RoosterShooter

I am currently using 'DAP' Weldwood Contact Cement, but after I finish the tub I'm on I will be switching to Tandy's "EcoWeld" Contact Cement. They have several different types under the 'Eco" brand, but the ECOWELD works best in the tests I ran it though. You have to make sure it's tacky before you press the two pieces together. Then it has a 30 to 45 minute bond time. I like the 'DAP' but got sick, literally, of the fumes in it. So, I'm going to the ECOWELD sold by Tandy.

I'm making rugged outdoor use products that ranchers and woodsmen use. I'm thinking I might try the Obenauf's.

I've heard a lot of Amish people locally using Obenauf's LP. Would that be an option as long as I apply it sparingly? I don't want a limp leather, but one that retains it's stiffness.

What kind of finish do you use to give it a satin sheen,

I'm interested in the lustre or sheen of a good saddle. Not necessarily the 'weathered' appearance. I'm going for something like this .....

One of the reasons I want to get away from Neetsfoot oil COMPOUND is because it does contain petroleum distillates. If I'm working with it in my enclosed shop, in the winter, with a heater going I tend to get a little loopy after using it for several hours. I haven't been 100% happy with Neetsfoot Oil Compound as my product of choice. I guess that's a good sign in that I want to continualy evolve my products into something better. With that being said, the problem I am having is that I am wanting the final finish to be similar to what you see when you look at a professional english style saddle. I want the leather to 'Pop', and have a nice natural sheen to it, and retain that 'Leather' smell. I have found that with too much neetsfoot oil compound I tend to get the opposite. A dull, dark, chemical smelling leather that is loose and oily feeling. Even though I apply it sparingly, it tends to leave me unimpressed. I'm wondering if I shouldn't move to more traditional saddle style finishing materials. I've been using Angelus Neetsfoot Oil Compound and Lustre Cream, in that order, since mid-2012. I think I'm ready to step up in my game, and look for something better. Any advice?

I've been finishing a lot of my natural leather with Angelus Neetsfoot Oil Compound and then following up with Angelus Lustre Cream. I have settled for this finish , but am not completely satisfied. I use on Grade A Hermann Oak, and I know I can get the leather looking better. What would the best process be for giving that rich "saddle" appearance to the leather without oiling it to the point of losing it's form and shape ?

I understand. If it doesn't move soon I'll probably just keep it. I've had a few bites, but nothing solid.

What needle type is recommended for a Nylon to Leather sewing application where a piece of nylon webbing is sandwiched in between 2 pieces of leather on a Cowboy CB3200?

Will someone want it for $950 shipped?

$1000 shipped.

If you are seriously interested, I'm open to offers.

I have a "Like New" Tippmann Boss with very few hours on it. It comes with the following .... ~ Machine w/ extras as it comes from Tippmann. (Original Box Included) ~ 4 extra Bobbins ~ Material Guide Attachment (Never Installed or taken out of package) ~ 10 Pack of Extra Needles (Don't recall the exact size at this time) Paid around $1600 New with extras Asking $1150 Shipped inside the lower 48 . Located in Owensboro, KY Please post here and message with interests. I check the forums 2 or 3 times a day. Thanks for looking.

I got it fixed. I called Ryan Neel and Neels Sadlery and Harness, because someone told me he was a night owl. It was 9 PM Central here, and 10 PM Eastern where he is and he was wide awake. My Primary and Auxiliary Thread tension springs were on the opposite positions as to where they should be. In other words, the thinner spring of the two was on the Primary Tensioner and the thicker was on the Auxilary Tensioner. He had me put the thinner on the Aux., and the Thicker on the Primary, leave two threads showing on each nut, make sure the needle was at it's lowest position before reversing, and it's fixed! I would highly recommend Ryan Neel and Neel's Sadlery and Harness if you are looking for a CB3200. He is a great guy and offers top notch customer service. I also forgot to mention that he had be 'tweak' the pigtail in front of the Auxilary Tension area. I turned it downward, on a lower axis than the center line of the bar going through the Auxilary Tensioner. This ensures that the thread does not get pulled up past the bar on the auxilary tensioner. It doesn't take much. Just leave the tail on the pigtail pointing in the 4 O'clock position, and that should do it.

I've been practicing reverse on my CB3200 in my down time as I've always used the 'Poor Man's Reverse' when sewing. I notice that when I reverse the stitch it always 'Boogers' up the back of the piece and the stitching is all knotted up where the double stitch was placed. When I use the manual 'reverse' a.k.a. spinning the piece around to go the other direction, it doesn't do this. Only in Reverse on the machine! What could be the issue?

It's a brand new machine! I have sewn less than 6 hours on it.

No dice. This time ... when I put it in reverse. My needle thread got caught up in the Bobbin Shuttle and I had to clean out the rat's nest!

I'll try it and let you know.

These things only happen to me after everyone has gone home for the day! I just tried using my CB3200 in reverse. I was through my 23rd piece for the day where I had only been using the 'Poor Man's Reverse' out of pure habit. I placed the machine in reverse after the needle bar was at it's highest point. Pushed down on the pedal, the needle moved inside the hole and broke the needle thread! Any suggestions other than "Don't use reverse tonight"?

Fixed. I did exactly what msdeluca suggested via Ryan Neels and it fixed the issue. Tolerances are just a bit tight out of the box on the CB3200 and have to be relieved.

That makes sense. Mine was set up using a double stack 8 oz. Latigo. So, 16 oz of leather with a good looking stitch from the dealer. I'm using a 7 oz. on the top and a 4 oz. on the bottom. So, roughly 11 oz. Veg Tan with a soft 'hand' to it. That makes sense. I'll turn her down a tad and see if that fixes it. As always ... I can count on you for help Wizcrafts

I tried one thing before I turn in for the night. Being the 'New Guy' that I am to the Cowboy ... I had the manual lever in the UP position while trying it last! I lowered the manual lever and am now able to move the lever on the back slightly with my palm, but it's still under a whole lot of tension. There is still no way to lift it with the pedal.

Thanks Wizcrafts. I'll try your suggestions in the A.M. and get back. I've been burning the candle at both ends for the past few weeks and need to get sleep while I can. Thanks again.

This is a new machine, and I thought Toledo would have dialed it in better. Am I being too picky, or do you see something wrong as well?

I followed the chain and there is no resistance. If I remove the chain and try and push down on the bar with my hand it does not move. There is only a little 'play' in the bar with eyelets in it, but the presser foot doesn't budge. I can lift the presser foot with the manual lifter / lever, but it doesn't work when I try and use the pedal lifter.