bladegrinder

Thanks Handstitched, shoepatcher and dikman for the info. I feel confident on putting it in my shop now, just keep it oiled and covered good when not in use. As for upgrading to the 4500 I'm pretty sure that's what I'm going to do, it'll just be a few more tears added to the puddle of "buy once-cry once" and I'm sure it won't be to far in the future that I'll be glad I did. I can't remember many things I've bought with an upgrade that I regretted later. I sent Bob at Toledo an email yesterday regarding shipping to my house or picking up at a location about 35 miles away, and he replied first thing this morning. picking it up elsewhere is cheaper even with my time and gas, I live on a county maintained dirt road and when it rains, which is a lot now, the road can wash out pretty good and a shipper may deny delivery if it was washed out creating a shipping drama. Anyways...I'm looking to call Bob on Friday and discuss this purchase, I'll come back here to note how it went, thanks guys.

Hi everyone, I'm a knifemaker and have been hand stitching leather sheaths fro about 30 years, I've contemplated getting a machine several times. I retired last year, moved, built a new knife shop, and am now full time making knives. besides the pain in the fingers hand stitching it's becoming a time killer for me where now I'm having to build five or more sheaths at a time so I'm pretty much set on buying a machine now. After a lot of research and thinking about different machines I'm pretty set on the Cowboy 3500, I keep looking at the 4500 and for $300.00 more, that's not much more for the whole "cry once buy once" outlook, but for what I plan I really don't need a longer arm...yet. any comments or thoughts on the Cowboy 3500? I'm looking at buying from Toledo Industrial, so I'm hoping some folks here can answer a couple questions I have. first, how is it dealing with Toledo? I've only read good things. Second, and this is a big one, I don't really have room in my house for this, my shop is a 30' x 50' enclosed pole barn with concrete floor, metal walls and metal roof, it was professionally built so it's not what you think when you think "pole barn", it's rain tight but of course outdoor air circulates thru the roll up doors and roof vent. it's in North Florida so it's hot in the summer and can get kind of cold in the winter...for a few hours mostly on some days. I have some expensive machinery in there now and cover them with canvas painter tarps to protect from condensation and dust. would it be ok to keep this machine in my shop if I kept it wrapped and covered with bed sheets and or blankets to protect it from the elements? I maintain all my machines very carefully, keeping them clean and oiled and haven't had any problems yet. Here is a picture of the last hand stitched sheath I made, after this one I pretty much decided that's it, I want a machine! Here is the building I'm hoping to put it in...never mind the bent trees in the pic, their from hurricane Michael and are gone now.

I'd like access,thanks.

That was a great tutorial roys29.I've made a few standard belt hosters but not any pancake iwb holsters yet. do you have the rough side of the leather out on the side that would be against you? also,I've seen at least one company that makes these use horsehide instead of cowhide.do you see any advantage to using horsehide

Hi everyone,I make knives and make my sheaths.I've been making my sheaths for about 20 years and always bought my leather from a Tandy place about 25 miles away.I don't know if it's me or tandy's leather but it seems like I can't really find a good piece,or actually I always seem a little disappointed with it when I get home,better light or what I don't know,but lately I seem to be ending up with a few square feet that I don't think I can use.The higher quality leather they have in stock is always to thin or too thick.now I'm getting into carving,thats how I found this forum....So,my question is,I think I want to order my leather from someone else,maybe springfield.I got an e-mail from weaver for 25% off but in their discriptions or classes of leather,I actually couldn't figure out what it is I wanted,guess I should call them.what I have been using is veg. tanned shoulers and sides. any suggestions? Thanks, Steve.

Thanks twin oaks, I made up a few sample pieces and trying differant methods now. I will say I noticed a big differance in how the oil die went on,I think I'm sold on that.

First time I ever tried this dye and I'm not happy.it may work for some but I've decided it's not for me. anyway,I've got some fiebing oil dye,fiebing antique dye,resolene and bag cote comeing tomorrow.I have a couple questions if anyone can help,first,do I dampen the leather before I use the oil dye? what would be the best sealer to use the resolene or the bag cote,this will be for knife sheaths. The problem I have with the eco flo is I used super shene over it and I had some dye still rub off after it dryed,that's no good especially for a product that's going to get wet.I also noticed when the leather is pressed on from the inside the outside streches a little leaving a light spot,I restained that spot and the stain went thru the super sheen and made it look like it never happened.so now I'm thinking maybe I can put resolene over that sheath and that may cure my problem,am I right? I've been using fiebings spirit dyes for years and never had any problems except the occasional uneven dyeing but never any bleed off. Thanks for any help,Steve

hey everyone, Steve here.I'm from florida and have been making custom knives for around 23 years. I started making my own sheaths about 18 years ago. I've made a few holsters and other things in that time also but everything has been very basic with just simple border stamping and basket weave.I've decided it's time to change things up a bit.so I recently bought a swivel knife and am learning to use it, thats how I found this forum.it looks like I'll learn a lot here.I'm glad I found it. millerknives.com