RoosterShooter

I had already spoken to them, and they couldn't figure it out! I have a new machine now. Hopefully it's dialed in.

I checked all of the screws with Springfield this morning on the phone. It's not a loose screw. I'm sending it back to them.

This happened on it's own. I was sewing 2 pieces of leather, back to back, on a 20" run, made the turn, and was heading back the other way when it started knocking really loudly. I can feel the vibration in my foot on the pedal. I spoke to Springfield Leather this morning, and they can't figure out what's going on with it either. This particular machine has less than 2 hours on it at this time, and we're beginning to wonder if I didn't get a lemon. If I had more hours on the machine, I would think something was out of adjustment from use, but this is a brand new machine that I just recently switched to after selling my cowboy.

OK. I followed Al Bane's video online about checking the timing, and the machine is timed correctly. Now, for some unknown reason the machine is 'knocking' inside the Lower arm of the machine when I sew! This is getting frustrating. I don't recall having these issues with my Cowboy 3200 "Out of the Box". I'm getting to my wits end here.

I'll try that this evening, and get back in the AM. Thanks for giving me multiple things to check out. I'll update once I go through this list. Thanks again.

I have a 2 month old Cobra Class 4 that is skipping stitches every 30" to 31" on any material, any project, and every single time. I can be using cowhide, horsehide, Chromexel, etc .... It doesn't matter. I noticed the problem yesterday when I started sewing continuous stitches, whereas before I have always sewn 8" runs on holsters or small wallets. It does this every single time regardless of the material I am using. Every 30" to 31" it skips a stitch.

There is an upholstery shop close to me that is closing down, and I was going to list the machines here to see if any of them will fit my needs. I am always looking for a reasonable 'extra' machine that will sew garment leather, bags, and machines that will sew up to 2 pieces of 8 ounce saddle skirting. Will any of these machines work for leather? Singer: W107W3 , 107-W-1 , 112W115 , and a 251-2 And JUKI DDL-5550 I almost know the Juki is no good for my use, because they used it to sew large piece of canvas and it's not a walking foot machine. However, what about any of the Singers?

I understand that it's just simple business and economics. However, I find it hard to believe that the Cowboy Sewing machines are any more than a $400 machine that someone imports, works on the proper parts to get the machine running properly, and resells them at a substantial Mark-up. After all ... in today's day and time it's not hard to find out exactly WHERE these machines are being built. So, my point being ... if a $400 machine take a 25% tariff , that's only a $100 hike. That doesn't take into account the fact that these are not tariffs that compound. You pay them once, and you're done. I might just take a stab at one of these machines, on Alibaba, and see exactly what I get! After all, what do I have to lose? I have a reputable sewing machine repair shop, here locally, and it can't be any different than setting up a standard machine. It's just a leather machine. Right? Here's is an example. .... https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/PA335A-cylinder-bed-compound-feeding-purse_60737338066.html?spm=a2700.themePage.1023205882945.127.621a5d280gDoSh

I've also wondered how many machines they are holding prior to the tariffs, and using the tariffs as an excuse to raise their prices. A lot of companies will do this if they think their customers don't know any better. For instance, they'll use the 'Tariff' excuse for sales going forward , even through they were holding 40 machines prior to the Tariff's Taking affect. It's a way to gouge customers when you aren't selling as many machines as you'd like, and that one guy will buy one to pay for the profit margin of two machines being sold. What they don't realize is if they would lower their prices, or run a "Sale", they would sell 10 machines to the 2 or 3 that they sold at the higher price.

How far are you from Mission Viejo? I have a family member who can look at it for me, and ship for me .... Let me know.

OK thanks. I was kind of looking for something different than the CB3200. I owned one for quite a while, and used it for a solid 2 years before leaving it under a cover in my shop, due to slowing down on leatherwork. I sold the machine, due to inactivity, and ultimately regret doing it. However, I'm curious as to what other options are out there. One of the main reasons I'm kind of looking for suggestions OTHER than the Cowboy CB3200 is simply because of price. It seems they keep going up $200 every time I look at them, and even since I talked to Neel's Saddlery back in November ... they have gone up another $200 from the previous $1800. When I bought my first machine I paid $1500 shipped to my door, and that was back in 2015. That was around $1300 plus $200 for Freight! I guess what I'm trying to say is ... falling in line with the other models ... what makes the CB3200 worth $500 more than 4 years ago? After all, the Cobra Class 4s and other models haven't gone up nearly as much. I hope I'm making myself clear. As, what I'm trying to say is ... for me it's Perceived Value. I don't see the CB3200 worth more than a $1500 machine. While the Cobra has held it's price, pretty much stationary, since 2015. When I spoke the Neel's back in November I specifically asked if the price was going to go up any more, and he said he didn't know. He "might have to raise the price due to Trump's Trade Tariffs" ... as they affect the price of each machine that much.

The thickest part I would ever sew would be 3 pieces of 8 oz., and that would only be to attach a belt loop. On a regular basis I would only be sewing 2 pieces of 6-7 oz. using 277 nylon bonded thread.

I've been away for quite a while, and decided to get back into Leatherwork. What is the best machine available in the $2500 or Less category? I'll be mainly sewing holsters, but with the occasional leather bag or wallet. Thanks in advance.

Thanks Dwight. I guess I'll mock one up and see how she does. Thanks again.

Before I started ordering my leather in 10 Hide Lots, I ordered from Springfield and would often get the same results. Granted, they always made it right with me, but it's one of those questions "Why didn't they do it right the first time?" Again, they always made it right by me, but it was always another 4 days on returns and getting the right thing in. Then, I found out that Springfield Leather orders 'Tannery Run' hides from Hermann Oak, and they are often ... literally ... a 'C' or 'D' Grade Leather. Even though Springfield lists them as a "B" grade when they are actually a true "D".

I lost my template for IWB holster straps that was my "Dummy Tool" for measuring straps, and installed my last set yesterday. I don't have a measurement for IWB straps, and I have no way of knowing what length and width I used. I did a search on here, but came up empty handed. What length and width do you guys use? I was thinking it was 5 and something inches long by 7/8", but not sure.

I'm in need of a Needle & Thread size guide for my Cowboy 3200 along with different needle types for material. I need to repair a a couple of heavy duty canvas tarps, but need to find the correct needle size and thread for my application. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the replies. I also contacted Mound Tool, which is advertised as Osborne's Custom Die people. They wanted $250 for the same thing that TX Custom Dies said they would make for $125.

To give you guys an idea of what I'm looking for, I'm looking for a curved oblong punch that will cut a slot to allow a 1 5/16" slot like the one shown here.

I need a custom punch made for my application. Someone mentioned the name Bob Beard. Does anyone know how to get in contact with him, or someone else that makes custom punches?

Do I need to slow the motor down at all, or are the higher RPMs ok?

You didn't send a picture with your post so I don't know what you are referring to. Thanks

I was thinking about purchasing a couple electric burnishers the other night and ran across a video on Youtube where a guy was using his homemade model. He didn't tell how he made it, but just had pics. I have several old bench grinders that have 1/2" arbors on them, and I have several burnishers that I purchased from someone along the way. Pictured below is my burnisher, and , as stated above, my bench grinders have 1/2" arbors. What else do I need?

It's now Fixed thanks to Ryan Neel of Neel's Saddlery ! He spent a little while on the phone with me yesterday, on a Sunday, to get the issue resolved. Basically, what was happening is that the presser foot and presser foot lifter were out of spec, and he helped me make the proper adjustments on the presser foot, needle bar, and presser foot knob in order to get it into the proper operating specs. The 'finger' that split the auxilary tensioner was not falling down when the presser foot was lowered when using the thicker material. There wasn't sufficient pressure to lower it to the proper place when material was under the presser foot, and the needle bar and presser foot were out of adjustment. I had never sewn leather at the thickness of 3/8" until last week and this was where I was running into issues. It would do ok on the thinner material, but the thicker material was the problem. I now have a machine that will accept 1/2" thick material, as intended. Whereas, before I could only fit 3/8" material underneath the presser foot. All is working, and I'm back up and running today. I just thought I'd post a resolution to my issue. Have a good day!

I got your message yesterday Bob, but was busy with family so I didn't get to call you back in time. Thanks for calling me back. I did talk to Ryan Neel and he gave me a few points to check. I have narrowed it down to a part that is causing me issues, but don't know how to fix it! When material 3/8" or thicker is placed under the presser feet, and you put the presser foot knob BACK down in the sewing position, there is a finger that splits the auxilary tensioner. This 'finger' is staying in the UP position and splitting the discs on the Auxilary Tensioner. I have tried polishing the finger .... thinking maybe it was binding. However, the problem is that the components that hold this 'Finger' in place ARE NOT returning to the 'Down' position when I lower the Presser Foot Knob. In the Schematics of the manual it is listed as the "Knee Lifter Components". On Material Thinner than 3/8" it automatically returned to the 'Down' position when I lower the Knob, and the discs in the Auxilary Tensioner are NOT split .... allowing the Aux. Tensioner to return to putting tension on the thread while sewing. However .... in material 3/8" or Thicker .... the mechanism DOES NOT return to it's 'Down' position when I lower the Knob, and the discs on the Aux. Tensioner stay Split! Resulting in a very loose tension when I sew. So, How do I fix the machine so that the "Finger" splitting the Auxiliary Tensioner discs has enough tension to return to the 'Down' position when I lower the Presser Foot knob?