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Posts posted by Halitech
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not to knock the double loop but if you really want to step it up, go with the Mexican round braid. I used to use the double loop a lot and found the Mexican is not any harder and looks a lot nicer imo
Chief has a good video series on youtube to show how it's done
I do like how you went with a contrasting color for the snap piece but I can see that rivet working itself loose pretty quickly and causing an issue. I would have Made it more in a T shape and sewn it in place
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looks much better with everything sewn in instead of the rivets. 2 small things I would do is 1. continue the stitching between the money holder and the card slot and 2. bevel the edges before burnishing.
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Have you checked with a fabric supply company in the area? They may have them and if not, may be able to point you somewhere you can get the size you want.
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You can get a large eyelet kit at places like walmart for a cheap price. I bought a kit with 10 eyelets and the tools for under 10.00. I think they were 1/2" holes if I remember right
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try it on some scrap first. Make sure you let the dye dry good first. Then apply a coat of super sheen and let that dry at least 12 hours. You may also want to apply a second coat and let that dry as well before doing the antique stain
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I just use a lighter and hold the flame just close enough that it melts without actually touching the tread.
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what I usually do if I'm using multiple stains or dyes is do my darkest colors first, apply a blocker like super sheen to what I've already dyed, then apply the lighter over everything. The super sheen acts as a resist and prevents the lighter from coloring over the black.
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I seldom tie anything off, I just back stitch a few, end both threads on the same side, cut them about 3/16" and melt them. Then hammer them flat
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typically I use water first then pure beeswax although some use gum trag
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wouldn't need a full sized one. I have a dremel work station that use on thick leather
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even as an after thought, you could have sewn it in place
might sound odd but you could use an awl blade in a drill press to punch your holes,just don't turn it on
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cool inner design with the coin pocket but I can see the flap letting coins to come out since it doesn't completely cover the opening. Also, I would have gone with much thinner leather to cut down on the bulk, it's going to get thick fast if you put any coins in it. Did you use anything in the ID window?
Stitching looks much better on this one but still needs the edges being burnished. I would also round the edges on the corners to keep them from getting banged up as bad. -
cool design but personally, using rivets instead of sewing the top flap on gives it a half thought out design since everything else is sewn.
stitching is also kind of rough. Did you use pricking irons or a stitching wheel to place them or just eyeballed it? Inside stitches look more evenly placed from the edge so maybe it was the angle of your awl going through the leather.
Edges don't look like they were burnished either -
rule of thumb I use is same sized slit /hole as the lace and for the 3 on the corners, go 1.5x the size of the lace but I only use slits as I have the chisels. the space is also the same size as the holes
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Jazzman
I know you probably won't read this and I'm sorry I was late in sending this but from my family to you and yours, it is always hard to see someone go that you have gotten to call friend, eve in this digital age. May your family find comfort that you will soon be in a better place then this mortal world and may all your carvings be flawless
Halitech
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thinner leather or dampen it slightly then bend it
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I'm just finishing a wallet where I used kangaroo for the inside slots so I'd be interested in knowing as well. The roo I'm using is veg tanned so I'm guessing I should be able to burnish it the same as cow hide
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I'm hoping that as well but wanted to ask just in case
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I'm not one for doing Sheridan/flower carving so I can't say much about it.
The whip stitch around the outer edge seems like it is uneven both in the distance from the edge and how far apart they are spaced.
The stitching holding the card slots on the right side seem to wander as well. Also, the card slots don't seem to line up consistently with the backing piece.
How is the coin pocket(?) connected to the left side? -
I have some 4-5 and 6-7 so will try that tonight and see how it turns out
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Thanks for the info. It doesn't look like it's that thick and not sure I have any that heavy but will see what I can come up with.
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Those look great. Just out of curiosity, what weight leather did you use? I just got 6 hand turned wooden pens from a guy in Aus and cases like these would be perfect to sell them in
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Your carving looks great. 2 things I would suggest is first, round the edges on the flap so they don't get banged up so bad. Second, to finish your edges, bevel them, then burnish. There is a good tut in the how do I do that section by hidepounder
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I'd probably have gone with about 2mm (1/8") in from the edge.
haven't worked with oil tanned so not sure what change you would need to do
Biker Wallet
in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
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I think she's talking about whatever it is behind the bike.
And this is just my opinion but a biker or roper wallet just doesn't work with using liner leather for the inner layers. For bifolds or pockets in a long wallet they are okay but this style should be all tooling leather.
Also, your edges don't look like they were burnished at all, something that will be hard with using the liner leather for the insides as it just doesn't burnish all that well.