Sovran81
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Everything posted by Sovran81
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To expand on what Louie was saying, thin leather bought is normally roll pressed which adds strength to the leather. Splitting it yourself stretches the leather or decompresses it since most small splitters require you to pull it through. On the other hand, bought leather tends to be less consistent then strands you split yourself. Using other hide than roo will greatly increase the hands on time of the leather before you even get to plaiting. Roo has very little stretch in it and makes a tight plait. Other types of hide have much more stretch and usually must be greased and stretched much more than roo. After this you have to resize the strand again since the stretchy bits tend to shrink in width. Veg tanned is the preferred tanning process for all leather used in whips. Roo hides are generally drum stuffed afterwards which adds to strength and greases it internally. I have used upholstery leather (chrome tanned) to make 12 plait whips and they have come out pretty nice after taking the time to grease and bevel the strands. They have held up longer than expected and kept the color well. BUT you wont be able to get the 1/8" strands to make the finer whips without breaking a lot of strands while plaiting. Its kinda one of those "pay me now or pay me later" things. Nothing sucks worse than getting near the end of the whip to break the last extra strand you added at the beginning just for broken strands. Forgot to say I split down to .8-1.3 mm depending on leather type.
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No, Well not more then the thickness of the strand. The width of the strand is calculated for the number of strands and the diameter of the core to provide correct core coverage at about 45* angle of crossed strands. Here are a couple formulas that will help. Diameter of the core X 4.5 / NS (number of strands)= Width per strand. Strands should be 1.8-2.0 times the length of the core. Hope this helps.
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We are wanting to start our business and while I have decent business sense, when it comes to the legalities and requirements to actually register a business a box of rocks has a better grip on reality. I cant afford to go to a business lawyer to ask these questions and get suggestions. I do offer my thanks to any and all that respond to this thread. We dont really plan on turning a profit for the first couple years. We are getting a business and resale license to allow us to make accounts with companies that will only deal with businesses and to take full advantage of deducting business expenses ranging from supplies, car, travel, communications and other business related expenses. I have read some of the other threads and links that posters supplied concerning business and feel we will fit in the category of business instead of hobby. What types of businesses are there that would apply as a small business and what are the differences? What does it take to register a business? How long does it take? How much does it cost? Feel free to add any other information that you think I might find useful, but please explain big words. LOL If I could have written this in crayon I would have.
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Thanks. I have read that page but since I have never owned a smart phone, I know nothing about them. Last thing I wanted to do was buy an expensive phone and find out it didnt work. I have heard you can just swap the sims card from phone to phone but once again I am not sure if I can swap from my present phone to an android. I have a lot to learn about these phones and the service.
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Thank you both. I have found 2 #2s and ordered them. Since I am pretty handy with tools I figured I can file shape one to make it larger and deeper.
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I am in need of a tool to round the edge of a belt or strap on 1-2 layers of 6-8 OZ leather. I am not close enough to anywhere that sells tools to try different ones out. If anyone could suggest an appropriate tool and possibly post a pic of the cut it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Thank you Bob and Wiz. I am pretty sure at this point 3/8 would be the thickest I would be sewing time to time but as has been stated before dont run the machine to its limit. As much as I would love a cylinder arm machine capable of sewing the real heavy stuff its currently out of budget. If I was to set this machine up with the heavier springs, could it still sew thinner material or would the springs have to be changed out depending on what was sewn? What brands and models are these clones you speak of?
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What is the leather capacity of this machine? I have found threads concerning the 256 but not alot on the 255. Also the needle and thread numbers are still very confusing to me. Is this machine capable of using the heavier and larger needle thread combos that are needed for 3/8- 7/16 of leather? Thanks for any info. What are the differences between this machine and the 206?
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Thanks Bruce. It sounds like a good deal. I dont have one of the new fangled "smart" phones, but have priced data packages. Now I just need to find a phone that Verizon and Square support. Verizon hasnt been too helpful in that regard.
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Years back the CC companies used to charge the vendor about 2% per transaction to accept their cards. Has this changed? Do you guys figure in the square fees and the CC fees into your price?
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Thanks Mike. I think I will have to get some and play with it.
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I got them from the last place I worked. Bought them at cost in a box of 100. While I was at lowes yesterday I checked on the price there. $1.50 for 5. Still not to bad for disposable use when doing a couple different glue ups.
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Love it. Where did you get the pattern? Or do you wish to share if its your own?
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Ryan something on ebay $8-11 per 50, 3-4 different lengths. Mcmaster-Carr twice as spendy but more options.
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A few questions to anyone that has used it. I know nothing about it. How stiff is it? Will it break if bent without being heated? is it sold in precut 1' x 1'. or can it be purchased by the linear foot?
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I use paper cups and acid brushes for soldering. You learn quickly how much glue to pour into the cup, The brushes are 20 for a buck.
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Making Medieval Armor From Beer Cans
Sovran81 replied to chancey77's topic in Historical Reenactment
LOL! Thats some funny stuff. I dont care who you are. -
Steam cleaning is done with heated high pressure water. Not only will it remove grease and grime it can blow loose paint off also. It usually leaves the metal hot enough so the remaining water evaporates so fast it doesnt rust. Just about any good size auto shop will have one and most truck shops have them also. It sucks trying to work on an engine when crud keeps falling inside the engine. I would repaint it or oil it as soon as possible after cleaning to prevent moisture in the air from beginning to rust it.
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My questions also. I like the idea but worry about transfer. Let us know how that test out please.
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The image was broken but I managed to open in a new tab though it was tiny. From what I can see it looks like a compass used for drafting. A graphite stick about 1/16" in diameter fit in the one I had.
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This is a common problem, more prevalent when braiding from a hook. It can be caused by many different things. I do a lot of braiding with paracord so I will start with that. All paracord is not the same even though it is listed as the same size and type. Even different colors made by the same manufacturer can vary in size and stiffness. The core strands can also vary in size which can affect the finished braid. Size and stiffness affect the braid more than one would think. Size needs no explanation. The stiffness will cause the folds of one color to not be as tight as the other color resulting in a twist. The other main cause of twist is pulling harder with one hand then the other. This causes one side to be tighter causing twist. To combat twist match material as much as possible. Braid from a vice and move the work in further as you work. you can wrap the braid with a rag or leather to help prevent marring. If you must braid from a hook ( I do on most of my braids up to 16 strand) try to keep both sides equally tight and watch the pattern. If you notice a twist beginning, pull the strands on that side toward you as you braid. That will help straighten the braid before it becomes a twist. Take breaks, tired muscles dont pull the same. The dominant side will always pull tighter.
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Use a brass brush with the drill. Steel wire can quickly eat into the steel. The brass will only remove the rust and not damage the underlying steel.
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It looks like a four strand round braid with a monkey fist. You can google both for instructions and find vids on youtube