JJs Leatherworks

Anyone know if tanglefoot traders is still operating? Tried phoning the 1-800 number and got a recording - maybe it just can't be called from Canada ... Tried sending an email to request info on placing an order but no response. Thanks in advance. JJ

Kevin, Thanks. That was the exact page I was looking for. Love this site. JJ

HI folks, Some time ago while looking at three piece sets of rivet setters for copper rivets, I came across a site with sets that had a custom option to have a brand or initial in a stamp that would leave a personalized imprint (almost like having a makers stamp on leather) on the dome of the rivet head. I know I was on this site when I saw it, but can't remember if it was a link from a post, one of the businesses that advertise at the top of the pages, or how I found them. Does anyone else know what it is I am talking about and who it is that makes/sells them? Thanks. JJ

I think it turned out pretty well. Nice job! What thickness of leather did you use for the tooling side and lining side? JJ

All of the rivets you have mentioned will hold together. What you might used depends on the project you are working on and the tools or setters at your disposal. What are you making that requires riveting? The two piece rivets are great and easy to use for most light to medium projects - the double cap ones are just for a more finished look from either side of the item. Tubular rivets are best set with a press of some kind (either hand or foot) as they require being 'forced' through the leather and then hitting a 'splash anivil' that splits and turns back the tube end of the rivet into the underside of the leather. They have to be sized (length) to be just slightly longer than the thickness of the leather to be riveted. For larger projects requiring maximum strength, I would normally make use of solid copper rivets. Hope this helps answer some of your questions. JJ

Unlike many others that have passed on their well wishes, I can totally relate, as I too have experienced complete loss of leather tools/shop in a house fire, in which nothing was saved, but no lives (human) were lost - 1979. Although many items can be easily replaced, things like photogaphs, personal items like diplomas and awards and years of accumulated handmade leather projects including first saddle were lost and cannot be replaced. We didn't have insurance at the time, so replacing all the tools I had acquired since starting the hobby as a pre-teen was not an option I even considered. It took about fifteen years, and following back surgery (almost twenty years ago) while recovering, some of my family wanted to find something for me to do to pass the time - they bought me a Tandy basic starter set - Ugh, what was I supposed to do with seven basic tools and a wooden mallet??? But, that wet my desire to get back into leatherwork, and at first chance I was buying tools, rolls of leather, finishes, ....., and continue to add to my collection to this day. Bottom line,you and your family are safe, keep your chin up, life goes on, and leatherwork is one of the best hobbies going - I know I am speaking to the converted here - but at first opportunity, I am sure you too will be replacing your collection that was lost, and then adding more. Wishing you all the best and looking forward to postings of newly completed projects. JJ

Christine, Turned out very nice. Congratulations! Where did you source that color of hair on material? What 'color' is the next horse going to be? JJ

Christine, Project sounds ambitioius. Doubled up 8 oz plus an overlay is going to give you pretty thick material for your cheek and browband. Where you have to double up the straps for buckles or other hardware to be attached with chicago screws or rivets, you will have lots of skiving to do to make it manageable. I seldom make headstalls with a total thickness of more than 12 oz, many are just single thickness 8 - 10 oz. Once your pieces are glued together, you will want to sand before doing the beveling of the edges (if your edges aren't even before you sand and you bevel first, as you sand, you lose some of the bevel). Many items, I do not sand until after they have been sewn, as sewing close to the edge with a machine will often cause small buldges in the edge by the needle holes and sanding afterwards, gives a nice smooth edge. Depending on the pattern and layout of your spots and proximity to your sew/stitch line, with the thickness of your finished straps, you may want to consider putting the spots on the top layer before assembly (will allow the prongs to clinch the material better). Not sure what is holding your overlay in place without seeing a pattern - will it be stitched as well? do the spots hold it in place? Just a few considerations for your headstall project. I hope I haven't added to your confusion. Some steps are cut and dried, but others, depending on the project can be altered. There is no one 100%correct order to do it. Looking forward to pictures when complete. JJ

On the flip side, as often being a parcel recipient and living in Canada, getting orders sent from the States is usually expensive. My preferred choice, unless it is a heavy item, is USPS. The rates and time required are often the best, and they incur the least amount of extra costs crossing the border. Delivered to our local post office and easy to check for possible damage per chance the box is abused, although that is seldom an issue. For heavy items, preferred carrier is FedEx - their rates will usually include any 'brokerage fees' and often any taxes due and have never had a damaged or lost parcel., and they deliver right to my door. I absolutely refuse to have items sent UPS - if that is your only way of shipping, I will find another seller. I have been ripped off for 'brokerage' and any other charge they can levy, they will never meet the promised shipping date, I live on a farm in rural Alberta and must provide my physical address for shipping but they will never deliver to my yard and instead drop it off at a depot in a nearby town, damage rate likely exceeds 50% and ....... , you get the picture! I purchase lots of merchandise, south of the border, whether it be e-Bay, Weaver, Leather Machine Co (Steve), and others and will continue to utilize USPS and FedEx. JJ

Gabriel, I agree with JustKate, and would bevel to depress the dark areas - basicly inverted carving. Nice pattern. Looking forward to seeing completed item. JJ

Try talking directly with the store. When I needed a blade ( the one that came with the splitter would not hold an edge, so it was kind of like warranty), they had no trouble getting me a replacement. Still wondering why you need a replacement. JJ

Christine, Buckles are on the outside. The large 'center section' should have your 'feature pattern' on it and will sit more or less on top of the boot facing forward. If your logo is small and round, it could go on both pieces, aroung the point they attach to the spurs and would be visible from all sides. JJ

Nyis, Should be able to get one at Tandy. I have. Why do you need a replacement? JJ

That's cool - what kind of guitar is it going on? JJ

I have no actual experience with either of these models, just have used a hand setter or hand press for spots to date. I too am considering a foot press and am leaning a bit towards the Weaver, mainly because of it's verstatility in doing much more than spots. In addition, last month received Weaver's quarterly newsletter/sales flyer in the mail and their foot press is on special until the end of March - it's not a big saving, but it all helps. There was a similar post by a member not very long ago and I would be curious if they decided and what they bought and how they like it so far. JJ