Davm

Welcome- I like to make old time western holsters, spur leathers, etc. This is a good place.

I was just fooling around. I made a holster for a 1911 and two magazine pouches. Soaked in tea, put out in the Sun, give a coat of neatsfoot oil, then repeat a couple of times. You can get a really dark brown and the end product is sort of like latigo, or very suitable for outdoor use.

PastorBob: I don't know how to post photos but I'll try to explain a little more. Let's say the stamp has a shaft 1/4" diameter. As you do repetitive stamping the marks might be angled off angle do to human error. What you want to do is create a cross bar so you are more aware of the stamp's angle. You could take a small piece of wood, 1/2" by 1/2" and 4" long and in the middle- 2" from either end drill a 1/4" hole. Then slid the dowel over the shaft about 1" below the top and epoxy glue it in place at a cross angle to the stamp. Then, when you are doing repetitive stamping, you are more aware of the stamp's angle. The stamp essentially has a large T to the shaft- if that makes sense. If you epoxy glue- then one dowel is needed for each stamp. You could also make a removable dowel by sawing it lengthwise and using two small screws to attach to the shank. Tugadude- I like the plexiglass idea- I might try that for basket weave stamping- my lines always wander.

Thanks everyone for the help. On keeping the angle even from blow to blow. I took a square dowel, 1/2" x 1/2" and 4" long and drilled it in the middle for the diameter of the stamp's shaft, sawed it lengthwise and then use screws to tighten it on the stamp. You can remove the dowel and use it on different stamps. You tighten the dowel at the desired angle and it really helps me- I'm surprised Tandy or some other outfit hasn't manufactured such an item but it is pretty easy to make.

This is the "rope" I want to have that as a border, so edge, stitching, the "rope" then the background stamp for carved leather. What I tried to do was a push beader and then make slanted dents to create the 'rope" look but I don't like the results and I was wondering if anyone has done anything similar. Most border stamps are 3/16" or 1/4" wide, this "rope" would only be 1/8" or less in width.

I want to do some sort of a border. I make western style Holsters. On the edge, I want two parallel lines and between them I want to make a beaded effect. I have taken a micro-screwdriver and used that to create little squares but I want a "rope" or bead type effect. Is there a way or a stamp to do this? Thanks.

Okay- I tried making one myself. Doesn't work all that well so I am asking for help. There are some leather working tools that are "no brainers:, you really can't do it wrong. Other tools require some what of the artistic touch. On push beader- NOT FOR an edge but for parallel lines in a pattern- does it require some time to develop its use? My issues are the two lines won't have an equal depth and between the lines, I wanted sort of a rounded on top effect.

In any event the belt buckle goes over the back of the left hip and you use a thong in front- and all so that if you get thrown forward and the saddle horn hooks under the chaps- you aren't hanging there- the thong breaks???

Since leather is expensive, I'd make a prototype out of canvas or vinyl and tweak that to fit and then use it for a pattern. On those photos. As I understand it, there were photographers in New York City dressing up patrons in western garb for a photo so it is best to try to find a "trail" photo on folks out west on a horse. etc.

I know nothing about chaps so I am learning. I wondered why the belt buckle was in back, off hand I figured it ought to be in front. I also wondered why just a single thing was often seen in front. So. the deal is, the single thong in front is what a working cowboy would want in case he got thrown forward and the front of the chaps hooked over the saddle horn? Is that correct? On the sew on pockets, do they interfere were riding or are they "Okay"? It would be a convenience to have them. And on the fringe- I'll try the Plexiglas template with the one cut line. My problem with fringe is keeping each strand the same width as the others and not accidentally cutting off a strand at an angle. I can see that keeping everything flat under Plexiglas would be a huge help. How was the fringe attached? A separate piece sewn in? Thanks.

Good to know.

I thought you wanted to have a period type chaps, so on the zippers, probably not historically correct. On the fringe, always big arguments but I'd look at some period photos and copy the fringe. Cutting and sewing in the fringe will definately be the hardest part of the job.

Question, does the thickness vary with style, in other words, batwings fit pretty loose so thicker leather okay but shotguns fit close- might help if thinner.

That's not my understanding. That was one drawback of shotgun chaps- you had to take your boots off. If you want 19th Century, fringed shotguns are the way to go, batwings came around closer to or after 1900.

I'd say the main thing is to use really thin leather. There is some wiggle room on the spacing of the holes. I'd say stitching 22 loops might be daunting, I'd go with an "in and out type of method, probably one hole per bullet.

Well, whole new world. So far I've bought everything I use at a local Tandy however they don't have beader-creasing tools. What are a couple of the outfits you folks buy tools from that you like? Thanks.

A good reason to have a lot of friends.

Well last night I filed out a dowel and tried it to see how wide a bead I wanted, etc. Off hand the swivel knife cut creates a different bead than the line parallel to it however if the background stamp, etc. goes up to it- probably won't notice. Thanks to all for introducing me to this tool, I didn't know it existed.

Well I'm going to try yet another option. Make a two layer strap. On the outside, a hole only large enough for the post. On the inside a hole large enough for the spur button- with a slice going forward. Sew together. Now push post of Concho into the outside and run the screw through the larger hole in back and secure the Concho that now covers the entire circular area- no leather extending beyond the rim of the Concho. Now work the spur stud into the hole and you're done. I'll try it on some scrap leather to see if that works. If not, I'll do it the other way with the ladder back and extra piece of leather.

I am talking about the huge conchos right over the button on the spurs. I did a quick look on You Tube, etc. It seems one way is a loop back and then a second piece of leather that goes under this loop and has a hole for the button on the spur. Is that the only/most common way? Is there another method of a double layer of leather with a post on the concho that attaches to the top layer and then a hole on the inner leather layer for the button? Thanks.

Thanks- appreciate the help. I am really loving leather work. It is purely a hobby which has it's pluses and minuses. As a hobby you don't want to do the same thing over and over- no point. On the other hand you can go slow and take your time. My biggest worry as a hobby is running out of things to make. Holsters, belts, sheaths for knives, wallets, rifle scabbard, etc. Spur straps.

Thanks, I am going to practice on scrap leather and then ask more q's if I have them. Appreciate the help.

Thank you, when I bought the edge creaser- that's what I thought it was used for, as in making belts, etc. I didn't know there was a bead creaser- so something I'll get. Is there an assortment of bead widths you can get and if so, is one better for a beginner? Also I need some help on using it. Let's say I am making a holster, there will be rawhide wraps on the edge and then a line or cut to separate the border from the background stamp marks. With a beader I use dividers, etc. to mark out a line, then cut with a swivel knife and then use the beader to make a parallel line. 1. Does it make any difference to which side of the cut line I make the parallel line" If I am gong to use a bevel tool along the cut line and then the background stamping, then it would seem logical to make the parallel line closer to the edge, not closer to the carved area- if that makes sense. I realize you can probably do it either way but I'd like to know how the professionals do it and if they even bevel the line toward the background stamping. Thanks again.

Okay, leather is all carved, tooled and now the finish. I don't want a lot of contrast, just a little darker in the background areas. I tried using a camel hair brush but was dripping in areas not to be dyed (fortunately practice pieces). I am told I need to use a resist. Now I am a beginner so let me state what I think you do and then correct me. I apply a resist to the entire area and this slows the absorbing of the dye. Now liberally apply the dye but quickly wipe the leather, removing dye from the outermost areas but leaving it in the lower, background areas where it eventually dries. Then when dry- seal everything. Please let tell if this correct and what kind of a resist to use. Thanks very much.

I am revealing just how "green" I really am however I need to learn so THANKS to all. So, use dividers to mark line one from the edge. The edge on a holster is curved so I can't use a ruler. Now cut that line with a swivel knife. Next on the beader- I actually have that tool but never have used it. The beader has a sharp side, a curved underside, and then a less sharp side, so...assuming the leather is carded/wet put the sharp side in the cut line and push or drag so as to create a rounded bead on top and two parallel lines. Is that it or have I missed something? Again, thanks for the help. I really want to learn how to do it correctly. BTW- outstanding work