RoosterShooter

Hidepounder .... I looked on Weaver Leather's website, and can't find the burnisher. Any ideas?

Nice to know since I paid $1500 for it a little over a month ago. If they can afford to put them on 'Sale' why can't they just reduced the price for good?

That's what I was thinking. I would just remove the thread from the machine needle.

You have a good point! No pun intended. I use the chisel point needle on my holsters, and could back out the thread, use it as a leather punch, and just hand sew those last few lines. That would be a lot more durable and aesthetically pleasing that double stitching the same hole.

This is my first machine, and now that I have it set up properly I am having a blast !!! Follow me here .... On my holsters I run 1 stitch line all the way around the area to be stitched, and then I run a single reinforcing line that terminates without meeting another stitch line. Does this make sense? What is the best way to terminate a start and finish that does not intersect another stitch? Basically ... a straight line. I can add a pic if needed.

The problem I have had in the past is that I cannot find a punch WIDE enough for my liking. The length of the punch is correct, but the width is too narrow. Know what I mean?

How did you cut your belt loops? Did you drill and cut or use a punch?

Thanks everyone.

Thanks PappyUSA. I never thought to use my trigger pull scale! That's a good tip. Chavez .... Follow the instructions of the manual plus a few steps. 1) Loop the thread around the Secondary Tensioner as you do on the Primary Tensioner. 2) Start turning BOTH of the tensioner wheels down 1/2 turn and the bobbin tension 1 full turn each test. 3) After you get a perfect stitch line using your settings ..... do one more 1/4 turn on both Tensioner Wheels & 1/2 turn on the bobbin, for good measure, and lock it down. .

I have some 5 oz. backed leather. Would that work best for straps? If not ... what would you suggest?

Thanks PappyUSA. Were you using a 250 needle?

Thanks Treckster ..... I tend to get a little worked up when I am working with tools, machinery, and parts. I always have to take a step back when I get to the point that I want to cuss and throw tools. Ben wasn't in this afternoon, but I spoke to another gentleman who walked me through an entirely different setup process that isn't listed in the manual. It was fairly close to what you mentioned. Another problem that I was having was that I was using horse butt to sew my test strips. You know as well as I do that horse butt is some of the most dense 'leather' on the planet, and it wasn't a good test subject. I switched to 8 oz. cowhide, adjusted my machine similar to what you mentioned, and all is well. I had perfect stitches in less than 15 minutes! As a side note ... If anyone chooses to sew horse butt with the standard 200 needle and 277 thread .... you need to either 'Up' the needle size to 250, or lower the thread size to 207. Furthermore, I had the BEST results with using a 200 Needle .... 277 thread on the needle thread .... and finally .... 207 on the bobbin thread! This gave a nice uniform appearance on the front side of the leather, and a more subtle appearance on the back. That darn horse butt is just some really hard stuff to sew !!! As for the paint coming off of the machine .... after talking with the gentleman at Tippmann I think it's probably best to just keep the machine I have at this time. Their 'coating' process isn't the area where they focus their attention, and I have access to powder coating materials, so I will break the machine down in my down time, and powder coat it to my liking.

ADMIN ... please delete this topic. I went a different route. Thanks.

Well, from reading through hours of internet topics, both on the forum and others, I have come to one conclusion. I think I'm going to send my BOSS back and use their '30 Day Money Back Guarantee'. For the money I paid for this machine it should be ready to go with minimal adjustment on my end. For the cost of what I paid for the Boss new I could have had a Techsew 3650HD which is an automatic machine. I think that until Tippmann starts paying more attention to what they send out the door they will have more and more complaints adding up. I'm going to call them this afternoon, and give them a chance to make it right with me. Mine seems to be poorly built, and I do not believe that for the money I paid I should have to worry with the things that I am. For example ... the paint is already chipping off of my machine in certain areas. Last night I rubbed against the frame while rethreading the machine, and my hand was covered in black paint. I looked where my hand rubbed and all I saw was bare aluminum.

I've been working on several different holster designs over the past 6 months and have finally settled on several that I think I will use. However, the problem is that I cannot find a happy medium between strap width and length using 7/8 oz. Herman Oak. I just can't seem to find the right strap for me. What do you cut your straps to? Thanks

The picture is of the bottom. Also, it's on 7 oz. horse hide. Does the material density affect the stitch?

I've searched this forum, and all over the net for a solution to my problem. I have tried everything mentioned, but nothing seems to fix my issue. I have adjusted the sewing thread tension and the bobbin tension both up and down, but I cannot find a happy medium. As you see in the picture ... the pressure foot tension is either applying pressure erratically or my stitches come out looking like a 'Feed Bag' stitch on the bottom. I am pulling my hair out trying to get this machine to sew an acceptable stitch, but nothing is working. Any suggestions before I send it back to Tippmann? This is a New machine by the way.

Thanks for the replies! I decided to " Buy once ... cry once" and I ended up ordering a Tippmann Boss. I had the opportunity to try one out at a local tack repair shop before I ordered mine. I think that the mobility and versatility of the Boss was the answer for me.

Will the Singer 211g151 sew 8 to 9 oz. Veg tan reliably using 277 or 346 thread? I will sometimes double up the leather on my holsters as well. Thanks.

Wrong forum ... sorry

Will the Singer 211G151 handle holster leather (8 - 9 oz. & sometimes doubled) without any issues? I know where one is at a local auction this afternoon, and didn't know if it was worth my time to look. Thanks. Forgot to mention that I use 277 and 346 thread. Thanks

I have been saddle stitching leather holsters and tack for a little over a year now. I am wanting a machine to up my production time, and cut down on my manual labor. Is a Tippman Boss the way to go? Are they worth the $1500 invested to get a new one? I am wanting a machine that is easy to operate and mobile in case I have to do an 'on site' repair. Being completely new to sewing machines ... will the Boss be easy to operate and learn in a short period of time?

OK. That worked. I just airbrushed #600 Acrylic Finish over top of it. Thanks.

It has been awhile since I talked to the folks at Angelus about using their Jet Black Dye on holsters. If I remember correctly ... can't you brush the leather, after drying, lightly with a soft cloth and denatured alcohol to take the dull, chalky look off? Thanks.

Where would I get something to use like the part that is on his 'arbor' of the press? It's the top piece that comes in contact with the foam.