexican hide, and is quite a bit cheaper than HO. I have used it on occasion when customers don't require the premium leather and want to keep cost down. Tennessee Tannery has a really nice Pull Up / Latigo / Retan that I like to use on bags, saddlebags, and pouches. It's almost identical to Horween Chromexel, and works the same for half the price.

+2 on the template. I know of a certain Boy Scout who would be tickled to death if I were to make it for him when he completes "Eagle".

What stitcher do you use?

Back in the day I used a Dremel and Dremel Drill Press attachment. Kind of handy to have and very low profile. The bits that you can get for the dremel are the perfect size for hand stitching. http://www.dremel.com/en-us/attachments/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=220-01