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ducjes

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Everything posted by ducjes

  1. Photos of both sets available here. I've had these for 3 years or so but never really used them. I figured I'd get them moved to a new home where they'll see some use. Vergez Blanchard #8 Set - 9 tooth and 2 tooth pricking iron Retail: $230 Price: $210 Vergez Blanchard #6 Set - 7 tooth and 2 tooth pricking iron Retail: $190 Price: $170 Shipping is included to the US. International adds an additional $15. Purchase both together for $360 and save $20.
  2. Wish I would have seen this a few months ago! I'm in Burnsville as well but just purchased a similar machine. Do you have anything else for sale?
  3. Ohio Travel Bag has done a smart move and decided to join the internet-era with a much improved website. You no longer need to download the 40mb PDF file and sort through all the pages to find what you're looking for. The new website has everything nicely grouped, allows searches, and easily allows you to checkout. They now include dimensions and country of origin among other things in the notes. Thanks for doing this, Ohio Travel Bag!
  4. Full image process here. Warning: Image album is 94 image of the entire process! So this is a bit of something different... I figured it warranted being posted here since it is made from an awesome pair of old shoes. The Backstory Someone on StyleForum messaged me and asked if I had ever made any wallets from old pairs of shoes. I told him I hadn't but I'd be willing to give it a shot but couldn't guarantee any results. He sent the shoes off and they arrived last night. Initially seeing the shoes, I didn't think I'd be able to make anything from them beyond a lanyard due to the limited space of "clean" shell. After thinking about it, I decided to get crafty and use anything I could. The Shoes He sent me a pair of size 7 vintage Alden 986 Leisure Handsewn #8 Shell Cordovan Loafers. The markings on the inside indicate these are from a year ending in 4. Based on their wear and use, I'd guess they are from either 1994. Could be 2004 or even earlier too -- it's just a guess. These had a ton of wear but are built like bricks. Deconstruction I wanted to check out the interior components so I ripped off the heel and started removing the uppers from the sole. It was cool to check out the steel shank and all the cork on the inside. The Process Luckily I have my cutting dies and 4 ton clicking press otherside this would have been significantly more difficult and messy. Removing the uppers was as easy as cutting along the bottom as close to the sole as I could with an Xacto blade. I messed around with a few different components for the card holder including using the folded portions of the upper near the top of where you put your foot in, but that ended up being way too thick so I had to rethink my plan. Burnishing, beveling and sanding were all the same process so that wasn't too difficult. The edges were tough because the shell had rolls in it from use but it ended up working out. Piercing all the holes and hand stitching was just like normal too -- actually probably easier because the shell was so soft. The result turned out a lot better than I expected. I think they are kind of a cool tribute to the Alden 986 and will allow the customer to have this repurposed item to use for many years to come. In terms of time, this took *significantly* longer than doing a normal card holder just because the deconstruction took awhile and making sure different parts were getting glued down properly. From start to finish, it probably took me around 2.5 hours. If I were to do it again in the future, it'd probably only take around 1.5 hours since I know a bit more of what I was doing this time. It was a fun side project -- maybe I can do something like this in the future.
  5. I thought I would put this up for other people to use. I frequently found myself Googling conversions for various things when conducting my business and figured I'd put together a full time Excel tool to have it all in one place to easily access. What can this tool do? Convert Thickness: Enter in ounces or mm to convert to the opposite metric in decimal and fractions Calculate Square Footage & Pricing: Enter in the length, height, quantity per piece, and pricing per square foot for your project to get a cost of your materials. Ex: Entering $15 per square foot for leather with dimensions of 8.5" x 3.5" for 1 piece shows you that you're using .2066 square feet and $3.10 in leather materials. Convert Currencies: Enter in a quantity and select the currency you're converting from and to. Utilizes current market rates for conversion. Refresh data to update. Ex: 300 EUR to USD = $327.84. Dimension conversion: Convert square feet to square meters or sq. m. to sq. ft. Ex: 20 square feet is equal to 1.86 square meters. Or .29 square meters is equal to 3.12 square feet. It is nothing earth shattering as all of this can be done quickly with Google, but I found myself doing it enough that it warranted being put in an Excel file that I keep on my Google Drive to access whenever I need to. Hope it helps someone else out! DOWNLOAD LINK HERE
  6. Check out Ponoko next time. Significantly cheaper and significantly faster. Guaranteed to get exactly what you want if you have some design experience.
  7. Cutting dies are amazing... but they can be a big initial investment. If you're not ready to jump into such a huge commitment, I think it is time for you to check out some acrylic templates. I have used this company prior to getting cutting dies made and still occasionally use them for mocking up more complex designs. They are very affordable in terms of what you get and the turn around time is fantastic. Company Details The company I use for acrylic templates is called Ponoko. From their website: What Can They Do? They offer a *ton* of different materials you can laser cut into. You can cut into various thicknesses and colors of acrylic, cardboard, wood, leather, metal and pretty much anything else you can think of. You need to have a pretty good understanding of Adobe Illustrator / Auto CAD / Inkscape (free) / CorelDraw for this to work out well. They have various "templates" where you can place your designs and they have specific directions on their website you need to follow to get everything to turn out correctly. You can do some awesome things like etching into the material to show it's dimensions or lines (in this case I used it show it was a 20mm width design as well as where the "fold" lines are). Pricing I got all these designs cut out into acrylic templates for $56.59 shipped. This was on the 31" x 15" piece of acrylic but they have smaller sizes too which cost less. The designs were cut out on 3mm thick clear acrylic. Turnaround Time This was the fifth order I've placed with them. The most recent order was placed October 23rd, went into production on October 26th, was shipped on October 30th and arrived on November 2nd. So roughly 10 days from order to delivery at my front door. Pretty wild. Outcome Here are a few of the templates I've had made which help in either deciding if I'm going to get cutting dies made out of the designs or for more one off designs. - Tall wallet - Two piece watch straps which I ended up turning into cutting dies. - NATO straps Final Thoughts As I said -- this is a good company to check out if you're still cutting out projects based off hand cut card board templates. This will definitely help your game! I know this sounds like a company shill post, but I'm 100% not affiliated with Ponoko and receive nothing from this post. I just think more people need to know about them since they're so affordable. Let me know if you have any questions!
  8. Looks great! I'll take it off your hands for $60.
  9. It depends on the project. I often use 4 ounce for exteriors and 2 - 3 ounce for interiors. All leathers and threads are chosen by the customer.
  10. Ignore all previous things in this thread. If you need assistance, contact Shelley Huard from The Tannery Row: shelleyhuard@thetanneryrow.com and the website is: http://www.thetanneryrow.com/
  11. Exterior is made from Japanese Brown Shell Cordovan. Interior is made out of Horween Burgundy Chromexcel Horsehide. 6 SPI with waxed linen thread. Has 6 card slots, 2 hidden slots and 1 main compartment. Very pleased with how it turned out.
  12. Clayton & Sons for this particular shell. Exterior is around 4.5 oz. Interior is around 1.5 oz. This is 6 SPI chosen by the customer. I can do 8 as well. They wanted a more casual look.
  13. I decided to document my process for making a hand stitched wallet a few nights ago. This is a fully handstitched 6 slot, 2 hidden slot custom bifold made from Clayton Navy Shell Cordovan and European Medium Brown Baby Calf. Just a warning, the album *is* 104 images in total... so I really do go into every single step. Let me know if you have any questions!
  14. I prefer a 4 - 5 oz exterior, 4 - 5 oz interior piece and then 2 - 3 oz for the card slots.
  15. Actual Minnesota nice. Awesome! I can't wait to see it!
  16. If you have to go all one weight for the entire thing, I recommend 4 oz. If you have options, 5 oz for the exterior, 4 oz for the interior piece and 2.5 oz for the slots.
  17. I've sold around 40+ of a design similar to this using the 'T' slot stitched into the interior and I've never had issues with the thread making an impression on the outer card slot. A key point to remember that I didn't include in the PDF is that you should make the groove deep enough on the inner 'T' slot for the thread to lay that it wouldn't touch the outer slot (without compromising the integrity of the inner slot).
  18. I've had a lot of fellow leatherworkers ask how you make a four slot bifold with minimal bulk while maintaining a slim and sleek profile. The question of the 'T' slot always comes up. I decided to put together a printable set of directions as well as a basic pattern you can cut out and use for trying it out. I would love to get any feedback on this as well as see any results. If you're still struggling with the concept, feel free to let me know and I can try to explain further. I hope this is of some help! 4-Slot Bifold Directions.pdf Additional Link to Google Drive PDF
  19. There are plenty of lists out there for people who just want to dabble with leathercraft. This isn't meant for the people who just want to "see if they like it", rather if they actually want to get into it as a serious side hobby or small business. You really only need an awl and thread to do leathercraft, but they often leave out a lot of the other pieces you never really think of if you want to get into it more seriously. This guide is meant to serve as a buying guide for tools, thread, and leather with affordable and expensive options. This guide is by no means meant to be an authority on these matters but is based on my experience of buying trial and error over the last year of leatherworking. If you spot any errors, you won't offend me if you point them out so they can be corrected. I intend this to be a living resource so if you have any recommendations, please feel free to contribute and I can add as necessary. Section 1: Tool Recommendations Section 2: Leather Suppliers Section 3: Thread Suppliers Section 4: Hardware Suppliers Section 4: Free/Paid Patterns Questions/comments/want to contribute? PM me or you can email me at guardedgoods at gmail.com --- Section 1: Tool Recommendations To be added. Need to rework layout. Here is an off-site link for the time being.--- Section 2: Leather Suppliers Company: Horween Leather Company Pricing / Sq. Foot: $8 - $100 Types of Leather: Chromexcel, Shell Cordovan, Latigo, Cavalier, Dublin, Essex Minimum Order Quantity: 1 side Offers Splitting: Not for small orders. Limited to what is in stock. Email: shelleyhuard@thetanneryrow.com Phone: 847-840-7647 Notes: Pricing varies depending on order quantity. Discounts with higher volume orders. What they offer varies highly on what they have in excess stock. Takes 2 - 6 weeks depending on what is in stock. --- Company: Wickett & Craig Pricing / Sq. Foot: $8+ Types of Leather: Skirting, Tooling, Harness, Bridle, Latigo Minimum Order Quantity: 1 side Offers Splitting: Yes Email: info@wickett-craig.com Phone: 1-800-Tannery Notes: Awesome to work with. Very helpful in getting exactly what you need, even if you're just getting one side. Offer lots of customization (flesh refinishing, stamping, splitting, etc). --- Company: Hermann Oak Pricing / Sq. Foot: $8+ Types of Leather: Skirting, Tooling, Harness, Bridle, Latigo Minimum Order Quantity: 5+ sides Offers Splitting: Yes Email: Here Phone: 1-800-325-7950 Notes: --- Company: Springfield Leather Company Pricing / Sq. Foot: Varies Types of Leather: Many types. Horween, Hermann Oak, Wickett & Craig, Exotics. Minimum Order Quantity: No Offers Splitting: No Email: Here Phone: 1-417-881-0223 Notes: Very easy to work with. They offer Horween and Hermann Oak leathers without the MOQ. --- Company: Maverick Leather Company Pricing / Sq. Foot: $1.75 - $6 / sq. foot Types of Leather: Horween Seconds and others Minimum Order Quantity: 1 side Offers Splitting: No Email: info@maverickleathercompany.com Phone: 707-792-2208 Notes: They offer a lot of Horween seconds at almost a quarter of the price. Great for starting out but you're limited to what they have in stock and you can't rely on repeat purchases. --- Company: Tandy Leather Pricing / Sq. Foot: Varies Types of Leather: Many. Mainly veg tan. Minimum Order Quantity: No Offers Splitting: No Email: tlfhelp@tandyleather.com Phone: 1-877 LEATHER Notes: Great for starting out. Cheap options and you don't need to commit to an entire side. --- Company: RJF Leather Pricing / Sq. Foot: Unsure Types of Leather: Vegetable Tanned, Latigo, Harness, English Bridle, European Bridle Minimum Order Quantity: 1 side Offers Splitting: No Email: fjlea@aol.com Phone: 607-742-8969 Notes: N/A --- Company: Goliger Leather Company Pricing / Sq. Foot: Varies Types of Leather: Skirting, Tooling Strap, Harness, Bridle, Latigo, Vegetable Tanned Minimum Order Quantity: 1 side Offers Splitting: No Email: service@goligerleather.com Phone: 800-423-2329 Notes: N/A --- Company: Brettuns Village Pricing / Sq. Foot: Varies Types of Leather: Calf, upholstery, vegetable tanned, various cowhide Minimum Order Quantity: 1 side Offers Splitting: No Email: leather@brettunsvillage.com Phone: 207-782-7863 Notes: N/A --- Company: Rojé Leather Pricing / Sq. Foot: Varies Types of Leather: Alligator, Caiman, Crocodile, Eel, Elephant, Lizard, Ostrich, Python, Shark, Stingray, Zebra Minimum Order Quantity: 1 side Offers Splitting: No Email: Here Phone: 1-800-810-1988 Notes: A large selection of exotic leathers. --- Company: The Ostrich Market Pricing / Sq. Foot: Varies Types of Leather: Alligator, Caiman, Lizard, Crocodile, Ostrich, Stingray Minimum Order Quantity: 1 side Offers Splitting: No Email: info@ostrichmarket.com Phone: 954-873-1957 Notes: A large selection of exotic leathers. --- Company: Zach White Leather Company Pricing / Sq. Foot: Varies Types of Leather: Bison, Bridle, Calf, Goat, Deer, Elk, Exotic, Fashion, Harness, Latigo, +more Minimum Order Quantity: 1 side Offers Splitting: No Email: Here Phone: 336-824-4488 Notes: N/A --- Section 3: Thread Suppliers Company: Maine Thread Company Pricing: $4.19 - $6.92 per 70 yard spool Type: Waxed Polycord Email: [Here](207-784-7770) Phone: 207-784-7770 Notes: This was my first supplier. They offer pretty good thread in various sizes in many colors. Great for starting out. --- Company: Royalwood Ltd. Pricing: $11.40 per 110+ yard spool (non-discount price) Type: Waxed Linen Thread Email: orders@royalwoodltd.com Phone: 1-800-526-1630 Notes: Offer discounts for orders over $100. They have really solid thread in many colors in many sizes. I recommend the 3-ply or 4-ply thread. --- Company: Abbey England (Tiger Thread) Pricing: Roughly $25 + international shipping per 546 yard spool Type: Ritza 25 Waxed Linen Tiger Thread Email: Here Phone: +44(0)1565 650343 Notes: I recommend the 0.6mm for small projects and 0.8mm for large projects. This is the best supplier I've found for Tiger Thread (aka Ritza 25 Thread). This is the best thread I've used and highly recommend it. You can get a 500 meter spool for about $40 shipped internationally from England to U.S. A U.S. supplier can be purchased here. --- Company: Fine Leatherworking (Fil Au Chinois Lin Câblé Pricing: $36 - $48 per 133 - 375 meter spool Type: Waxed Lin Cable Email: store@fineleatherworking.com Phone: 415-800-2978 Notes: You can order from the actual French company, Fil Au Chinois, though I've heard the pricing is quite expensive for international shipping. This is the thread Hermes uses and is considered the best thread for luxury goods. --- Company: Tandy Leather Company Pricing: $24 per spool Type: Waxed Thread Email: tlfhelp@tandyleather.com Phone: 1-877 LEATHER Notes: Tandy actually has pretty good thread for the price. Their color selection is lacking though. --- Section 4: Hardware Suppliers Company: Ohio Travel Bag Types of Hardware: Fasteners, clasps, handles, snaps, rivets, key rings, zippers, and more Minimum Order Quantity: $50 Email: info@ohiotravelbag.com Phone: 1-417-881-0223 Notes: Probably the best option for getting hardware. Great prices but semi-inconvenient for ordering. You have to go through the catalog and lookup item numbers to order. Requires signup for an account. One of the more inconvenient ones but you will get the best prices (in a lot of the cases I've seen, it is about half the other suppliers). --- Company: Springfield Leather Company Types of Hardware: Fasteners, clasps, handles, snaps, rivets, key rings, zippers, and more Minimum Order Quantity: No Email: Here Phone: 1-417-881-0223 Notes: They offer discounted prices if you have a business tax ID or you can sign up for their Gold Club. --- Company: Tandy Leather Company Types of Hardware: Fasteners, clasps, handles, snaps, rivets, key rings, zippers, and more Minimum Order Quantity: No Email: tlfhelp@tandyleather.com Phone: 1-877 LEATHER Notes: They offer discounted prices if you have a business tax ID or you can sign up for their Gold Club. --- Company: Buckle Guy Types of Hardware: Great selection of fasteners, clasps, handles, snaps, rivets, key rings, zippers, and more Minimum Order Quantity: No Email: Here Phone: 978-213-9989 Notes: They offer discounted prices with volume orders. --- Company: Ludlow Leather Supply Co. Types of Hardware: John James needles, John James awl blades, Stitching Clams Minimum Order Quantity: No Email: N/A Phone: 317-213-9437 Notes: Also offers Ritza 25 (Tiger) Thread. --- Section 5: Patterns (Free & Paid) Free Patterns Created by: Myself Type: 4-Slot Bifold Basic Pattern & Directions Download: Link Google Drive: Link Notes: Feel free to use this and distribute as you like! --- Paid Patterns Company: Armitage Leather Pricing: $16.59 Type: Messenger Bag, Wallet Card Holder Pack Notes: Includes patterns for printing and great YouTube instructional videos. --- Company: Big House Daddy Pricing: $20.00+ Type: Messenger Bags, Hats, Hand Bag, Shoulder Bag, Camera Case Notes: Includes downloadable PDF with instructions and printable patterns. --- Feel free to PM me about adding any additional suppliers.
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