suzelle
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Posts posted by suzelle
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2 hours ago, VIIXCIV said:Thnk you I really appreciate the reply!
You are so welcome! Good luck with your machine, I just love the old Pfaff machines & enjoyed seeing your pictures! I'd love to own one like the one that you found, but would also be happy with a new Juki if I cannot find and older Pfaff like yours. I figure the feet and some of the extra parts I have collected could work for a Pfaff 335 too. Curious, did you get any other feet or binders or other goodies with your machine? If you did, pics please!!!
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You are very thorough! Great plan to learn how to time the machine before you get to sewing. There is always more to learn, right? By the way, all my parts came from Diamond, great Company!
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59 minutes ago, SPB said:I got the bobbin case out with some effort. After work today I'll look at the machine again.
It came with thread, a pack of needles, 4 bobbins, 2 shuttle (bobbin case), and two shuttle bearers.
Good, you got some stuff to actually sew with. Yay! Okay, can't wait to see it all come together!
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Pfaff-335-Instruction-Book-Old-Casting.pdf (uwe.net)
Above, Uwe had provided Pfaff info on oiling points. Great looking machine by the way!
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23 hours ago, SPB said:I'm new here and I've recently purchased my first "dirt cheap" sewing machine which seems to be called a "Shoe-Mending Machine". (See photo.)
(1) When writing about it, what is it called on this forum? I assume that I'll be having multiple posts about it as I learn. Does it have a formal name to describe it? There seem to be tons of YouTube channels that refer to it as the $115 leather sewing machine. It is a knock-off of an antique Singer.
(2) When it arrived, there seems to be a pool of oil in the bottom of the box. I assume this is "normal" for this ultra-low-budget machine.
Thanks,
SPB - Did you get it put together yet? If you got anything assembled, please post more pics! Would love to see how it's going! Also, can't wait to see your first stitches. Did you get some thread yet? Did it come with needles?
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14 minutes ago, fredk said:Be warned; Some of these need complete rebuilding and parts filed and machined to make them work
Yup! I'd plan on it being a project. For me, I like that sort of thing. Always working on something!
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Cool! Love the process - photos. You are spoiling us.
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This looks like so much fun, I'd buy one of these machines for sure. Even if you had to adjust it from time to time, I don't mind doing that. Good way to learn too, I suppose.
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1 hour ago, sojourner999 said:I am leaning to just using regular Lily White sewing machine oil for the consew. It has been good for others for years and I am reluctant to put some other liquid into where it will go through the wicks. I am not sure how the wicks would react to that. It may be much ado about nothing, but nevertheless, I won’t have to worry about any wick issues with lily white.
Well some oil or grease where you need it is better than none, right? You can always clean it up and put another type in there. I use grease from my big embroidery machines in my sewing machines, and the oil too. I don't know if the oil is "Lily White" but it's clear for sure. Have had Lily White, also there is another brand that the zoom spout oilers have in them, also clear. I'd use the TriFlow grease too on gears if I had it on hand. Have read lots of good about that stuff. Oh, and a few years ago I tried something else.... a Reddish oil used in Auto Industry called "Marvel Mystery Oil"... I mixed it with my Lily White oil. I try different stuff, not afraid to experiment. One thing I won't do though, WD-40.
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1 hour ago, Woehlk said:
"Please dont talk about that stupid machine again! Why didn't you just buy a new model???"You got Pfaffitis - no cure. Sorry!
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Found this from 2015
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Lovely little brass piece. Nicely done!
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On 3/21/2022 at 12:44 PM, keithski122 said:I don't have a juki but do have a Typical machine with this feature except I also have a switch which puts it on max foot lift.I love this feature, I do car upholstery and its fantastic when you come to intersecting seams with lots of bulk, hit the switch and it just climbs over the seam without banging into it and shortening the stitch length.I've now moved the switches to the top of the machine for extra clearance and so I don't accidently hit them while sewing.
Nice looking machine you have there Keithski! I did see the "Typical" brand out there, I wondered if people were liking them. I decided to go ahead and buy a new machine because my Consew 255RB does not have quite a high enough lift when going over those thick seams - Auto Upholstery. I'm doing this type of work most days now, when I have piping and foam and vinyl all crossing in the seams, I just do not have enough height and have to move over to a Co-worker's Juki machine for thickest sections. It's driving me nuts!!!! Co-workers are generous to share their machines, but I have to wait until they are doing something else to use their machine when I need it. I have my eye on a 1541S, but considering other brands too. Gravitating toward Juki though!
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14 hours ago, DanaStanley said:Thanks, this info helps. I think 69 thread is what I may want to use with this for lighter 2-5 oz leather wallets and wallet compartments. Good to know I can use 135 and a 22 needle though! I have a CB3200 Cyl Arm machine on order for the heavier stuff. Thanks for the response, and thank you too Suzelle!
Dana, so excited for you that you ordered the CB3200 Cylinder Arm! Can't wait to hear when it arrives!!!! Oh I'd love one too!
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9 hours ago, Gymnast said:I got a Singer 66, Singer 201 and a Pfaff 30, and they are all quite capable and durable household machines. But they are not that durable as industrial machines.
I have to agree with what Gymnast said about these machines. In my experience, they really are not industrial machines. I have owned all of the above mentioned machines and have to say, not only are there issues with tension & feeding when using thicker materials, but I found the stitch lengths to be quite limiting when moving to thicker threads. Also, the needle plate holes can be too small, adding to the problems. You run out of thread quick in the bobbin area if machine has a class 15 bobbin or approximate, which is another problem. The thickest threads I've been able to run in domestic machines was about a #69, poly bonded. This is also a good weight thread for home upholstery work. Curtains, couch cushions, that type of thing. The #69 thread may be thicker than you need for some household sewing, but it is what I have on hand and I have lots of it.
The thread I use most in my Juki Quilting (TL98) machines is a bit lighter, About #46.. used for sewing patches on uniforms, but also for drapery weight and home upholstery work. Not a full industrial, but stitch length is longer. These Juki machines do have an optional needle plate with a wider hole for thicker threads which I use often. Also, the Singer 20U does pretty well with #69 thread, but I have put a heavier tension spring in the machine to accomodate Industrial poly bonded thread.
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12 hours ago, koreric75 said:I really love my old singer 66, it was a treadle machine that i rescued from a shed/garage. I went through and oiled and everything worked pretty well, then decided i didn't want to treadle sew...lol, converted to a servo and just recently added a smaller speed reducer. I hated to a little, but this thing has such a beautiful stitch!
koreric175, that little Singer you have (I think the decal is called LOTUS?) is my favorite antique Singer domestic. I used to own one, it had a nice oak curved case. The one I had I'd pieced together to make a whole machine setup, found everything for it I could see in the manual and it was so fun to fix it up. It was such a beautiful machine and I did love the stitch quality too. Great machines!
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Nice work! Looking good & YOUNGER!
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6 hours ago, CowboyBob said:No,it's OK,that's a good idea using the lower cost feet like that & if it works for you that's great.Oh & always chime in whenever you want this board is all about everyones different ideas & experiences.That's how we learn from others.
Great info Cowboy Bob! I am glad you pointed out the differences. I had no clue myself what the reason was for the price differences. Probably most of what I am doing right now (mostly vinyl auto interiors) won't damage the cheap feet I purchased for my Industrials. However, I'm hoping to graduate into a nice cylinder arm machine eventually, mostly for leather work. I would not hesitate to purchase the feet you sell for a sewing cylinder arm machine I buy, old or new. That is if you have the feet I may need.
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Great thread, I did own a Singer 307G2. It was a beautiful machine and I am now sorry I sold it. But I got what I paid for it, so no $ lost.
Anyhow, nice to see you showing others how to make it work. The part I could not figure out was how to thread the bobbin.
So I couldn't use it. Just took up space. Now there is a good youtube video on how to thread one, wish I was able to find something on it back when I owned one. But hey, I have a Pfaff 138-6 now and I love that machine!
(44) Threading bobbin singer 307g2, 307 g2, 307 g 2, and other industrial sewing machines - YouTube
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Beautiful piece! I really like the handmade look of it, the not so perfect stitching and all! Curious to see what tools (for tooling) you used for this project. I'd like to begin doing some of this myself, starting with a few tools. I'm just not sure which ones to get. Do you mind sharing, if you can remember which ones you used? I had seen your boots and belt project too, must comment on the fact that your skill level has really grown in a very short period of time.
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Thank you Fred! I'll be getting some of these!
17 hours ago, fredk said:No problems. One uses a rod/bar setter with a dome shape in the end. I use a bar one size larger than the rivet, eg for a 6mm rivet head I use a 7mm setter
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Somehow this thread makes me feel better about the little bobbles I buy. LOL. Look at the photo I've attached, see the prices on these things? I had to get the whole box, I think it was $2 at a garage sale. The box had about 20 of these cards of button covers in it, included tools and all. Great for furniture upholstery jobs. I just could not resist!
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9 hours ago, johnmcnamara629 said:Hi Suzelle
Hmmm Sandpaper?
To me a bit of a risk any sort of abrasive dust getting into the hook to bobbin holder bearing race is not a nice thought.
Please try a bit of canvas. It works fine.John, Thank you! I like the Canvas Idea too, got plenty of that laying around here. I do appreciate you sharing your experience!
So, what do you think of using this material to stop bobbin spin? (Just an idea since I noticed fisherman were using it for their reels)
I agree, it's a bit of a risk (sandpaper) and I did worry about my hook. But the sandpaper is quite smooth, worn dorn with use already. You are right, Hirose hook isn't cheap! Thankfully I priced those out already and I don't have to replace my hook. At least not yet!!!!! Yes, keeping it oiled. Machine is oiled at proper levels. Self oiling, but I also drop some on wherever it needs.I buy the Lily white oil or equivalent and get it by the Quart. I have (3) Industrial Embroidery machines that like to drink oil. LOL.
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9 hours ago, Constabulary said:Okay Constabulary, thank you! That's exactly what I was hoping for, some clue as to what others are using.
I did find some in my stash (like Singer) but mine are newer, very flimsy. I ended up throwing them out. The one you show in photo looks much sturdier! I like those. Which machine are you having to use them in?
Got some of the Star ones ordered a while ago and they arrived a few days ago, still have to try them in the machine and will do that on Monday.
The felt idea, I like that!!!! Wow, that would have been a quick fix!!!!
Zipper madness!
in Suppliers
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YKK is major zipper manufacturer. Look that up, might help. YKK Heavy Duty.