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georgeandgracie

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Everything posted by georgeandgracie

  1. Having no leather needles for my Consew, I tried the leather- needle concept using my little Singer. There was no discernible benefit.
  2. I'm making little things - checkbook wallet, Field Notes case, lens case. With all the mistakes I'm making learning the fabric and the machine, I'm reluctant to make bigger items.
  3. Like this one on eBay, Wizcrafts? http://tinyurl.com/l3ryzec
  4. I am sewing waxed cotton, not leather, and I'm using a Consew 206RB-3 with which I'm not yet very familiar. To make a checkbook wallet, I am lining waxed cotton with wool fabric, sewing right sides together all around the piece except for a small area left unstitched for turning. After turning the right sides out, I have two layers sewn together, raw edges concealed between: one waxed cotton, one wool. Then I fold this assembly to make a pocket for the checkbook. This gives four layers: canvas, wool, wool, canvas. To hold the pocket in place, I want to edgestitch all around about 1/8 inch from the edge. Trouble is, the layers that result from folding don't stay in alignment once they go under the presser foot. The bottom half sort of squishes out to the right, such that when I turn the piece over the edgestitching on the bottom is nearly 1/4 inch from the edge. What can I do to keep this squishing from happening?
  5. Are zipper feet useful for edgestitching? (I have a lot of trouble with that.) Do they require a change in the needle plate below?
  6. Right now I'm sewing on waxed cotton fabric and waxed canvas. It's not leather, but I find out more relevant information here than anywhere else.
  7. My Consew 206RB-3 came with one foot - a walking foot with two toes and with teeth on the bottom. That is the limit of what I know about it. Is there literature anywhere about feet for this machine? I'd like to know what's available, how to identify each foot, how to tell if the foot I'm using isn't right for the job, and what IS right. Golly, I wish someone would make a how-to-use-it DVD for this machine. The manual is so lame.
  8. I broke down and bought a servo motor. With its knob set at or near the slowest position, I am MUCH happier.
  9. Does sewing waxed fabric (cotton or canvas) require needles designed for leather sewing? Janet
  10. So tell me, guys, would you have bought the Adler 367 for leather sewing? When I was asking the night before I had to make the decision, I got the impression that the Adler would be too fast. The seller himself is parting with it for that reason: it worked when he was doing sheepskin aprons for saddles, but not now that he has switched his focus to wallets and purses. My own intentions lean more toward the wallets-and-purses scenario.
  11. Now that I have this Consew, I can tell that I would be happier if it ran slower. It's not bad, but still a bit lively. I can't just turn the wheel by hand for finicky stitching - it's too stiff. What are the options?
  12. The "$ left over" part is important. I do have other things to buy - materials, thread, grommet setters, and such.
  13. The Adler 367 is still available because I bought the Consew.
  14. Without a doubt you are right. Plans are afoot already for the modification.
  15. Okay, I think you guys have given me the information I need. My husband is going to visit the Consew tomorrow, and if he has no qualms about it he'll probably buy it.
  16. Now that I've spoken with the seller, I've found out that it's not an Adler 67 that he is selling, it is an Adler 367. It's four years old and has fewer than 20 hours on it. It is "self-oiling". The seller wants $1500 for it. He paid $3500 for it new. Or fairly new - it had been a demo model when he got it. So: would I be better off with the Consew 206RB-3 at $695 or this Adler? Which one would be best running at low speeds, on heavy canvas or medium leather? Janet in Colorado
  17. I will try to find out the subclass number. Right now the seller is away from the telephone.
  18. I was on the verge (tomorrow) of purchasing a Consew 206RB for about $700 when I heard about an Adler 67 coming up for sale very soon, with a price of $1500. I am a bit conflicted, as I have heard so many good things about Adlers from my sewing machine man. Mostly I will be sewing heavy waxed canvas, but leather will get involved for straps and reinforcements. Are both machines equally suited to that sort of work, or is one definitely more desirable? The Adler seems a bit expensive, but both it and the owner are known to the sewing machine man, and he vouches for both. The machine has fewer than 20 hours on it. The Consew appears to be in good shape, was used for a backpack-making business, but it is out of town and I have not yet seen it. My husband was going to make a special trip to visit it tomorrow and, if it looked good, buy it. I hate to have him make the trip, and waste the seller's time, if I'm not pretty certain that it's what I want.
  19. These posts have me leaning toward the Osborn grommet setters.
  20. Thanks for your comment! I've had trouble with the Tandy setters, getting the roll off-center and mangled time after time. The Osborne system, with the long pointy tip, looks like it might get better results. Is that your experience?
  21. What are the pros and cons of these grommet-setting tools? C.S. Osborne plain washer grommet setter (the kind with the cone-shaped anvil) - each size grommet requires one of these plus a hole cutter Stimpson 405 grommet press - each size grommet requires a die set, but no cutter (if used with Stimpson self-cutting grommets I will probably use two grommet sizes: 0 and 1, and will not be setting grommets every day. This is for waxed canvas items to be sold in an Etsy shop. My husband may also use the tool for leather items.
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